Replacing a Windshield, Headliner and Console in a 64-1/2 through 68 Mustang - Continued

There are grooves running around the interior and exterior perimeters of the gasket which keep it in position. Rounsaville just pressed the new gaskets in place around the glass and then squeezed a rope into the gasket's exterior groove. This rope helps to keep the exterior groove wide open and when the rope is removed the gasket snaps in place around the pinchweld without having to pry on the new rubber.

Inserting the rope into the outer channel.

To help the glass slide into the opening, Rounsaville rubbed transmission fluid over the gasket. The fluid doesn't harm paint and can be cleaned off afterwards.

A light coat of transmission fluid will aid in removing the rope when we install the galss.

Before we installed the windshield (and the rear window as well), we replaced the bottom piece of stainless steel trim on both the front and back window opening. These pieces are difficult to install once the glass is in. We then pumped these areas full of a non-hardening bedding and glazing compound - One such compound is 3M 8509.

Sealing things up with glazing compound.

The rear window glass slipped in easily. When we removed the rope from the gasket, the window was seated around the frame.

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Sealing things up with glazing compound.

Pulling the rope seats the windshield.

To seal the glass in the openings, we pumped bedding compound underneath and around the perimeter of the gasket. This was one of the crucial steps where a glazier's experience pays off. Because newer cars have such strict tolerances, a less experienced glass installer might assume the gasket in this older car was loose or just bad. As a result, he may fail to thoroughly caulk the glass, creating a virtual trough which will catch water and direct it inside the car during the first rain shower. The flexible caulk used in this instance allows the glass to move slightly within the openings as pressure changes inside the car.

Adding caulk.

After reinstalling the trim, I drove the Mustang outside and discovered I could see clearly without distortion. No haze, no wiper grooves, no craning my neck to find a good spot in the windshield. Now if I could just do something about the scratches on my glasses, everything would be perfect.

The finished windshield.

On to the console.

A little known Mustang option was an upper (ceiling-mounted) console. Available only on the 1967 and 1968 models as part of the Interior Decor group, it nearly spanned the entire length of the roof. It was manufactured in two sizes — a short one for fastbacks, and a longer one for hardtops. Having obtained one a few years ago, I decided this would be an opportune moment to blow off the dust and get it installed.

The console covers the area that is typically occupied by the dome light. It replaces the dome light with a pair of map lights that illuminate the front seats. By rerouting the dome light wire, I figured we would be able to get the console hooked up and operational in no time.

OEM overhead console.

The console, however, needed a little restoration work prior to installation. One of the two push-button switches that operate the lights had shed its chrome and one of the switches also had deteriorated.

At a local hobby shop I picked up a chrome foil product called Bare-Metal that's made for applying a chrome-like finish to model parts. I figured it would be perfect for this or any other chromed plastic pieces that might be hard to find in the restoration aftermarket. This stuff can be burnished onto nearly any surface configuration.

After removing and thoroughly cleaning the button with soap and water, I cut a small section of foil to cover the visible surface. I cut a rectangle only slightly larger than the button itself.

The product is self-adhesive. I simply pulled the foil off the backing sheet, applied it to the button and rubbed it with a clean piece of cloth. It conformed to the beveled edges of the on-off button with ease. The finished button looks as good as new.

Burnishing the foil onto the button.

In repairing the switches, I noted the originals were a plunger-style with an exterior spring that could easily wear out or become disengaged. Searching through various automotive supply stores, I eventually found the perfect replacement — the factory couldn't have dreamed of a better fit. This push-button switch, purchased from a NAPA auto parts shop, fit in the stock switch hole and was the perfect height to support the base of the console button. It worked so well I decided to replace both switches. The only modification required was to shave off some of the flange, so it would fit into the rectangular hole of the console button.

Original plunger style switch.

Our new replacement switch.

Modifying the switch apron to give us a good fit.

I installed a locking washer and nut, tightened the assembly, and the new switch was in place. After cutting the wires to the original switch, I transferred them to the tabs on the new switch and then coated the exposed ends of the wires with hot glue to protect and weatherize them.

Installing the new switch.

A daub of hot glue adds a little protection to the attached wires.

Now the console was ready for installation, however, I encountered a problem that threatened to stall the project. Instead of spanning the length of the roof, the console stopped a few inches shy of the rear-view mirror. Much later, while thumbing through a Mustangs Unlimited catalog, I learned that there is a special bracket that bridges this gap and supports the front end of the console. Not knowing that at the time, I decided that the best plan would be to improvise.

To support the upper console while I worked, I used a piece of wood that was cut to fit the distance between the transmission tunnel and the console. The console wasn't very heavy, not more than a pound or two, and the wooden support worked fine.

I had noticed, during the headliner replacement process, there was a hole and two indentations in the rear portion of the roof-support near the backglass. I assumed this was designed for console installations, so I re-routed the dome light wiring through the hole and made a mental note of the location of the two indentations.

By feeling around on the headliner, I easily located the two indentations on the rear roof support. I poked holes through the headliner with a nail and drilled them out for the sheetmetal screws that hold the console in place. That was the easy part.

Next, to shore up the front end, I hit upon the idea of supporting it from the middle. Since the spine of the upper console is a thick metal plate, I figured I could drill through this and into the central roof support, and this would be enough to buttress it.

Working with a drill for several minutes (until my arms really hurt), I finally penetrated the thick steel of the support. Placing a sheet-metal screw to either side of the aluminum center section of the console, I found that it drew up nicely against the headliner.

As a final step, I cut a small hole in the headliner to provide clearance for the back sides of the map lights, but discovered that they touched the roof of the car. So I cut out a small square of half-inch-thick foam and stuck it behind the map lights. This cured the problem and helped to snug up the front portion of the console.

The finished product is in place, and the light switches now have much firmer action. Furthermore, unless you look closely you can't tell the difference between the original button and the one that's been refurbished.

The finished console installed into place.