SCG CLASSIC CAR FORUM ARCHIVES
SCG Classic Car Forums Archive - Page 9
'66 Ford Mustang Rebuilding
Posted: 2007-01-12 20:15:02.0
Posted by: taysel
My friend has an old '66 Ford Mustang that he's working on rebuilding. Its completely trashed, and is pretty much just (part of) a body. What is the best book for a person who doesn't really like to read to help them with rebuilding their car? I've looked and found some popular (and expensive) books, but from your point of view, whats the best? Should I get a car specific book, or is there a general book that will handle it all? Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks :)
'66 Ford Mustang Rebuilding
Posted: 2007-01-13 04:21:20.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
If your friend doesn't like to read, locate a video on the internet. There have been a lot of videos made of restorations and there was a TV show 20 years ago about restoring a Mustang. Otherwise, follow all our articles on restoring the T-Bird and you'll get everything you need in terms of general knowledge. If the Mustang's body is rusted out, tell your friend to find another one. It's a monocoque body and is structural, so patching rust won't make it.
Drive Train Noise
Posted: 2007-01-15 11:30:01.0
Posted by: dualpoint
I recently bought a 1998 ford F250 and noticed at 35 to 45 mph a high pitched whine. It goes away at 45 mph and then is back at around 60 mph and higher. It is not a screaming sound, more like a high note hum. When I back off the gas it goes away. I think some noise in the automatic trans., or rear end bearing, or gear mesh problem. Thanks, TC
Drive Train Noise
Posted: 2007-01-15 11:53:45.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Since we don't handle newer vehicle questions we'll forward your question to Dr. Crankshaft's weekly column in the Journal Register newspapers. You'll be able to search www.phillycarsearch. com for the column and an answer typically shows up within 2 weeks.
DISTRIBUTOR
Posted: 2007-01-15 15:11:44.0
Posted by: HEY KID
After cleaning out my fathers garage I found a DELCO-REMY distributor. Model number 1110814. Serial # 9B11. I was given the following description MADE FOR A 1937 - 1940 FORD ORIGINAL FLATHEAD V-8 DISTRIBUTOR. I was also told this distributor is for early production for 1949 Oldsmobiles. Is there some one who can advise me the vehicle this distributor is for? A photo is attached. I can send more pictures if necessay. THANKS.
DISTRIBUTOR
Posted: 2007-01-16 01:16:38.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Hey Kid,
Google is my buddy ;-)
The ONLY hit from the web:
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/544.cfm
Right here at Second Chance Garage. 49 Oldsmobile is the application.
Beginner needing help finding ignition coil
Posted: 2007-01-16 13:02:09.0
Posted by: Mr. Anderson
Inherited 1955 Chevrolet Fleetline Deluxe.
Has anyone come across any website selling ignition switch, ignition wiring, and coil for this model.
If so please forward the sites.
Thank you
Beginner needing help finding ignition coil
Posted: 2007-01-17 03:55:33.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Search for restoration suppliers for mid-50s Chevy's. There should be a bunch of them and they would all sell such common parts. Any decent auto parts store will also be able to order these parts, at least switches, coils, points and other such parts that were common to Chevy products for 15 years or so.
How to free rusted brake shoes from Drums?
Posted: 2007-01-16 19:07:06.0
Posted by: SirScott
I have a 1951 Frazer Vagabond my dad left me. It has been sitting in storage for about 10 years. I went to move it but none of the wheels would roll. Apparently the brake shoes are rusted to the drums. I tried freeing up one of the front wheels be backing off the cams and loosening the axle nut a little. I can wiggle the drum around a just a little by hand, but I can't get it to turn or come off.
Any suggestions on freeing up the drums without destroying the drums and shoes? Looking through the little inspection window, the lining looks pretty good, but stuck to the drum.
How to free rusted brake shoes from Drums?
Posted: 2007-01-17 03:53:27.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
You should be able to grind off the heads of the shoe hold-down pins where they come through the brake backing plate (usually about the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. Once these are ground off (or drilled out) you can pull the drum and shoe and spring assemblies right off the backing plate and the whole mess will end up on the floor.
How to free rusted brake shoes from Drums?
Posted: 2007-01-24 07:33:52.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Why didn't I of that. Simple and effective. I struggled with a stuck drum a while back until one of the pin broke. Same outcome, just more effort. ;-)
55 T-Bird 12 volt to 6 volt dropping resistors
Posted: 2007-01-17 15:11:29.0
Posted by: 1235daniel
I am converting a 55 T-Bird 6 volt system to a 12 volt system. Can anyone let me know where I can get 12 volt to 6 volt dropping resistors to keep the electric seats, gauges and power window motors working at 6 volts. Thanks for the help.
55 T-Bird 12 volt to 6 volt dropping resistors
Posted: 2007-01-18 04:37:52.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The dropping resistors are available through JC Whitney online or their catalog. They have two wattage ranges to accomodate the draw. The larger one will handle the seat and window motors just fine.
55 T-Bird 12 volt to 6 volt dropping resistors
Posted: 2007-01-19 17:24:32.0
Posted by: werace
O'Reilly Auto Parts store carries them also.
55 T-Bird 12 volt to 6 volt dropping resistors
Posted: 2007-01-18 14:16:00.0
Posted by: 1235daniel
Thanks for the heads up!
1952 ford pickup
Posted: 2007-01-20 17:13:28.0
Posted by: F1
anyone install seatbelt/shoulderbelt in '52 F1...?
1952 ford pickup
Posted: 2007-02-03 05:44:42.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
No, but we're planning to do so on our project F1 eventually. We'll have to weld in thick plates on the floor for the belt mounts, of course, but the shoulder mount will pose a bigger problem. We'll probably weld in a strong bracket to the rear corners of the body, but since it's only sheet metal we'll need to spread the load over a large area. It's got to hold in the event of a crash at, say, 40 mph, which means it's got to be designed to hold a 200-lb man without tearing loose. Therefore, it's got to withstand (100lb X 60 ft/sec = 6000 lb/ft/sec of force). We'd guess at this point that the inner brace would pretty much have to be about the same size as the cab rear corner.
Muffler - Which end is which?
Posted: 2007-01-21 22:04:22.0
Posted by: Tony
The muffler that just purchased for my old truck doesn't appear to have any markings indicating which end is which? Is it safe to assume then that it can be installed either way or is there some way that I can determine which end is the inlet/outlet?
Muffler - Which end is which?
Posted: 2007-01-24 03:52:43.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
If your muffler isn't marked in any way it's probably a "universal" type that can be mounted either way to accomodate your truck's exhaust routing.
Hub help
Posted: 2007-01-29 03:58:44.0
Posted by: 63Sean
I have a 1963 Ford Galaxie and I'm doing a brake overhaul. I've discovered that one of my hubs is unusable at this point, and I need help locating a suitable replacement. Any advice/suggestions would be appreciated.
Thank you,
sean
Hub help
Posted: 2007-02-01 11:58:54.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Sean,
Is the hub damaged so that a bearing cannot be seated? Maybe you could have it welded and machined to the proper size? Or maybe it can be cut to accept the next size larger bearing?
If neither is an alternative, try the www.galaxieclub.com web site. Maybe someone there has hubs for sale or trade.
Just in case you meant the drum is out-of-round, there are usually drums for sale on ebay.
1956 3100 p/u
Posted: 2007-01-29 15:08:14.0
Posted by: redbird55
I currently have a 56 chevy p/u with a 235 CI engine and a hydramatic trans. I am having some problems with trans and would like to change to a later model such as 700 R4 trans. Will it bolt up to my 235 engine?
1956 3100 p/u
Posted: 2007-02-03 05:39:01.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
This is always a tough question to answer, as engines and transmissions changed slightly over time. However, it's pretty likely that a 50s-era transmission will bolt up to the engine. The best ways to proceed are: 1) consult a Hollinger Exchange Manual at a library and see if you can find inwhich models various parts were used, or 2) make a template of your transmission mounting bolt pattern and place it against the 700R4 transmission (or ask the transmission shop/store to make a template for you if you don't already have access to the 700R4.
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