SCG CLASSIC CAR FORUM ARCHIVES
SCG Classic Car Forums Archive - Page 7
series numbers
Posted: 2006-11-29 03:16:41.0
Posted by: fleetwood124
where do I find the series numbers on a 1955 cadillac fleetwood...331 engine? Thanks
series numbers
Posted: 2006-11-29 09:00:02.0
Posted by: Bunky
Try looking on the right hand side of the crankcase above the waterpump and on the right frame side bar behind the engine support. The serial numbers and the engine numbers are the same.
series numbers
Posted: 2006-11-30 16:52:01.0
Posted by: fleetwood124
Hi Bunky: Thanks much for the info. Got another question. Where is the vin number? All I can find is the numbers on the driver's inside window frame above the top door hinge. BUT...I try to get a vin check and it says I don't have enough numbers....have to have twelve numbers, and there is only 9...they are spaced as follows: 55 60 18494....that's it. Any place else I might find them. Thanks....JOHN
series numbers
Posted: 2006-11-30 17:19:48.0
Posted by: Bunky
Fleetwood: That's all the info I have on the Cadillac VIN number. Keep in mind that the standardized 17 digit VIN number didn't exist before 1981. Before that, each manufacturer had their own formats.
series numbers
Posted: 2007-04-02 05:48:22.0
Posted by: fleetwood124
HI BUNKY: THE SERIAL NUMBER I FOUND ON THE ENGINE IS: 556018494...ALSO FOUND THESE NUMBERS WHICH READ: STYLE NO. 55-6019X..AND...BODY NO. FW 3166..HOW DO I FIND OUT WHAT SERIES IT IS? AND HOW MANY WERE MADE? CAN YOU HELP...THANKS AGAIN....JOHN
series numbers
Posted: 2007-04-12 08:01:18.0
Posted by: Bunky
Hi Fleetwood:
The style No 55=6019X is for the Series 60 Special Fleetwood 4 door sedan. They produced 18,300 of them. I don't have any info on the Body No.
Hope that helps.
Bunky
series numbers
Posted: 2007-04-12 18:03:14.0
Posted by: fleetwood124
Hi Bunky: Thanks again for the info. I really do appreciate your efforts. Thanks again....JOHN
1959 caddy
Posted: 2006-11-29 09:32:52.0
Posted by: mdawdy
I am trying to find the firing sequence for my 1959 caddy 390 eng. have any ideas?
1959 caddy
Posted: 2006-11-30 17:22:37.0
Posted by: Bunky
Identification of the cylinders front to rear: left bank 1-3-5-7, right bank 2-4-6-8. Firing sequence: 18436572
72 Fiat Unibody help.
Posted: 2006-11-29 14:31:19.0
Posted by: king
I have a 72 Fiat Spider that is in good shape except for the front fenders. I have a 79 Spider for parts with no title. I'm trying to do this myself without spending a lot in the body shop. I thought that it would just be a matter of unbolting and changing them out until I started working on it and found that they are welded unibodies. Is this something I can do and if so what is the best way to do it? Thanks for any help.
72 Fiat Unibody help.
Posted: 2006-11-30 06:30:23.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
If you know how to mig weld, there's no big deal. Support your car so that there's no possibility of twisting when you remove a fender. Drill out the spot welds to get the fenders off and seam weld them back on for strength.
65 MUSTANG
Posted: 2006-12-14 09:02:55.0
Posted by: charlie
65 MUSTANG 289 (ALTERNATOR). HEADLIGHTS, INTERIOR LIGHTS PULSATE DURING ENGINE OPERATION. VERY DISTINCT AT IDLE. ALTERNATOR LIGHT FLASHES DURING OPERATION BUT IS NOT A CONTINUOUS CYCLE AS THE LIGHTS ARE. BELIEVE BELT TENSION OK. WASSUPWIDAT?
65 MUSTANG
Posted: 2006-12-14 10:43:36.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Your voltage regulator is most likely at fault, although the alternator's rectified bridge could be failing. If you have an electronic regulator there's no way to fix it. Mechanical regulators can be adjusted by any generator/alternator repair shop. The way to go on this is to measure the alternator's output voltage at about 1500 rpm for one minute. If it's consistently 13 volts or higher the alternator is probably good. If not, check it out or have it diagnosed. Rebuilt alternators for your car are very cheap, about $29.
65 STANG
Posted: 2006-12-14 14:12:54.0
Posted by: charlie
HI, I AM BACK. SEE 65 STANG BELOW. ALTERNATOR PUTTING OUT CONSISTENT 14.2-14.6 VOLTS AT ABOUT 1000 RPM. NEW VOLTAGE REGULATOR DIDN'T FIX LIGHT PULSATION. MUST HAVE DIODE FAILURE IN ALTERNATOR. NEXT QUESTION: THE LIGHTS ARE STEADY WHEN THE CAR IS FIRST CRANKED. THEN, IN ABOUT 6-8 SECONDS A SLOW PULSATION BEGINES AND SPEEDS UNTIL THE RHYTHM IS IN HARMONY WITH ENGINE NOISE. WHY IS THAT OCCURING? ALSO, JUST UNDER THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR IS A CAPACITOR. WHAT FUNCTION DOES IT HAVE? THANKS, YOU GUYS DO A GREAT JOB. CHW
65 STANG
Posted: 2006-12-15 03:34:52.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Your lights are steady while cranking because the circuits are drawn down by the battery drain to the starter. The capacitor you mention could be an ignition suppressor or old radio noise filter. Either way, if the capacitor is shorting to ground you could get pulsating lights, so disconnect it and see what happens.
Rust doors
Posted: 2006-12-21 15:24:35.0
Posted by: josmacha
Hello i'm new in here i have a question i'm from mexico if you want to know, and i'm on a 1951 buick super riviera, Before I get start with the primer i need to know if is necesary also to primer the other side of quarter panels for example
Rust doors
Posted: 2006-12-22 04:05:30.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
welcome to the site. as for priming any metal parts, if you can possibly prime or paint all sides of a piece you want to do so. This prevents rust later on.
Rust doors
Posted: 2006-12-25 18:22:29.0
Posted by: josmacha
thank's but if they have alrady rust in there can i also paint or i have to remove rust first?
Rust doors
Posted: 2006-12-27 17:28:24.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
If it possible to remove the rust, by all means do that. You can use some stuff called Naval Jelly to get most rust patches removed. But if the rust is difficult to remove or there is a lot of it, you might be better off removing what you can with a wire brush and then using a rust stabilizer or converter. Then prime and paint as you would any metal surface. There is an article that reviews an all-in-one converter and primer product right here at Second Chance Garage; http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/681.cfm
rods and pistons
Posted: 2006-12-25 18:20:46.0
Posted by: magnum250
Why do you mark rods and pistons so they go back in the same cylinder hole they came out of? Thanks magnum250
Edited on Jan 27, 2007 16:28
rods and pistons
Posted: 2006-12-26 07:37:48.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Each piston wears its cylinder walls in a different way. If an engine is dismantled and the pistons reinstalled in the non-mating cylinders you will get excessive wear. The same is true if rods are removed from pistons and not put back on the same one.
This is only important if an engine isn't being rebuilt (machined, new pistons, rings, etc.) If the cylinders have been machined and honed and new parts being put in, the only thing to worry about is to put the numbered rods on the correct journals on the crank.
Beginner Car project
Posted: 2006-12-25 21:29:48.0
Posted by: NMeyer
Hi, I was wondering if you could help me choose a good car for a beginner restoration project. i'm 15 and looking to get a car to fix up and have completed by my senior year in high school (2010). I live on a farm but have little knowledge of mechanics other than standard oil changing and spark plug... you get the point. My parents had a Datsun 280z and i looked on ebay and found a 240z converted to bigblock v8. I talked to my grandpa and he said all z's are impossibly hard to keep running but he isn't the peron you go to for a glipse of hope. So what trouble am i getting myself into by looking for a 240z in decent condition to fix up and possible replace the motor? How about replacing it with a motor of slightely larger proportions or a better performing motor (different motor). If i am in over my head what car do you reccomend? please keep in mind i am 15.
-Nick Meyer
sorry about the spelling... believe me i am brighter than i sound on paper.
Beginner Car project
Posted: 2006-12-26 03:30:11.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Nick,
The Datsun Z cars are well supported in the aftermarket for restoration. And there are complete V8 swap kits available if that is the way you want to go. I know a guy who put a 350 Chevy engine his 260Z. It is a very fast autocross car. If you're in love with the Z-cars I reckon it would present as good a start as any other car; if you've got money. The problem with the Z cars, sports cars in general, and muscle cars is that there is a huge collector's market for them. That drives the prices up. If you've got funds, go for it.
If money is a stumbling block (as it is for most of us) you should choose your first project with an eye toward expense. I assume this will be a rolling restoration. Meaning, you intend to drive this vehicle while you are rebuilding it. With that in mind, think about expenses other than the parts and professional services you will need. I mean insurance, fuel, licensing and inspection fees, etc. These are all necessary expenses to keep a vehicle on the road above and beyond your project goals.
I would like to make some recommendations for choosing a vehicle as a first project. You don't have to abide by these recommendations. You can go ahead with your Z car if that is your dream car; don't let me nor your grandpa stand in the way of whatever your dream may be. Just do it and it will work out somehow. But the pragmatist in me wants to steer you toward a less lofty goal.
Have you considered a small pickup truck for your first project? Small trucks have several things going for them. They are inexpensive to acquire. I've seen good running small trucks sell for less than a thousand dollars around here. I know for a fact that recently a nonrunning Ford Ranger was given away with a title (very important!) just to get it out of the yard. The four cylinder engines get pretty good mileage. You can drive twice as far on a gallon of gas as you could with a V8. Parts are readily available for small trucks at NAPA, Pep Boys, etc. for models going back as far as the late seventies. I don't know about your state, but in Texas the fact that you live on a farm means you can register a pickup as a "Farm Truck" for about $10 a year. Your insurance will be lower too. When this truck is rebuilt you can either sell it to finance the next project or keep it to haul parts for your next project. Either way, it will pay for itself. Plus you will have some experience working on the various systems that make up a vehicle before you tackle a more difficult restoration.
Regardless of what vehicle you choose as your first project there are some things I strongly recommend.
At the top of my list is NO TITLE, NO DEAL. Ask your grandpa about vehicle titles and the hassle of trying to register a vehicle without one.
A close second is NO RUST. Rust is difficult to deal with. It is hugely time and money consuming. Unless you want to make bodywork your career, NO RUST.
Next on my list of priorities is to choose a manual shift vehicle. I have several reasons for this preference. One reason is that automatics are hydraulic devices that do not take well to long periods of no use. That means that if your chosen project has not been on the road in the past year, you are going to need to replace or rebuild it. Once again, expensive and time consuming. A manual transmission has the saving grace of being a box of gears. Odds are really good that you won't even have to open a manual transmission to get your project going. You will need gaskets and seals if you've got to tear it down for inspection. You might need some bearings too. But odds are really good that unless it has been under water or seriously abused, you can tear it down and put it back together with the same gears and synchros. That's about a $100 rebuild that you can do in your shop with a decent manual.
Get a vehicle with a carburetor. I love fuel injection. EFI has improved engine efficiency dramatically. It has made possible fine tuning that cannot be achieved with a carburetor. Despite that, as a first project an EFI vehicle would pose a very steep learning curve. Learn carbs first. Then study EFI, then work on EFI. There are several sensors, the throttle body(S), and the ECU to contend with. A failure here can mean a big expense. Meanwhile, back in the carbureted world, you can get a "kit" to refurbish almost any carb for less than $50. (SU's, like on the early Z cars, are the exception to this. Kits for those are a bit more expensive. Just something to keep in mind while you are deciding on your first project.)
Get a vehicle with as few options as possible. Air conditioning, power brakes, power steering, power windows, power seats, remote anything all mean another subsystem that will require attention. You want to learn the major systems first. This is your first project. If you start with a hugely complicated vehicle, it may be the last. I hope you will do another and then another. You can learn about the various subsystems with those projects.
I hope I haven't discouraged you. I know I've talked about expense a lot. That's because it costs a lot of money to keep vehicles running. I am glad you want to do this. And, if the Z car is THE car for you, practice on a less expensive first project and then find a Z car to build. As I said, just my two cents. ;-)
Beginner Car project
Posted: 2006-12-26 12:13:55.0
Posted by: NMeyer
Ok, I like the idea of a swap kit. Just a few easy questions. who? were? and how much? a few medium questions. This is still small block right? If I get the swap kit would i have to replace other main systems like the exhaust system because parts dont match up? and one hard question. I know it is hard to say but what gas mileage would i be looking at with a V8? I would like to stay above 12mpg after modifacations for performance.
- Nick Meyer
Beginner Car project
Posted: 2006-12-26 15:05:13.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Nick,
I just put the phrase "z car V8" into Google and got lots of imformation. Some of these links should answer your questions:
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/
http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/zcar.htm
http://hybridz.org/
http://www.zparts.com/indexes/featproj_index.html
NIck, don't be mislead by the "small" block designator. NASCAR runs small blocks. They can be made to make gobs of horsepower; more than you need for the street, in fact.
I have never built up a Z car. So I cannot answer your questions specifically. In general though, you will need to change the cooling system, the exhaust system, the brakes will have to upgraded, the suspension will need stiffer springs in front, and you will have to shorten (or lengthen) the driveshaft and change the yoke to match the donor transmission. If the rearend is too weak to standup to a V8, you'll have to change that too. Your fuel mileage will depend more on gearing than anything else. With a stock 350 and an overdrive final gear you should be able to get 20 MPG, no problem.
Do your homework on this before you buy anything. Good luck on your project.
Regards,
Shannon
Beginner Car project
Posted: 2006-12-26 19:43:01.0
Posted by: NMeyer
I am looking into getting a few good books on "z-car restoration" from amazon. I found one really good one for overall restoration but what should i type in for v8 conversion? i cant seem to find any manuals on amazon.
I realised one large thing that i need to know before i start anything at all... What are the large differences between the 240z, 260z, and 280z? My dad told me that the 240z has a carberator when one of the others is fuel injected. if i get a model with a carberator than can I v8 swap with fuel injected motors?
as for the small/big block deal i wanted the small block. and my parents dont want to get a big block. I dont want one for the main reason of massive structural modifacation.
In your opinion how much am i looking at for V8 swap and restoration back to "standard". So how much if i already have the car and dont want to deck it out with chrome everything?
-Nick Meyer
Beginner Car project
Posted: 2006-12-27 08:49:09.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Nick,
You probably won't find a book on V8 conversions at Amazon. However, at www.johnscars.com I found this under Z car conversions:
"An abbreviated version of the conversion instructions are available for $25 - they will give you a good idea of the project and the $25 is credited to your kit purchase."
So you should start there, I reckon. Think about it for a long time before you act. If the original engine in the Z car is running I would recommend keeping it. It only makes sense to change out to a V8 if the engine is blown OR if you want the horsepower for drag racing, autocross, road course tracks, or drifting. The V8 is total overkill for the street. A V8 conversion will be more expensive than a rolling restoration using the original running gear.
Yes, the early Z cars run carburetors. Yes, a carburetted car can be fuel injected; it's done everyday. The opposite is true too. Lots of cars that were originally fuel injected have been converted to carburetors because of the expense of making older EFI systems function properly.
The differences in the Z cars were primarily engine size (The numbers in the name indicate engine size; 240 = 2.4 liters, 260 = 2.6 l, and 280 = 2.8 l.) and they got progressively heavier. With each increase in engine size more comfort and convenience features were added.
As I indicated earlier, I've never built up a Z car so I can't answer your question about expense directly. However, I have swapped motors in other marques and it is always easier (and cheaper) to use an engine from the same family of cars. The kits that are available for the V8 conversion of the Z cars look like they take a lot of the hassle out of the whole affair but you still need to start with a donor V8 vehicle that has a complete running gear. You never know what you are going to need to finish such a conversion. Even a seemingly simple thing like throttle linkage can stop you in your tracks until you figure out how to get it done.
If I already had a Z car in the barn, I'd get it running with the original engine if possible. If it has a rod hanging out of the block, it might make more sense to go with the V8. That's a call you'll have to make.
Beginner Car project
Posted: 2006-12-27 10:39:16.0
Posted by: NMeyer
Ok. I think I would actually like to get into racing at some time. Since the swap seems like a long and difficult road what do you think about this car?
Description
Item Specifics - Cars & Trucks
Datsun : Z-Series
1971 DATSUN 240Z COUPE
Miles: 67300 Body Type: Coupe
Transmission: Manual
Engine: 8 - Cyl. Interior: Black
Warranty: No Year: 1971
Title: Clear VIN Number: --
Condition: Certified Pre-Owned Exterior: Orange
Fuel Type: Gasoline Inspection: --
Options
CD Player
Vehicle Description
1971 DATSUN 240Z COUPE Converted to a 327ci V8 with ~67300 Miles on the Rebuild, Cam, Roller Rockers, Rock Crusher 4 Speed Manual, Front Disc Brakes, Cable Clutch, Solid and Strong, Looks and Drives Great.The car is in perfect condition, no scratches, no special marks, no need for additional repairs what so ever. The real miles onboard, a great car ready to be yours. It has no accident or any engine problem.
This guys has everything in his car that i could have every wanted if i could build my own down to the paint color. The biggest issue is that is is in VA and we cant get to it. I figured the worst thing is that the motor wouldnt work for some reson but then all i would have to change the motor for a new motor that is the same thing, Skip the whole deal of changing exhaust, springs, yadayadayada. The interesting part about this car is that this guys has restricted bidding on it. Only people he allows can bid on the car, he really wants to make sure it goes to someone who will take good care of it. Thus having limited bidders actually brings the price down to what i can handle. What do you think this car is worth?
-Nick Meyer
Beginner Car project
Posted: 2006-12-27 16:02:54.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Nick, I think you and I are on different pages. I thought you wanted to build a car as a project. If you buy something someone else has built, that's fine, but you won't have the experience of doing it.
I have no idea of the value of the car. If it is a very well done conversion it could be worth close to $10k. More likely it will sell for between $3500 and $5000. The advert does say that the engine has 67,000 miles on the rebuild. It doesn't say if all those miles were accumulated on this car. That would be good to know because it would mean a well sorted car; not a recent project that hasn't been road tested for any length of time.
If it across the country and you don't have anyone in the area to inspect the car for you, pass it up regardless of how "perfect" it is. And be sure you have a title in hand before you hand over money.
Regards,
Shannon
Beginner Car project
Posted: 2006-12-27 17:30:42.0
Posted by: NMeyer
Yeah... it's definitely a scam. this car is listed here for $9900 with 3k miles on the v8 http://www.oldride.com/classic_cars/519443.html?&CS
one car is in Virginia and the other is in California. But they are indeed the same car.
and the same thing is on ebay, exactly the same pictures. I found a forum that has a whole thread about this guys. a guy lives 10min away and he is going to see it.
so it is back to the conversion. I thought about it and i think i am going to do the rolling restoration on a 1971 240z coupe. since the 240's have carburators i can learn about them while i work up money for the v8 conversion. Plus i like the coupe design verses the 2+2. It is the same as the car i posted about earlier (exept this ones real).
I found the book, would it be wise to get a manual that goes to the kit i am getting? or are they all the same? I am getting a I found another forum dedicated to just z's that i'm going post about what kits are good.
-Nick Meyer
Beginner Car project
Posted: 2006-12-27 18:18:28.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Nick, read everything you can get your hands on about the Z cars. Know what the weak points are (where they rust, what breaks, etc.) and how to recognize common problems with the cars before you go shopping to get that '71. Study the V8 conversion information on the web and in the printed material you can get. Good luck dude.
Forum Archives continued on Page 8
| 
