SCG Classic Car Forums Archive - Page 6

Door panel removal
Posted: 2006-06-18 03:36:57.0
Posted by: ryansdad
I have a 1994 Buick Regal Custom. Driver's door will not open from the outside, but will open from the inside. Need to know how to remove the door panel so I can get to the mechanism for the door. Thanks

Door panel removal
Posted: 2006-06-19 03:15:04.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
All door panels are removable, but the trick is to get off any hardware that was installed after the panel first. This typically means that the door handle and arm rest have to be removed, along with manual window cranks. These can be held in with C-clips on the back side of the knobs or small Allen screws or Torx screws. You need to carefully inspect the handles to see which securing method was used. Once the handles/arm rests are off and any visible finish screws are removed, pry a bottom corner of the panel off with a putty knife. The panel will be held on with stiff "velcro-like" attachment points or with special clips that expand into holes in the door. Keep working the panel loose with the putty knife and it will eventually be free of its attachments and able to be lifted up and out over the top lip (window)of the door frame.

1947ontiac torpedo 6cyl.
Posted: 2006-06-23 07:02:18.0
Posted by: jaime
....new coil, plugs, wires, points, dist.cap, condenser....there is spark on the plugs,points, gas in carb,vehilce still wont start.Vehicle was working fine and after turning it off it went to sleep on me. Any suggestions? Thank you.

1947ontiac torpedo 6cyl.
Posted: 2006-06-24 04:36:33.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Does it fire using spray starting fluid? If so, the problem is fuel delivery or water in the gas. Try spraying some fresh gas into the carb and starting the car. If neither methods works, put a vacuum gauge on the car and crank the starter. If little or no vacuum, there's either a leak or the valves aren't seating. You can do a cold compression test in lieu of the vacuum gauge if you want.

Rusty Oil Pan
Posted: 2006-06-26 06:29:48.0
Posted by: Bobert
Had the oil pan degreased and painted the exterior but left the inside bare metal. Since the degreasing method baked all the oils out the interior of the pan now has a coating of rust. I don't want to put the pan on the engine like this. Best way to remove the surface rust? Some areas, like under the internal baffles, are pretty inaccessible.
Bob

Rusty Oil Pan
Posted: 2006-06-30 15:43:16.0
Posted by: Bobert
Answering my own query here. I poured two gallons of white vinegar in the pan and have let it set for 3 days now. Looks to be working well! I'll neutalize with water, dry and hit it with WD40 and then wipe with oil before putting it on the engine.

Studebaker Engine
Posted: 2006-06-29 10:27:23.0
Posted by: Guyelliott
I have a 1947 CJ2A Jeep with a 6 cyl Inline engine in it. I think it might be a Studebaker. It has a number on the Head (529278 and a number on the block (5248077) and a serial number stamped on the block on the left side close to the head (731057). I would like to fine out what engine it is and get the specs for it. I hope someone can help or tell me where to look.

Studebaker Engine
Posted: 2006-06-29 10:44:26.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
My records only show a '47 CJ2A Jeep with a 4 cylinder engine only. And I don't see any Studebaker engine numbers similar to those you mentioned.

You might try Jeep/Willys owners clubs to see if they know.

For a list of clubs check out http://www.willysamerica.com/clubs/clubs.html

Good luck

Studebaker Engine
Posted: 2006-06-29 11:29:11.0
Posted by: Guyelliott
Thank You for your answer. You are correct the 1947 CJ2A did only come with a 4 cyl engine. The one I have, you can see where someone retrofitted to take the larger 6 cyl. I'm thinking maybe it's a Studebaker model 169 Inline six, but I can't find anyway to find out. If you have any suggestions please let me know.

Freeing up clutch frozen to flywheel
Posted: 2006-07-02 08:52:42.0
Posted by: bear
I have a 46 chevy pickup and the clutch is rusted to the flywheel How can I free it up.

Bear

Freeing up clutch frozen to flywheel
Posted: 2006-07-04 06:24:50.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Soak the thing in a bucket of antifreeze for several days. It should dissolve the rust buildup eventually and won't harm the flywheel

46 Ford 6 Cyl. Timing
Posted: 2006-07-03 05:46:45.0
Posted by: 2408joe
What is the dwell setting and how do I do it, on a postive ground system ? What should the timing be with todays fuels and how do I time it ? If I need to use a vaccum gauge where do I install it ? Thanks Joe

46 Ford 6 Cyl. Timing
Posted: 2006-07-04 06:23:43.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Generally, the dwell angle on 6 cylinder engines is about 45 degrees. You can simply reverse the meter connections for a positive ground system. Read our article on engine tuning/dwell to get a good understanding of the principles involved. You shouldn't have to change the timing from its original specification. Your engine won't notice any difference with today's fuels because its compression ratio was quite low. Vacuum gauges install at the vacuum port on the carburetor. Yours is a metal tube that needs to be disconnected.

removing auto glass
Posted: 2006-07-03 18:36:01.0
Posted by: chace
My Desto is almost completely torn down but I'm worried about taking out the glass in the doors. Are there tricks to this? I read a prior article about buying safety glass and cutting it myself, (which I plan on doing). I just don't know how to take the glass out or get it loose. Getting to the glass seems to be very limited. Also when the time comes where do I get new gaskets for the doors, windows, trunk etc? Thanks, Josh

removing auto glass
Posted: 2006-07-04 06:19:47.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Door glass removal is almost always done by disconnecting the glass and its mounting channel from the window regulator and then rotating it up and out of the opening where it goes up and down. By rotating (front to back)it you can remove it from its end channels and it can then be tilted out of the opening. It is important to take photos of how everything is attached so you can reverse the process later.
Most window regulator assemblies have moving rollers that can be detached from the arms or pushed out the end of the tracks. That's how you get the mounting channel loose.

Carb Re-Jetting
Posted: 2006-07-08 08:56:19.0
Posted by: dmanser
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to reject a Holley 4160 600CFM down to a 450CFM or 480CFM. I have a 66 mustang with a med built 289cid now around 302, it's running too rich and been tuned. I've also installed a spacer on the manifold, it helped a little. This is not the HiPro engine it a 200HP and the stock carb would of been Autolite 4100 480CFM with 1.08 venturi, 4 V. The formula I come up with is around 480CFM? Engine size X 5500 RPM / 3456 = 480. I'm thinking if I re-jet it will take care of it??

Thanks for any help,
Dan

Carb Re-Jetting
Posted: 2006-07-09 03:49:55.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
It's very easy to do so. Holley makes a full range of main jets to accomodate any engine size within the carburetor's operating specs. You should get jets 2 and 4 sizes smaller and experiment with the engine's output. You'll be able to dial it in pretty well.

Frozen Brake Drums
Posted: 2006-07-09 18:55:06.0
Posted by: svroom
I have a Jeep Wrangler and it has sat and sat. The brakes are all frozen. I can't get the rear drums off. Do I get out the torch?

Frozen Brake Drums
Posted: 2006-07-16 04:58:18.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The first thing to do is start the Jeep and try to rock it backwards and forwards in gear in an attempt to break the shoes/pads loose. With some patience this usually happens and then you can get the drums off.
Otherwise, grind off the heads of the shoe hold-down pins at the back of the brake backing plate (they are in about the 3:00 and 9:00 positions). Then you can usually pull the drum off and the shoes will come with it, accompanied by the springs.

1952 Mercury carburetor push rod information
Posted: 2006-07-11 13:42:21.0
Posted by: cehoy
In 1960 I owned a '52 Mercury and it began stalling...sometimes every fifty feet...sometimes every fifty miles. An excellent mechanic in Texas said, the push rod in the '52 Mercury was made from a soft alloy...after 50K miles, it wears down just a hair. To get this car running right, you have to braise a little copper on the end of the push rod to bring it back to normal specs. I did that and the car ran like a jewel for years. When the car stalled, if I just sat in it for an hour or so...it would start again. I can't remember why just letting it sit like that would cause it to start again...it had something to do with the worn down push rod creating a "short stroke"...is anyone out there familiar with this? Why would a short stroke cause the car to stall...but allow it to start again an hour later? (I'm writing a memoir about an important road trip I made in this car and the push rod fixing scene is big...I want to be accurate when I discuss the push rod, the braising and the reason the car would start again if I just let it alone for a while. Chris Hoy

1967 Camaro help
Posted: 2006-07-12 17:39:23.0
Posted by: HarleyD
I have recently bought a '67 Camaro and I need some help with vacum line hook-up. The vacum line to the choke on the Rodchester carb is missing as well as the vacum advance for the distributor. The hook ups are there but no lines go to them. Does anyone know where the vacum lines are so I can hook them up? I see a 1/4" tube comming form the back of the engine that isn't hooked up to anything. Is it as simple as getting some rubber hose and a "T" and conecting them up?

1967 Camaro help
Posted: 2006-07-21 03:49:40.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
THe 1/4 inch tube could be hooked up directly to the vacuum advance, but usually the advance vacuum was provided by a port on the front of the carburetor. Many carbs had two ports, one above and one below the throttle plate. That would allow the user to select advance all the time (below) or only when the throttle was moved (above.) The tube at the back of the engine probably provided vacuum to the automatic transmissions.

Carb selection, 2bbl vs. 4bbl
Posted: 2006-07-16 21:53:08.0
Posted by: bill votel
I have an early 70's ford 302 that I had rebuilt with a .30 over bore, an R-V cam, and an Offy aluminum intake manifold. The manifold is a 4 bbl, but I was given an adapter to a 2bbl. I will be using Sanderson headers, either the FF1 or FF2 model. Which carb will be better- 4bbl or 2bbl? Some people say a 4bbl will perform better and get better gas milage. My impression of milage with 4bbl carbs is that it is operator dependent. I know there are formulas based on cubic inches and top rpm's. How do I calculate that info for the above engine? This engine is destined for a 1951 Ford F-1 which is pretty much stock. A four speed top loader will be mated to it with the current goal being to have something that looks cool while hauling yard waste. A car show or two might be possible. Thankyou for your help.

Carb selection, 2bbl vs. 4bbl
Posted: 2006-07-21 03:47:26.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The 4-barrel will give you more power as the engine revs up and won't hurt mileage unless your foot is always in it. It's the best carburetor for your engine's configuration.
Calculating the CFM requirement is simple. You need to divide the displacment of the engine by 1728 (the number of cubic inches in a cubic foot)Multiply that number by the top rev and divide the product by 60 (seconds). In your case, 310 cubic inches (that's about what your displacement is) divided into 1728 = 5.5 cubic feet X 6000 rpm = 33,445 divided by 60 seconds = 557 CFM.

coping with 8 volt battery modifications
Posted: 2006-07-17 05:20:17.0
Posted by: JustysGarage
within the next week I will be picking up my dream car, a 1947 DeSoto. I am looking forward to the drive home but wonder if I need to be wary of the eight volt battery that is in the car. If I am driving a great distance than it is used to am I risking damaging any components by over charging? Would I be better off bringing a 6 volt battery and switching it in for the trip or could I trust that whatever modifications that should have been made at the time of the initial change to an eight volt would be adequate and appropriate for the trip. In the past I have avoided changing the electrics in my cars and never believed that a car in good condition needed anything but what was original. For instance, my '50 Chrysler may turn over sluggishly, but still starts on the second turn of the motor.

Any advice is appreciated,
Justin Schiess
Rochester, NY

coping with 8 volt battery modifications
Posted: 2006-07-21 03:37:23.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The 8-volt system shouldn't do any harm to the car's components. Your generator charges 7-8 volts when it's running and the battery isn't going to take any more current than is delivered. Everything should run fine.

priming the convertible top pump
Posted: 2006-07-20 12:59:44.0
Posted by: mccartyef
I have a 1967 Galaxie convertible that I have just replaced the hoses from the pump to the ram arms that raise and lower the top. What is the best way to prime the pump with the least amount of air. I can't seem to get all of the air out. I have dealt with every aspect of any car except for this one. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Eric

priming the convertible top pump
Posted: 2006-07-21 03:35:08.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We've not primed one of those pumps, but since it's nothing more than a hydraulic pump (and we've primed many of those) our method seems to work well. Load the pump's reservoir with fluid and leave the output hose connection a trifle loose. Put rags under the connection and run the pump until fluid comes out. This will be preceeded by spurts of fluid and air. That should do it.

RESTORING HOOD LATCH PLATE
Posted: 2006-07-31 12:27:04.0
Posted by: 47Chev
I am presently restoring a 1947 Chevrolet coupe. The cadmium plating on the hood latch plate is somewhat worn and I wanted to clean it up a bit.

I am considering using Eastwood's Silver Cad aerosol or possibly the Aluma Blast aerosol for this. Any advice on which would work best or alternate methods??

thanks,

John

RESTORING HOOD LATCH PLATE
Posted: 2006-07-31 13:03:23.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Either aerosol paint will adhere fine, assuming you prep the metal properly before spraying. You can still do cad and zinc plating yourself in a safe manner. Kits are available from www.caswellplating.com and we've used their products for a number of years. The only other alternative is powder coating, and we do that quite a bit. The "almost chrome" powder looks like cad plating - at least close enough.

Engine recommendation for 58 Chevy-Biscayne
Posted: 2006-08-14 06:18:12.0
Posted by: msco123
Can anyone recommend a v-8 for this car which will fit with the least amount of retofitting?

Engine recommendation for 58 Chevy-Biscayne
Posted: 2006-08-14 09:49:12.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
If your Biscayne already has a V8 you'll find any smallblock Chevy built over the subsequant 35 years will fit with very little effort, with the early-to-mid 60s engines having the most similarities when it comes to exhausts and accessories.
The Biscayne has an enormous engine bay, so there's no limit to what you can squeeze in there.

Ignition switch
Posted: 2006-08-14 11:27:00.0
Posted by: whale
I converted a 1955 dodge 6 volt positvie ground system with points to 12 volt negative ground system with electronic ignition and 1956 12volt ignition switch from a dodge.when i start the vehicle with the new ignition switch its ok but the vehicle wont shut off when the ignition switch is shut off.any suggestions ? its a 1955 dodge motor with a ford 4 post fenderwell mounted starter solenoid and a electronic ignition containing single ballast resistor(pre 1972),1972 and up alternator,voltage regulator, ignition control module and chrysler distributor.theres only four wires any ideas ?

Ignition switch
Posted: 2006-08-14 12:17:22.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Your system is getting voltage to the coil even when the ignition switch is turned off. Most likely this is due to leakage from the voltage regulator to the ignition circuit. We find this to be a common problem with complex conversions (electronic ignition, alternator, etc.), so you need to trace your wiring from the field and battery connections at the regulator back to the wiring leading to the ignition switch. The "fix" will be a re-routing of some part of the circuit. Be patient.

Ignition switch
Posted: 2006-08-15 13:20:01.0
Posted by: whale
I had the battery wire hooked to the ignition post on the ignition switch making it a constant hot also probably why my battery keep going dead and the coil lead hooked to the battery post on the ignition switch

Re-install glass to window frame??
Posted: 2006-08-15 06:18:10.0
Posted by: jakeh
I read the article "How To Remove Glass From A Window Frame".
I've gotten all of that done already. I need to know exactly what order to "stack up" the rubber and sealant between the bracket and glass.
i.e., Does the rubber go into the bracket, followed by sealant, then glass? Or, does the sealant go into the bracket, then the rubber, then the glass?

Email me if I'm not making sense.
jakesotheremailaddress@yahoo.com

Thank you for any help that can be offered.

Jake

Re-install glass to window frame??
Posted: 2006-08-15 07:45:21.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We've found that most often the best way is to put the rubber on the glass (dry, without sealant) and then put sealant on the rubber and slip (push hard, but carefully) the piece into the bracket. The sealant helps lubricate the rubber to get it into the bracket.
If this doesn't work (some cars don't) then your best bet is to put the rubber into the frame first and then put sealant in the rubber and push the glass into it. Always push with your hands, never a metal object.

motor mounts
Posted: 2006-08-16 20:34:04.0
Posted by: bill votel
Do you know of any commercially prepared motor mounts to mate a 302 Ford to a '51 Ford F-1 P.U. truck? I have a pair from Brookville Roadster which appear sturdy, and provide good clearence, but are too short to reach the frame rails since they are designed for a Model A. I'd rather use something built for the job than fabricate something. You guys havecome through before; I hope you can do it again. Thanks.
P,S, The '52 project brake article looks great.
Bill Votel

motor mounts
Posted: 2006-08-17 03:58:29.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Offhand we don't, but you might try www.progressiveautomotive.com and ask them. They build a lot of modified chassis and cars and are likely to have run across such things.

55 T-Bird Project
Posted: 2006-08-18 05:40:05.0
Posted by: lstanford
I read your articles with interest because I have a 1955 T-Bird in need of a restoration ...How has the T-bird been running any recent issues ? Do you have a feel for the hours and dollars required for the restoration? Thanks

55 T-Bird Project
Posted: 2006-08-19 06:32:14.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
To answer as accurately as possible, the T-Bird is running very well so far, although I've only put about 75 miles on it. Other projects, weather and misc. activities have limited driving it but that will change in a couple weeks. There have been no significant "bugs" to work out as yet and the AOD transmission allows the car to run at 1900 rpm at 65 mph, which means low noise and cooler engine temps.
It's an old car and old technology frame/body, but it rides pretty well with the suspension mods. If doing over I'd consider modifying a modern frame, however.
The time it took to do the entire project was about 900 hours, which is typical for a frame-off restoration. Costs have run $16,000 for parts/machining/chroming/paint, etc., over and above the original cost of the car itself, but that's doing all the work and not farming out major components to shops.

71 Chevelle Trans/driveshaft combo
Posted: 2006-08-20 11:38:02.0
Posted by: DaveG
I have a 71 chevelle with a 350 & TH350 trans. The tranny in it has a 9" shaft. I want to put a TH350 with a 6' Shaft in it. Any idea what I can use for a drive shaft. Did the chevelle originally come with a 6" or 9" shaft Transmossion?

71 Chevelle Trans/driveshaft combo
Posted: 2006-12-27 20:31:21.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Hey Dave, are you are talking about the tailshaft? If so, you can use either transmission and have your driveshaft shortened or lengthened to suit the tranny. Measure from the pinion yoke to the transmission output shaft. Take your driveshaft and the length you measured to a local driveshaft shop and tell them what you need. In a few days you'll have balanced and painted driveshaft of the correct length.

If you have no driveshaft at all, the shop will need to know the size of the pinion yoke and the diameter and spline count of the transmission output shaft as well as the length. If at all possible it would be best to take the car to them and let them do the measurements.

Here is a page that lists various dimensions for popular automatics:
http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/transdim.html

55 F250 4 spd transmission questions
Posted: 2006-08-20 21:39:58.0
Posted by: Tony
I just got this 55 f250 and feel like I should change the transmission oil as it's probably as old as the truck. My questions are where are the drain and fill plugs located (I think it's a Borg Warner T-98 transmission) and what kind of oil should I use?

55 F250 4 spd transmission questions
Posted: 2006-08-21 03:13:41.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The fill plug is most likely on the right side (passenger) of the transmission, approximately half way up. Some old transmissions didn't have drain plugs, so if you don't see a plug on the bottom you'll have to siphon out the old oil. The plugs, in either case, will either be Allen-type (recessed, hex shaped) or a square-shaft plug that can be removed with an adjustable wrency. You need to use 90-weight gear oil or equivalent synthetic oil.

55 F250 4 spd transmission questions
Posted: 2006-08-22 19:33:10.0
Posted by: Tony
The plug was right where you said it would be and the drain on the same side at the bottom. At this moment the transmission is draining and the fill and drain plugs are soaking in degreaser. This site is a great resource for anyone restoring or even just maintaining a vintage vehicle. Thanks for your help!

wheels newbie question
Posted: 2006-08-22 07:45:51.0
Posted by: Fred
I'm new at this and I am getting ready to clean up the wheels on my '60 chevy.

I want to bead blast the wheels and have them powder coated. Does bead blasting have any effect on how well the wheels hold air? Do I powder coat the entire rim, inside and out? I know these are silly questions but I don't want to mess things up.

Fred

wheels newbie question
Posted: 2006-08-22 10:28:43.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
You'll want to blast the entire wheel to prevent rust and reveal any flaws, and doing so won't affect their ability to hold air. We recommend powder coating the entire rim (for rust prevention inside). The coating might get a little scraped when they mount the new tires, but don't worry about it.

Mustang Door Glass Adjustment
Posted: 2006-08-23 07:05:10.0
Posted by: lorenmcguire
I have a 2000 Mustang Convertable. I can't seem to adjust the guides so the glass back mechanism will stay attached and go up and down as it should. The glass was recently replaced because of a design defect within the actual glass and metal attachment on the bottom which eventually gives out in ALL mustangs. The new design is supposed to prevent this and would appear to be much better. The door mechanism uses a scissor type control to move the glass up and down within the door frame (this is electric, not manual). There are stops (2 - L shaped metal brackets with rubber pads, adjustable) which are supposed to stop the glass at the top of the throw. In addition, there are slider guides (2 - L shaped metal brackets with material attached to them, also adjustable) which put pressure on the glass to keep the glass aligned with the top opening. Each of the metal guides (2 track guides) within the door are attached at a fixed point within the hollow of the door. The front metal guide is open on one side and the glass front guide mechanism (portion of glass towards the front of the car) has an extension which fits in this guide. On the back portion of the glass, there is a post (perpindicular to the glass) which fits into a bearing type wheel. This wheel (metal) slides up and down in the back guide. Each of the metal slides (2) have various adjustments which allow the brackets to move in our out (toward the driver seat or out away from the driver door as in the way the driver would look out the window). These guides do not allow adjustment from front of vehicle to back of vehicle (in this manner, they are fixed to a specific spot). The guides can be adjusted to allow the glass tilt to fit within the window frame. The problems is that when the glass is stopped at the top of what should be the throw, if the door is open, the back post will pop out of the bearing in the guide. The bearing or wheel stays in the guide, but the back of the glass is now detached and floating free. This also allows the back stop on the glass to go above the actual stop in the door. When the window is detached in this way, the window will no longer go down as the back stop is now above the stop in the door. I need to know if this is a defect in the way the glass was made, defect in the post or bearing, or a problem with the way the glass was adjusted. If anyone can help me figure this out, I would appreciate it.

Mustang Door Glass Adjustment
Posted: 2006-08-24 03:49:35.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
You describe a problem with the way the glass was adjusted. The scissors-type track you mention is movable as an assembly and whoever replaced the glass didn't get it correct. You should try to get the shop to redo the work if possible, otherwise take the car to a dealer. They shouldn't charge more than about one hour's time to do the work properly.

1964 NOVA wagon
Posted: 2006-08-23 11:55:02.0
Posted by: ozochuco
I HAVE A 1964 NOVA WAGON. I AM TRYING TO REMOVE THE UPPER REAR WINDOW GUIDE/MOLDING FROM THE CAR. THER IS SOME RUST I WANT TO REMOVE BUT I CANT SEE ANY WAY TO REMOVE THIS WITH OUT RUINING THE PIECE. CAN YOU HELP?

1964 NOVA wagon
Posted: 2006-08-24 03:46:11.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
These trim pieces frequently have a lip on them that is held by a slot in the window rubber. The best way to remove them is to remove the entire window/rubber/trim assembly by lubricating the rubber (Armor-All, soapy water, etc.) and pushing it out from inside, very gently or - if the rubber is original and brittle - cutting the inside rubber flange away. Once the assembly is out you can bend the rubber and release the trim.
If your trim is held by clips imbedded in the rubber it's still best to remove the entire window as above.

Temp. wireing harness needed
Posted: 2006-08-23 17:11:51.0
Posted by: 47 Cadillac
I have a '47 Cadillac that I'm working on. I have removed the front sheet metal so I have better access to steam clean & work on the engine. The wiring harness is shot, (I disconnected it & have a new one, but don't want to install it untill I finish the engine.) I want to make a temp wiring harness so I can start the engine & move the car in & out of my shop. Can I use a battery, coil & distributor only? Do I need to hook up the coil? Anybody have any ideas? Thanks, Bob

Temp. wireing harness needed
Posted: 2006-08-24 03:41:27.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We do this all the time. You can hook the battery to the coil, of course, but you will want to route the wire through a switch (we use household light switches)so that the engine can be turned on or off at will. Route another wire from a second switch to the starter.

Temp. wireing harness needed
Posted: 2006-08-24 06:46:01.0
Posted by: 47 Cadillac
Thanks for the help. I tried to turn the engine over by jmuping the the posts on the starter to the battery. It turned over a bit but it dosen't want to engage. Do I need to go through the solenoid? There are two connections on the solenoid but I dont see any markings on them as to wich goes where. Thank you, Bob

Temp. wireing harness needed
Posted: 2006-08-25 05:30:09.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
you need to go through the solenoid and make sure your battery cable is tightly secured to the starter terminal. The solenoid's two connections are most likely ground and + voltage, so look for any stamped signs of which is which. Otherwise, connect your starter switch wire to one side and a ground wire to the other. If the starter doesn't engage, reverse the wires on the solenoid.

electric tachometer
Posted: 2006-08-23 21:07:09.0
Posted by: 17in68
I have a Sun SST #802 tachometer hooked up to a mid-60s GM V8 w/point-style distributor. Always worked fine. After a long and productive life, the distributor finally gave up the ghost and died. Rather than doing a rebuild, I installed a new HEI distributor. Good call because there is a definite improvement in engine performance. But the downside is the Sun no longer operates correctly, even though it is plumbed to the tachometer connection in the HEI. I vaguely recall that when the HEI first came out in the early 70s, it was common to put a resistor or perhaps condenser in line to address this very issue. Anybody steer me to a reference text about this topic? In advance, thanks for the help!

electric tachometer
Posted: 2006-08-24 03:39:16.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Many Sun tachs had different connections for points/HEI/module ignitions. If yours doesn't contact the SUN tech department. You should be able to Google search them and they will be able to steer you in.

electric tachometer
Posted: 2006-08-25 06:56:38.0
Posted by: 17in68
Thank you for responding. Unfortunately, Sun is no longer in business. Their successor, Actron, does not offer technical support for the Sun products. So that route is a dead end. Thus my inquiry to you. Any other leads? In advance, thanks for the help.

electric tachometer
Posted: 2006-08-25 07:32:53.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
All we can offer in the way of advice is what we'd do in your situation. Knowing that the Sun worked on a partial 12-volt input signal (from about 6 volts to 11 volts, depending upon the rpm, since the more often the points closed the greater the average voltage over time) we'd measure the signal out of the HEI tach port. If it's high we'd put in a resistor. If low (a more likely bet) we'd have to come up with some sort of amplifier circuit or signal converter. If that proved tedious we'd buy a newer tach that's compatible with HEI systems.

electric tachometer
Posted: 2006-12-22 07:05:07.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
I realize this is an old thread and you have probably already resolved your tach problem. But I just today found this site and I thought that even if you have found an answer maybe other folks are having the same problem. You were on the right track with resistors and condensors. You probably need a tach filter. The coil used to have about 7.5V on the points terminal because of the ballast resistor. The tach was designed to work with that voltage. With the HEI system the C terminal now has 12V pulses. Also, many of the HEI modules have "dirty" tach outputs that have a lot of ringing going on. The result is a pegged needle, irratic bouncing, or the tach just shuts down.

GM no longer sells tach filters because their tachs are now driven by directly by the microprocessor. Several aftermarket sources supply their versions but the cheapest one I've seen was $20 and some are as much as $80. That is a lot of dough for two resistors and a capacitor.

Most Radio Shack stores have a limited supply of parts these days. You can try your local Radio Shack but I doubt you'll find what you need. But Radioshack.com has what you need:
Capacitor, .047uf, 50V, Cat. # 272-1068, $1.29
Resistor, 3k, 1/4W, Cat. # 271-1328, (5 pack) $.99
Resistor, 10k, 1/4W, Cat. # 271-1126, (5 pack) $.99

Solder the two resistors and one leg of the capacitor together. Wrap that connection with heat shrink tube. Solder 18ga. wire to the other ends of all three components. Use different color wires so you can keep them straight after you wrap the entire thing in more heat shrink tube. Use male, female, or ring terminals as necessary on the other end of the wires.

In case the image I attached doesn't stay here, the wire attached to the 3K resistor is connected to the C terminal of the HEI module. The wire coming from the other lead of the capacitor goes to engine ground. The wire from the 10K resistor feeds the tach. I hope this works for you.

electric tachometer
Posted: 2006-12-22 10:23:32.0
Posted by: 17in68
This is so cool! Thank you for taking the time to respond to this topic. I have not resolved the problem. I am real busy with holiday stuff right now, but once the kids return to school and the new year settles in, this will be my first priority. I will report my activities on this site. Thanks for the Christmas gift. Jim Tyvand

electric tachometer
Posted: 2007-05-24 19:31:51.0
Posted by: 17in68
The snow is finally gone and the first nice weekend got me out in the garage. Unfortunately, this has not solved my problem. So I'm guessing the tach has become unserviceable. With Sun no longer in business, I'm kind of SOL for repairs. But thank you again for taking the time to post a suggestion.

electric tachometer
Posted: 2007-06-14 02:23:50.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
I am really disappointed that my "fix" didn't fix anything. Don't give up on your tach though. Sun tachometers have become all the rage and some folks are paying insane prices for original equipment tachs for SS Chevys. This website has information on Sun tachometers:
http://www.musclecartachs.com/

Seat Cushion Needs
Posted: 2006-08-25 22:34:04.0
Posted by: toones
I have looked through the very informative articles on upolstering seats. But in each case that the padding is an issue, it appears that kits are available.
I am working on the interior of a 64 Galaxie which, as of yet, I cannot find padding. Does anyone know of any resources or suppliers for the padding?

Seat Cushion Needs
Posted: 2006-08-29 03:30:33.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Try Dennis Carpenter products. If they don't have the pads they should know who does.

1994 F150 Transmission Slippage
Posted: 2006-08-28 17:32:32.0
Posted by: DMoore
I have a 1994 F150 with a 302 and automatic overdrive. It has 137,000 miles and starts and runs excellent. However, when driving in town around 35-40 mph, with or without the overdrive control off, the transmission feels like it slips out of gear or just slips and the engine will rev slightly until I ease off the gas and then it will go back into gear. I took it to a transmission shop and left it for a few days for them to drive. They said it did not do anything abnormal, but they did change the fluid. It didn't make any diffence. I have owned this truck for 10 years and this problem is abnormal. Any ideas?

1994 F150 Transmission Slippage
Posted: 2006-08-29 03:29:42.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
You have an AOD transmission and these are known to be extremely sensitive to the adjustment of the TV (throttle valve) cable. Your shop needs to put a pressure gauge on the transmission and make sure it's 30-35 psi at idle in neutral. If the pressure is too low (most probable, considering your truck's mileage) the control servos will slip and give symptoms very similar to what you're experiencing.

55 F250 239 Y block "pops" when decelera
Posted: 2006-08-29 20:03:35.0
Posted by: Tony
If while going about 50 MPH I let up on the gas too much I hear a series of popping sounds. Maybe backfiring through the Carb? Can someone tell me what the cause is and if it can be eliminated?

Thanks,

-Tony

55 F250 239 Y block "pops" when decelera
Posted: 2006-09-04 03:10:27.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The most likely cause is faulty timing. If you are too far advanced or retarded you can get this symptom. Also, if the vacuum advance is failing you can experience this. Vacuum leaks also are known to cause off-throttle popping.

55 T-Bird Dash
Posted: 2006-09-02 08:31:56.0
Posted by: tbird
I was reading the '55 T-Bird Resto regarding the dash removal. The article mentioned that the dash could be pulled out as one piece without taking it all apart. Can anyone tell me where I should be looking (under or above the dash) for the main bolts that hold it in?

55 T-Bird Dash
Posted: 2006-09-04 03:08:44.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
At the left and right bottom (flat)ends of the dash are single bolts that secure it to a flange on the A-pillar body sheet metal. Along the top of the dash where it meets the window (under the metal trim) are a series of long sheet-metal screws that need to be removed. Once all are out you can wrestle (the dash will probably be stuck from years in place and odd bits of adhesive) it out. Of course, all mechanical connections underneath have to be taken loose, such as the speedometer cable, heater control cables, etc.

Need bed for 54 Chevy 3800
Posted: 2006-09-04 18:18:04.0
Posted by: veener88
My father just got a 54 Chevy 3800 and the cab was just painted but the bed did not come with it. So what I am trying to do for him is get him a bed. I know the bed will only work for 1954 and only a few months into 1955. I think the bed is a 9 footer. When we measure the frame from the cab it is about 8 feet and that is to long to be the 6+ foot bed. Thanks for any help on this. I am just having a hard time trying to find this part since it seems like there are a lot of 3100 on the market but not 3800.

Thanks

Need bed for 54 Chevy 3800
Posted: 2006-12-26 16:29:09.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Try these guys;
http://mar-k.com/
They claim that if they don't already have it, they can build it. Hope they can help you.

Parts washer
Posted: 2006-09-11 09:49:04.0
Posted by: kwblankenship
What is the best fluid to use in home shop parts washer? Do water based cleaners work?

Parts washer
Posted: 2006-09-11 11:51:23.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
water based cleaners will work, but not in any quick manner. If you want to degrease grubby parts quickly you'll need to use Varsol or mineral spirits. We find metal cleaners are too caustic and smelly, not to mention expensive.

55 F250 rear end lubricant recomendation?
Posted: 2006-09-13 20:59:27.0
Posted by: Tony
The truck has a Dana 60 rearend that's draining so that I can change the cover gasket and I'm wondering what to refill with. Also, do I need to use some kind of limited slip additive in addition to the gear lube and if so how much.

55 F250 rear end lubricant recomendation?
Posted: 2006-09-14 03:57:52.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We'd recommend using synthetic gear oil (90 weight or equivalent). You can use regular gear oil as well, but synthetic doesn't precipitate out over time. If the Dana is a locking differential you need to add limited slip fluid as well. It's generally added in a ratio of 75% gear oil to 25% fluid, but the container will have instructions.

55 F250 rear end lubricant recomendation?
Posted: 2006-09-14 07:20:03.0
Posted by: Tony
At the risk of sounding like a complete idiot how can I tell if it's a "locking" differential? I believe that it's as it came from the factory in 55 if that makes any difference. Also, I used 80w-90 Castrol HYPOY C gear oil in the transmission. Can I use the same thing in the differential?

55 F250 rear end lubricant recomendation?
Posted: 2006-09-14 09:34:37.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
In all likelihood it's a non-locking differential. They were pretty rare back then. The Castrol gear oil is perfectly fine for the rear end. Locking differentials usually had a tag on them that stated the fact. Otherwise, if you look inside at the differential gears (the ones in the little housing next to the big ring gear) you will see some clutch discs next to them. They will look like big washers and there will be several of them.

55 F250 rear end lubricant recomendation?
Posted: 2006-09-14 10:15:06.0
Posted by: Tony
Thanks. You guys are the best!

After taking the cover off the gasket stuck to the housing rather the cover so I'm going to have to do some scraping. I'll be as careful as I can to keep debris out of the mechanism but wonder if I should also try to "flush" the housing before reassembly?

what's happening with restoration
Posted: 2006-09-24 18:45:00.0
Posted by: Fred
Some friends of mine and me were talking around a couple of cold beers and were talking about what's going to happen with the car restoration hobby. It seems to us that most of the restoration people are baby boomers like us and that we have an emotional attachment to the cars of the 50s and the 60s. There are less and less of them around to be restored and the cars of the 70s, 80s and 90s don't have much interest for hobbiests, with some exceptions.

We would like to hear from other car restoration fans about what they think about this. We like to think that car restoration is a healthy and growing hobby, but maybe it's days are limited.

thanks
Fred

what's happening with restoration
Posted: 2006-09-26 18:51:02.0
Posted by: tbird
I'm 27 and I've just started a '55 T-Bird. The hobby is still around, and there are plenty of people interested. I think the lack in interest is because of the rising cost....(by the way I'm taking donations :)

what's happening with restoration
Posted: 2006-12-30 13:34:59.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
I agree that cost is a big factor for a show quality restoration. But to refurbish an old car to daily driver condition is actually less expensive than owning a new car. I'm 50. My son is 11. He and I are going to start building up a car sometime next spring. By the time he heads off to college he should have a really nice ride. He will ultimately pick the car he wants to build but I am "guiding" him toward a less collectable car than the 65/66 Mustang he has his sights on at the moment.

As far as current cars that might appeal to Gen X kids later in life, I can't think of many either. Some of the European cars are nice. That Pontiac Solstice might age well. Any others?

what's happening with restoration
Posted: 2007-03-08 14:22:50.0
Posted by: phydeaux
The hobby is most certainly not dead. I am a 26 year old from Houston TX. I just bought a '65 Grand Prix that cranks and runs for $1000.00. It was too good of a deal to pass up. I'm not looking to show the vehicle but I would like to restore it into a quality daily driver. I would like to aim for a little speed but not too much. If you drive too fast, nobody will ever see your beautiful car. I suppose the reason I'm into this era of vehicle would be due to the simple fact that they still knew how to build a quality vehicle back then. Cars today are an extension of your pocketbook and not your personality. A '65 Grand Prix is most certainly ALL personality. Last thought Fred, It's not a hobby, it's a way of life that we need to hold onto and cherish forever. If we don't teach what we know, all we have learned is worth nothing.

Holley 94 carb rebuild or replace?
Posted: 2006-09-25 19:30:01.0
Posted by: Tony
I noticed a "gassy" smell after turning off my truck and found that about 30 seconds after shutting it off gas starts dripping off the carburator throttle linkage onto the intake manifold. It doesn't drip fast just a couple of drops a minute for a couple of minutes. There doesn't seem to be any dripping while the engine is running just after shutting it off. So... I'm wondering where the gas is coming from. Is there enough left on the carb walls after turning off the engine to seep through a worn throttle shaft opening. I tried wiggling the throttle shaft and it didn't seem to have any play. Could the float level be off causing an overflow after shutting off the engine? Also what are the chances that a rebuild will fix the problem or should I just replace the carb?

Holley 94 carb rebuild or replace?
Posted: 2006-09-27 10:51:39.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Carburetors typically held from 1/2 cup to 1 cup of fuel in the float bowl. As they aged the vent holes would plug up and after the engine shut off the overall temperature rises. This causes the fuel to expand and find its way out the idle jets onto the throttle shaft or other outlets. A rebuild should fix the problem, but if the carburetor has more than about 90,000 miles on it you should consider a replacement.

'55 T-Bird Dash
Posted: 2006-09-26 18:55:41.0
Posted by: tbird
Does anyone know how to remove the misc. control knobs on the dash? I know that a bezel tool is needed for the chrome portion but I need to remove the knobs first. Thanks.

'55 T-Bird Dash
Posted: 2006-09-27 10:49:08.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The knobs have little tiny set-screws in them. Jeweler's screwdrivers work fine. The radio knobs should pull off.

'55 T-Bird Dash
Posted: 2006-10-07 09:23:15.0
Posted by: redbird55
I believe that the light switch has a bottom on the switch. Pull to on position and mash the button to release the handle.

55 Olds 324-v8 Engine Help
Posted: 2006-09-28 12:04:43.0
Posted by: 55olds
I'm trying to have the original 324 rebuilt for a reasonable price and can't find a kit any less than $1500 and this does not include any machine work that will need to be done. I was hoping to be able to buy some off the shelf parts(Napa,Carquest etc.) like pistons, cam that would fit the 324 engine with some minor machine work. any help would be appreciated!

55 Olds 324-v8 Engine Help
Posted: 2006-09-29 06:05:05.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
You are confronting the typical problem encountered in owners of "non mainstream" cars, those that don't have a large population of collectors. Try Jasper Engines to see if they offer an exchange for your engine. If not they will probably rebuild it for around $2000 and give you a 2-year warranty. Other than that you might try looking into a Hollander Exchange Manual for 1955 (they should be online) and see what other engines used common parts.

brakes
Posted: 2006-10-07 09:00:28.0
Posted by: bear
I have a 1946 Chev. pkup. I did a complete brake overhaul,but now when I hook up the emergency brake bar the rear brakes will not work.

brakes
Posted: 2006-12-27 20:02:36.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
There is a Delco Brakes Manual on the Old Car Manuals site:
http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Delco/1949/1949DelcoBrakesManual/index.html

When you say the brakes "will not work" I am guessing that they won't release? Try putting maximum slack in at the adjusters for the cables and then connect the hardware fully and see if you still have the problem. You won't have a parking brake yet but the hydraulics should work fine. Remove slack until there is no freeplay in the cables and that should be it.

I am assuming again that the brakes were working fine before you connected the parking brake cables? If so, then certainly the problem is with the cable setup. If you didn't check the brakes until after you connected the parking brake, disconnect it and make sure all four wheels are adjusted up and bled before you reconnect the parking brake.

In general, if it worked before you fixed it, the problem is something you did. That is not always the case but true 99% of the time. Let us know what fixes it.

1955 t-bird
Posted: 2006-10-07 09:20:23.0
Posted by: redbird55
I am planning to replace the old steering wheel that is 17" in diameter and get one that is only about 15" wide. Can anyone recommend one or the supplier of one that is designed to work on my bird?
Thanks
Ron

1955 t-bird
Posted: 2007-01-08 22:29:28.0
Posted by: werace
Try lmctruck.com

primer question
Posted: 2006-10-07 17:31:08.0
Posted by: Fred
I got a little ahead of myself last year and bought a can of primer. The can has never been opened, and is a little over a year old. Can I still use it? What happens to the paint to make it bad?
Thanx
Fred

primer question
Posted: 2006-10-08 05:54:54.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
You shouldn't have any problem with the primer other than thoroughly mixing it, since the solids have settled out. It sould last several years unopened. Over longer periods of time the chemical agents start to break down and it becomes unusable.

1955 t-bird engine change
Posted: 2006-10-08 08:07:40.0
Posted by: redbird55
Does anyone have any thoughts on installing a 302 CI Ford engine and trans in my 55 bird. The original 292 has been replaced with a 312 and is hooked to a 3-speed tranny. I would like to have an auto trans and a smoother running engine.

Thanks
Ron

1955 t-bird engine change
Posted: 2006-10-09 03:10:45.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Over the years we've seen many different engines installed in the T-Birds and all seem to work out fine. There's no reason a 302 won't drop in, along with a mating transmission (our project car has an AOD). All you need to do is come up with motor mounts, locate them and weld the proper brackets to the frame.

1974 Dodge ambulance
Posted: 2006-10-13 07:46:25.0
Posted by: emstc
I was given an ambulance and I would like hints and advise on restoring this to its orginal condition. It is one of a hundred brought in the early 70's with a grant and so far it is the only one in running condition. I want to restore it so I can display it at EMS conventions

1974 Dodge ambulance
Posted: 2006-10-14 06:45:19.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
There's really nothing different about restoring an ambulance vs a car. It's all about drivetrain/accessories/electrical/body/paint/trim. All these things, along with procedures, are covered in our archives.

fender tag
Posted: 2006-10-13 13:45:58.0
Posted by: fastbird
I have a roadrunner that does not have the fender tag. Is there a company where I can get another?

fender tag
Posted: 2006-12-26 16:10:07.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Try here:
http://www.gvgovier.com/
Looks complicated. Good luck.

55 T-Bird engine color
Posted: 2006-10-23 11:22:04.0
Posted by: olar
What is the correct engine color for the 312 in 1955 and where can I purchase a good quality product in that color.
Thanks
Corey

55 T-Bird engine color
Posted: 2006-10-25 03:44:15.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Your best bet is to contact a T-Bird club and ask about this on their technical forum. someone always knows this sort of thing and where to get the paint.

1948 Chevy Stylemaster ?
Posted: 2006-10-23 19:20:06.0
Posted by: grady156
I have a 1948 Chevy Stylemaster with the 216 inline 6 that I am restoring. I have recently gotten my motor back from the machine shop and I have to put it in time. I do not have any idea as to how this is done because of the age of this motor. The only thing I know is that there is a timing ball on the flywheel but I dont know what to line it up with. I would appreciate any help that you can provide me. Thank you.

1948 Chevy Stylemaster ?
Posted: 2007-01-08 22:27:55.0
Posted by: werace
Grady, I would turn the motor over until the #1 cylinder is at Top. Then look to make sure the rotor is pointing at the #1 cylinder. The engine should start and after a good warm up adjust your carb air screw then the idle. Then you can adjust the distributer or have someone with machanical know how help with the actual timing. Good Luck, Steve

surface rust
Posted: 2006-10-26 09:20:57.0
Posted by: Fred
My 56 Ford has some surface rust on the roof. It's not real serious, but the surface if pretty rough. I think it's too rough to fill using primer/surfacer. What's the best way to fix this?

Fred

surface rust
Posted: 2006-10-26 13:12:32.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Sand the area with 100 grit to get to the bare metal, then follow up with 220 grit. Treat any pitted areas with metal prep (phosphoric acid) and then spread bondo (mix in a little fiberglass resin to make the consistency like mayonnaise) when it's dry. Sand the filler with 220 and then go ahead with primer/surfacer.

1956 ford customline needs 2 stop!
Posted: 2006-11-05 04:27:43.0
Posted by: 56 custom
My 56 Ford Customline is in need of some stopping power. I would like front disc brakes but have no idea where 2 look for brake kits. I want the whole system, master cylinder, rotors, calipers and so forth. but everywhere i look all they have is chevy parts for that year. is there a site that would have specific parts for this car. please help

1956 ford customline needs 2 stop!
Posted: 2006-11-05 06:28:37.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Concours Parts has a complete kit for about $900 and there are lots of other providers of components, if not complete kits. Check Ebay as well and search under "disc brakes for 56 ford."

welding floor pans
Posted: 2006-11-05 08:57:55.0
Posted by: birds4ever
Did a search of your forum and did not find this topic. Odd, I thought this would have already been covered.

When welding in the new floor pans, it has been said that the "pro's" will butt weld. I understand that this method is a very clean way to do it and looks great. My concern is that a weld will create rust and break along side of it.

I am trying to weigh out the logic and would like some input on this debate.

It would make sense that an overlap (1 1/2 to 2 inches) with seam and plug welds would be stronger. The welds would not have as much stress on them, and if they did rust and break, the integrity of the overlap with plug welds is still in place. However, the issue of moisture setting into the overlap will cause rust problems as well down the road a few years. Possibly, if the overlap is treated with products like POR15 (or equivalent) the rust issue would not become one so soon.

Both methods have pros and cons. What is your input?

welding floor pans
Posted: 2006-11-06 04:04:55.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
You make a good point. Butt welds work fine structurally but are sensitive to the proper heat setting. Too much current weakens the surrounding metal and too little makes a bad joint. Once done, they should be ground or wire-brushed clean and then prepped and painted or spread with sealer. Overlap joints (we generally prefer to weld this way when able to do so) are much stronger and somewhat easier to line up and perform, but it's critical to get sealant into any non-welded joints to prevent moisture. We usually flush the finished joints with metal-prep and, when dry, seal and paint.

painting in less than good conditions
Posted: 2006-11-07 06:00:30.0
Posted by: Fred
I'm ready to put some primer on my car. Most paint instructions say its best to paint when its 70 degrees. It's now in the mid 60s where I live. What problems will I be making for my self if I go ahead and put down some primer?

Fred

painting in less than good conditions
Posted: 2006-11-07 11:25:00.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We find most automotive paints can be sprayed in temps as low as 50 degrees (the body's surface temp, not only the ambient air) but the curing time is longer. That also means that the "flash time" between coats will be longer as well. If it's in the mid 60s when you paint you shouldn't have any real concerns.

Distributor install
Posted: 2006-11-07 08:35:43.0
Posted by: David57Chevy
Hello all, new to this site. I am restoring a 57 Chevy 150 2 dr sedan and I am finishing up on the chassis now. Been spending lots of time with the engine. I have a 75 Vette 350 rebuilt by a shop in RI. It was not completed but it is mostly there. I am getting ready to install the dist. a MSD #8360. I understand that I need the #1 piston to be at TDC (compression)and I know how to find that. Once that is done does it matter how the dist. is aligned? Or does it simply go in as you line it up to the oil pump gear? I have a 4 barrel manifold that has many vacuum ports which one would be a good choice for the dist. vacuum source?

Distributor install
Posted: 2006-11-07 11:29:48.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
It only matters where the vacuum advance on the distributor points when installed, as you want to make sure it's accessible. Remember that your #1 cylinder has to be at the timing mark on the top of the compression stroke (intake and exhaust valves at their resting positions) before setting in the distributor. Once you're ready to drop in the distributor you have to rotate it so that the #1 plug wire is facing the rotor once everything is in place. The best vacuum port to use for your distributor is one on the carburetor itself, preferably one below the throttle plate unless your MSD instructions say otherwise.

painting primer
Posted: 2006-11-09 12:29:13.0
Posted by: Bunky
I don't have a air compressor. Is primer in a spray can good enough to use? I'm having someone else do the finished painting.

Bunky

painting primer
Posted: 2006-11-15 19:20:21.0
Posted by: Big_John
I'd look at some of the new roll on primers that can be applied with a foam roller. I think Dupont offers some.

painting primer
Posted: 2006-11-09 13:00:04.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
any primer is better than none, so in that sense you can use spray cans. Make sure you get a good quality etching primer and don't be stingy with the application. We'd guess that you'll use a dozen cans or so.

1988 Cadillac Eldorado Electronic Dash etc.
Posted: 2006-11-09 19:46:53.0
Posted by: Sugardogger
I am putting together a good running 1988 Caddy Eldorado that had no dash electronics. So far I have checked all fuses, fusible links and relays, all are in operable order. I have replaced the Body control computer, constant power supply, and driver information center with with used units. I now have a dash display that reads all zeros and the driver info center reads "SYSTEM PROBLEM". There seems to be no info input from vehicle speed, fuel tank, and the climate control console won't power up. The Caddy has self diagnostics but they are accessedthrough the climate control console which won"t power up. Any ideas please advise, Thanks.

1988 Cadillac Eldorado Electronic Dash etc.
Posted: 2006-12-26 15:22:37.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
The key is that the AC Module is not powering up. I had an '88 DeVille and I think the systems are very similar. If so, the BCM and the AC module "talk" to one another. The message you are getting is telling you that it can't continue because the AC module is not responding. If you can't find one at your local Pick-A-Parts, this going to be a very expensive repair. If you don't have the GM Service Manual for this car, try searching eBay for "1988 Cadillac Manual". I had one for my Caddy and it was worth it's weight in gold. I paid $10 for it on eBay.

1988 Cadillac Eldorado Electronic Dash etc.
Posted: 2006-12-27 12:11:04.0
Posted by: Sugardogger
Many thanks to sdewolfe for the reply, fortunately, I have the factory service manual, electrical schematics, and a donor car with operable compnents. Some recent troubleshooting narrowed the causes to data link problem between the AC programmer and the Driver info center. Driver info center is operable, intend to swap out BCM, AC programmer, and Constant power supply. Then should be able to download and clear any trouble codes and everything should power up normally. Again, thanks alot for all your help.

1951 Buick
Posted: 2006-11-14 13:08:02.0
Posted by: willy498
Looking for a starter relay. Foot feet activated and won't work. I think it needs a new relay. Any ideas on where I might find it?

1951 Buick
Posted: 2006-12-26 10:00:29.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Try these guys. They have a lot of stuff.

http://www.oldbuickparts.com

'42 chevy pickup restoration
Posted: 2006-11-14 18:56:51.0
Posted by: rustycamp
I've got a '42 Chevy pickup that's been sitting in a field for 30 years.Most of the engine is there but much of the cosmetics are missing (ie. trim,windows, mirrors, headlights, interior, etc...). It doesn't have any
serious rust but there is some fender damage. How much can I expect to spend to get it road worthy? I can do some of the minor work myself. But it's the major stuff (engine, tranny, body work,etc...) that I don't know much about.
I'm more interested in just being able to drive it for the time being. At some point in the future I'd like to restore it close to original. For now, I just want something unique to drive. Any suggestions? Thanks. Rusty

'42 chevy pickup restoration
Posted: 2007-01-08 22:20:08.0
Posted by: werace
Rusty, Get yourself a copy of the LMC Truck parts catalog. It's free and it should have a lot of the parts you will need. I hope your truck fall into that catagory.
The web site is lmctruck.com
look for the FREE catalog and good luck. Steve

'42 chevy pickup restoration
Posted: 2006-11-15 06:02:31.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
As for your engine, it it will turn over (by hand or starter) you can probably get it running without taking it apart. The cooling system will need to be flushed and hoses/belts, etc. replaced. The fuel lines need to be blown out with air and the tank cleaned of any sediment and the carburetor taken apart and cleaned or rebuilt. Having all that done for you can easily cost $1000. Cosmetics don't need to be attended to unless they relate to safety (lights, etc.) and comfort.
The brake system needs to be thoroughly redone, so figure another $500+ depending upon parts.
The transmission shouldn't be in bad condition but you should drain the gear oil and replace it. Do the same for the rear end. Tires should be replaced and front bearings repacked. The steering box should be looked at for proper lubrication.
Figure on spending at least $2000 to get it roadworthy and another $5000 to get it reasonably decent looking.

Auto Body Training Workshops?
Posted: 2006-11-18 17:52:19.0
Posted by: dgagne
Hi,
I am thinking of starting to offer prefessionally taught auto body training seminars geared at the hobbyist and restoration.
I am trying to get a feel for the market before I start offering them. I am thinking to start with 2-3 day worksops - welding, fixing dents, rust, paint...
What do you think? Is this a service you would be interested in paying for if it was available?
Thanks for your opinion.
Derek


Edited on Nov 20, 2006 21:02

Auto Body Training Workshops?
Posted: 2006-11-20 08:07:06.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
That's a good question. Our experience is that such services are terrific ideas but it's very hard to get "takers." We teach classes in restoration, automotive theory, etc., and these are routinely cancelled due to low sign-up rates, even in large metropolitan areas. When the classes do convene it doesn't seem to bother the students if they are charged a typical adult-ed fee ($75 or so in the Washington DC area). Let us know if you proceed. If it takes off we'll write a feature about it.

Auto Body Training Workshops?
Posted: 2006-11-20 21:06:58.0
Posted by: dgagne
That's interesting, how do you market the courses and where do you offer them? I will take you up on the feature when it takes off. We are planning to open in the summer of 2007.
Thanks,
Derek

Auto Body Training Workshops?
Posted: 2006-11-21 03:46:48.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The courses are marketed in the local county's adult ed catalog. The school system will offer any course as long as it's written up in the form of a short description. They figure a cost based on the number of classes required and then offer it. If enough students sign up the class goes as scheduled. They continue to offer it each semester whether or not a class is filled, assuming it will be eventually.

Auto Body Training Workshops?
Posted: 2006-12-26 08:18:58.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Hello SCG Staff,

I think part of the reason you have a low turn out is because those who would signup never see the Continuing Education papers that local schools print. I see one of these maybe twice a year and I look for them! Have you thought about a wider ad campaign? Maybe send an email to every club in the local area offering to speak at one of their meetings? When I was involved in a local club we were constantly looking for speakers. One thing you know for certain is that everyone at the meeting is a car guy.
Regards,

Shannon

Painting 55 Ford F100
Posted: 2006-11-23 19:08:09.0
Posted by: electronic_man00
I am getting the truck ready for paint. Having to take it down to the metal. What is a good paint stripper to use? Sanding takes way too long plus their is several coats of paint (five including primers) What is the best and easiest glacing putty to use? If I ever get it ready to paint what type and brand of paint should i use to get an orignal look with out spending big $$$? This is my first paint job so it needs to be something easy to use. Thanks!

How to figure ohms for coil resistor
Posted: 2006-11-28 08:48:50.0
Posted by: missouriron
I have a 54 Ford F-100 with a 59 small block Chevy engine. I have 11 votes across the resistor between the battery and coil. The existing resistor ohms out at 1 ohm. How many ohms do I need to drop the voltage to the coil to the 6/7 volt range?

How to figure ohms for coil resistor
Posted: 2006-11-30 06:23:56.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
you need a 2 ohm resistor that can handle the proper wattage, hence the fact that the dropping resistor is a ceramic-mounted, wire-wound type. If you can't find a 2 ohm, put another 1 ohm resistor in series.

How to figure ohms for coil resistor
Posted: 2006-11-30 06:49:50.0
Posted by: missouriron
I appreciate your quick response. I'm sure that I can find the correct resistor.

Thanks

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