SCG Classic Car Forums Archive - Page 8

fuel requirements
Posted: 2006-12-28 09:41:54.0
Posted by: spidermann
Hello, Great site !

I just purchased a 1974 Nova Custom 350 4bbl. The glove box indicates 91 octane no lead, low lead. This Chevy was built at the Van Nyse, Ca. plant and has all the smog stuff. The EGR is disconnected right now, though. I have read that the 87 regular fuel ( at the pumps now ) is the same as the 91 fuel back in 1974. I belive the v8 is the Lm1, with 8:5.1 compression. I do not hear ping with 87 reg, however , I do not want to wreck a good motor. What is the right thing to do ?

fuel requirements
Posted: 2006-12-30 13:40:29.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Hello spidermann,

I have a '70 pickup with a 350 four barrel. It doesn't like 87 octane at all. I have been running the mid grade 89 and it doesn't rattle with that. If your's will run OK on 87 octane run that. Believe me with the cost of fuel, I would.

1950 ford bussiness coupe
Posted: 2007-01-01 19:26:29.0
Posted by: spike
I have a 50 ford bussiness coupe I believe(not a sport coupe. My back windows a seal and the hood prop is on the right side of the hood not in the middle like the others I have seen also the others back windows do open . Mine is the 2994 car produced and came from atlanta. Can anyone help me with the body style I believe it ti be (D72C) but not sure. Where can i find it on the car. Just the vin# is on the plate.
thanks
spike

1950 ford bussiness coupe
Posted: 2007-01-03 05:56:14.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The patent plate (I've included a sample patent plate) is located on the front face on the top of the cowl panel. The Business Coupe, Deluxe was a D72C for the first half of 1950 and 72C for the second half. Hope this helps.

1950 ford bussiness coupe
Posted: 2007-01-02 03:41:51.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Howdy Spike, take a look at the first item in the table on this page:

http://www.wingedmessenger.net/Tech.htm

Could getting the information really be as simple as dialing an 800 number? Let us know if that works.

Sorry, I can't help you with tag location on the car. Maybe someone else will see your post and actually know where to look.

Regards,

Shannon

coil problem
Posted: 2007-01-05 19:24:46.0
Posted by: oldman
I just put a new coil on my Dura SparkII system, I also just installed the syatem, everything checks out ok BUT the coil tower is arcking to the + and - terminals, I have a new 8mm coil wire and used the grease, tried 2 other coils with the same results but can use the old TFI coil and it works. Any ideas on what is wrong and how to fix it?

coil problem
Posted: 2007-01-12 06:01:05.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Howdy Oldman,

Contaminated dielectric grease could be the problem. Inspect the boot under a strong light. Look for carbon tracks through the grease. Whether or not you find the tracks, clean the boot and tower thoroughly and regrease them, keeping all the grease inside the tower and the boot. If that doesn't work you haven't lost anything but a few minutes.

You used a new coil wire but it could have a problem too. Try another one if you haven't already done so.

Why would the TFI coil not leak but three others do? The only explanation I can come up with is that the TFI coil has weaker spark than the others. Electricity is like water; it will always take the path of least resistance. But, there has to be an "arc-over" potential to that path of least resistance. If the arc-over potential here is 20KV and the TFI coil is making less than that, it doesn't arc. The higher the coil output the more likely you are to find current leaks.

Regards,

Shannon DeWolfe

Bumper Removal for 61 Electra Buick
Posted: 2007-01-06 13:53:38.0
Posted by: Plutonium
Having a hard time removing the front bumper on my 61 Electra. Bolts are loose but spin now that they are. Any suggestions?

Don S.

Bumper Removal for 61 Electra Buick
Posted: 2007-01-07 05:10:40.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
If the bolts are loose but spinning, your choices are few. You could heat the nuts to red with a torch to loosen them on the threads but the problem is holding the shaft while you turn. If you can get a nut splitter on them, that's the best way to go. Otherwise, grind the nuts off the shaft.

Gramps has a new project...52 Chev PU 5 Window!
Posted: 2007-01-08 20:07:16.0
Posted by: werace
Hi,In Nov 2006 I bought a 1952 Chev 5 window pickup with the 216 engine 4
speed.I live in Alexandria, Mn. and thought this would be a nice winter
project since I retired as a locomotive Engineer.
I had it running and since then I put a carb kit in it Removed the Gas tank and Radiator and had them both cleaned and repaired and reinstalled. NEW 12 volt Battery installed. New Fuel line and Fuel filter at carb (See threw plastic). New plugs.
I have not been able to get it started and i think maybe the coil is bad or a broken wire. I will put new Points/Condenser and cap in soon.
Still working on it and will keep you updated. I would send some pictures
if I'm allowed. Any help from readers is always appreciated and I can be
contacted at werace1@yahoo.com
Thanks, Steve

PS...You can tell me what you think of this truck...be honest!

Gramps has a new project...52 Chev PU 5 Window!
Posted: 2007-01-21 09:24:50.0
Posted by: werace
Hey, I got the old truck running yesterday. I need to time it and adjust carb now. Breaks???? I have none. Filled the Master but still nothing. Need to search that out.

Gramps has a new project...52 Chev PU 5 Window!
Posted: 2007-01-23 07:43:21.0
Posted by: Bunky
Cool truck. It's hard to say from the photo if you got any rust there, though. But it looks pretty solid. Do you have the missing fender, running boards, etc?

My cousin had one of those trucks. Great driver, but he sold it about a year ago.

Bunky

Gramps has a new project...52 Chev PU 5 Window!
Posted: 2007-01-23 09:24:58.0
Posted by: werace
Thanks Bunky, Yup I have the other fender, another grill (Chrome), both running boards,front bumper and another steering sector. The running boards have a little rustand so I may put a oak board over the rust or I may try and repair the rust. I need both door windows yet.

Gramps has a new project...52 Chev PU 5 Window!
Posted: 2007-02-12 13:50:22.0
Posted by: werace
Hey guys, I got the truck tuned up now. The distributer was 180 off and binding against the block. Got a new one and runs great. Master brake kit and I now have breaks. Getting NEW windows put in this week. Tuff when it's -10 outside with no door windows.

Horn restoration or rebuilding
Posted: 2007-01-10 16:53:42.0
Posted by: 61phoenix
I am looking for someone to restore the sound of my two horns off my 1961 Dodge. They sound week and tired and the one company I saw on the internet was for 1964 and up, they won't restore mine. Can anyone out there point me in the right direction to get these restored?
Many thanks, Mark B.
mbattista@stny.rr.com

Horn restoration or rebuilding
Posted: 2007-01-12 06:30:50.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Well, you know what they say about if you want it done right...

Odds are pretty good there is an insect nest or corrosion or dirt that is limiting the motion of the diaphragms. Careful disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly would probably cure the weak horns problem. It is certainly the least expensive alternative.

There are two articles right here at Second Chance Garage about horns:

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/508.cfm

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/198.cfm

And I found this too:

http://www.chip.com/buick/techtips/hornrepair.html

If you are not comfortable doing it yourself, you must know a friend or relative that would like to try to rebuild them for you. If all else fails, watch eBay for NOS horns. It happens every now and then that what you need is actually there. Good luck.

53 merc---------custom
Posted: 2007-01-12 16:13:28.0
Posted by: merc53
new to site appreciate any help with 53 merc
restoreing under dash-noticed at heater box there is a vacuum line connected to a valve inside box .it is teed in to vacuum line to wipers,and comes out near heater blower motor but not connected to anything?

53 merc---------custom
Posted: 2007-01-13 04:18:01.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The vacuum line goes from the heater box valve to the water control valve on the heater hose connection at the top of the engine. The idea is that you can control the amount of hot water going into the heater core to adjust the inside temperature. These things were notoriously unreliable but you can get all the parts from vintage Ford suppliers. You can also get a mechanical replacement system from some suppliers, such as T-Bird suppliers.

53 merc---------custom
Posted: 2007-01-14 17:29:46.0
Posted by: merc53
thank you very much for your prompt answer--great site

merc.53

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