SCG Classic Car Forum Archive - Page 5

door pulls
Posted: 2006-04-09 18:50:56.0
Posted by: daytown
ok i'm asking a silly question but, did the 1949 suburban have door locks? if so what did the door pulls look like.

door pulls
Posted: 2006-04-09 19:21:08.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The Standard Catalog of American Light-Duty Trucks does not list door locks as options or dealer accessories for the 1949 Suburban. However, a search for 1949 Suburban on the Jim Carter Classic Parts website (http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cgi/htmlos.exe/start.htm) shows "Door Lock Slide Clip 1947-51 Holds lock assembly in door. GM quality used. Our price $7.00 each" (http://secure.call-kc.com/jct/search/search.asp?keysearch1=usa)

You might want to contact Jim Carter Classic Parts for clarification. Unfortunately, we don't have any photos for reference.

Good Luck!

Rebuilding 1952 chevy 6 volt generator
Posted: 2006-04-13 19:33:47.0
Posted by: jmclitus
I am thinking about buying a rebuid kit and attempting to rebuild my 6 volt generator. Is this a difficult task? Am I better off finding someone who can do this professionally and spend the money? Thanks in advance.

Rebuilding 1952 chevy 6 volt generator
Posted: 2006-04-17 06:10:03.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
If you've never done one before you will find it interesting and reasonably simple. However, we will assume by your question that you don't have the test equipment to determine the condition of the armature and field windings. Also, if the commutator and shaft faces (bearing) needs to be dressed by a lathe you'll need to look into that problem as well.
We'd advise you take it apart and look it over just to familiarize yourself with the parts. Then take it to a shop and ask if you can watch the work.

Frame restoration
Posted: 2006-04-17 11:18:02.0
Posted by: pete415273
I am almost done disassembling my 67 GTO and ready to send the frame off. I was wondering what the best way to treat a frame was. Should I just sandblast and paint, or is it better to chemically treat and hot tank. Also, opinions on powder coat or paint. I am sure there's lots of rust and dirt inside the frame that sandblasting won't remove. Also I hear it may damage the frame.

Frame restoration
Posted: 2006-04-18 03:49:37.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
By far the best way to treat a frame is hot-tank and chemical treatment. It's also the most expensive, of course, but it takes away all the agents that build up inside to rot the metal. Painting the finished metal is perfectly adequate protection, but if powdercoating is inexpensive for you it will take less time and provide more chip resistance.
We've generally scraped, sandblasted and wire-brushed frames and then sprayed rust preventive (phosphoric acid) into the cavities. This is not as thorough as hot-tanking but far, far less expensive.

Carpet, is there a good dye?
Posted: 2006-04-19 14:53:38.0
Posted by: 117329
I don't want to have to change the carpet in my 84 sierra, is there a good dye that will change the color to black from brown without coming out too flat? Also, would it work on the headliner if so?

Carpet, is there a good dye?
Posted: 2006-04-20 03:47:45.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We've tried dyes and fabric sprays over the years and not found anything very effective. Even when the colors come out good they tend to fade in sunlight pretty quickly. Your best bet is to get new carpet and headliner and an auto upholstery shop. They aren't expensive.

Dwell problem
Posted: 2006-04-20 23:28:09.0
Posted by: dualpoint
Thanks for the info,I was thinking of going for the HEI distributor soon.

Dwell problem
Posted: 2006-04-19 20:16:59.0
Posted by: dualpoint
I just picked up a 1965 chevy truck with a 283 in it. The engine will only run with the dwell way low at 9 degrees. The timing wants to be at 20 BTDC. Any change in either it wants to die, it runs poorly anyway. If I take the play out of the timing chain by turning it counter-clockwise and then turning it clockwise the rotor does not move until The crank has moved 12 or so degrees. Bad distributor, timing chain, both? The engine runs smoothly at higher RPM.

Dwell problem
Posted: 2006-04-20 03:45:59.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
It would appear that the timing chain needs to be replaced. The distributor would be bad if you can move the center shaft side to side. Check for vacuum leaks after you do the repairs.

Dwell problem
Posted: 2006-04-20 10:53:46.0
Posted by: dualpoint
The timing chain is what I thought too. The distributor has no side play,just some up and down as usual. But I thought that the distributor, if good, should still get the correct dwell when adjusted. When I set it to .019" the dwell should have been at 28-32 degrees anyway. The engine doesn't have to be running to read dwell, just spinning the dist. should give a reading. Could the dist. still be suspect? Thanks, Terry

Dwell problem
Posted: 2006-04-20 11:51:45.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
.019 is just the theoretical distance the contacts are apart to give 28-32 degrees. However, if the points' spring tension is low or the contacts themselves are high resistance all bets are off. Try a new set of points and you should get a proper dwell.

55 T-Bird
Posted: 2006-05-23 21:37:10.0
Posted by: willreed03
I converted my stock points style distributor to a Pertronix and it made a difference. Pretty easy conversion too.

55 T-Bird
Posted: 2006-04-20 05:50:48.0
Posted by: Eddie Paskey
What are you using for a distributor and what do you think about the Petronic change over?? Thanks Eddie

55 T-Bird
Posted: 2006-04-20 06:14:00.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The distributor is a stock unit that is converted to Pertronix. It works perfectly and delivers a great spark. Points are not acceptable these days, due to weaker spark and corrosion due to infrequent use.

dual intake for ford 226 flathead/engine numbers
Posted: 2006-04-20 16:08:29.0
Posted by: 49flatford
Does anyone know where i could find a dual intake for my Flathead 6 Cyl 226 cid?

7H-8050 C2 is on the head, does anyone know what the C2 stands for?

dual intake for ford 226 flathead/engine numbers
Posted: 2006-04-20 18:05:19.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We haven't been able to come up with a dual carburetor intake for a six, but check out http://www.vintagespeed.com/. They have a Y adapter that lets you put 2 Stromberg 97's or Holly 94's on a single barrel intake manifold.

50 ford restoration
Posted: 2006-04-21 13:36:21.0
Posted by: BMF
I'm looking for 50 ford tudor restoration parts. Please post names of companies you know of that deal in these parts. Thanks

50 ford restoration
Posted: 2006-04-21 13:40:50.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
A simple search on Google brought up many companies. Try Dennis Carpenter.

Hudson weather striping, and rubber parts
Posted: 2006-04-21 13:38:00.0
Posted by: BMF
What do you all do when reproduction rubber parts arent available?

Hudson weather striping, and rubber parts
Posted: 2006-04-21 13:45:41.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
As mentioned in the posting above, try the Hudson-Essex-Terraplane club. They most likely can provide you with leads to find the parts you need.

Flood damaged car warnings
Posted: 2006-04-21 13:47:15.0
Posted by: BMF
I see all the messages warning about flood damaged cars, but I cant find them. I would like to know if there are places to purchase brand new flood damaged cars for super low prices. With the current price of chevy LS motors flood damaged cars might be a good source for rebuildable parts, besides there are alot of other things that could be re-used brakes, & wheels for example. Are the Manufacturers all forced to wreck these vehicles out, or is there some place these can be purchased for super low prices?

Flood damaged car warnings
Posted: 2006-04-22 03:37:50.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We don't know of sources for such cars because they tend to get "absorbed" into the wholesale market. You might try contacting dealerships along the Gulf coast and ask what they did (or are doing) with the damaged cars.

TIMING CHAIN TYPES
Posted: 2006-04-21 16:56:19.0
Posted by: dualpoint
Is the roller chain really that much better than the leaf type ?

TIMING CHAIN TYPES
Posted: 2006-04-22 03:36:29.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Roller chains allow the engine to rev faster and they do tend to last a long time, but normal chains work extremely well and are incredibly inexpensive.

Removing rust from door locks
Posted: 2006-04-21 18:26:58.0
Posted by: jmacmac30
I've got light surface rust on the door locks of my car, and was wondering what's the best way to remove it without damaging the paint/finish on the door itself.

It's a newer car (2002 Porsche Boxster) if that helps.

Thanks in advance!

-James

Removing rust from door locks
Posted: 2006-04-22 03:35:05.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
You might try using Soft Scrub cleanser. It won't harm paint and should take off the rust with some rubbing.

FREE GENERAL AUTOMOTIVE DIAGRAMS
Posted: 2006-04-30 06:14:54.0
Posted by: moonshine
Hi folks,

I have almost every car manual published but most all are water damaged. Without buying them all again, I would like to find a few diagrams for some friends and me.

Is this type information available on a free site. I've been searching the net for hours and found nothing.

Specifically, I need a good, general automotive charging diagram showing the alternator, full wave SCR bridge rectifier, etc. Also needed is a simple diagram showing the inner workings of a solenoid. Additionally, I need the spark timing for a 1990 Dodge Ram B250 van with a 318 cid engine.

I do not make money helping friends needing auto repair.

Thanks much

Earl Moon

FREE GENERAL AUTOMOTIVE DIAGRAMS
Posted: 2006-04-30 07:01:48.0
Posted by: satch
Hi Earl:

You might try http://www.oldcarmanual.com. They have tons of scanned in ads, assembly manuals, service manuals, books, etc. It might take awhile to find what you're looking for, (and they may not have it), but they do list a lot of stuff.

Satch

Vacuum Advance
Posted: 2006-05-02 09:36:03.0
Posted by: dualpoint
I am going to replace my stock points distributor with an HEI on my stock 283. Is it necessary to have a vacuum advance for better idle/fuel economy ?

Vacuum Advance
Posted: 2006-05-03 03:25:06.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We would recommend you have one, since all you could rely on without it is the centrifugal advance. HEI's are/were generally used with fuel injection and computer controls which don't require advance mechanisms.

Removal of DIY Bed Liner
Posted: 2006-05-02 20:19:54.0
Posted by: 1966F100
I recently purchased a 1966 Ford F100 pickup for a restoration project. Overall, the truck is in very good shape. However, the previous owner thought it would be a good idea to apply one of these do-it-yourself "paint-on" bed liners. According to the previous owner, he picked up this bed coating kit at a local auto parts store and midway through the application process (after completing the sides of the bed), his sprayer "gave out". So, he finished the bottom of the bed by applying the thick (tar-like) bed coating with a paint roller. Now (several months later), the coating is brittle, cracking, and flaking off in numerous areas in the bottom of the bed (where it was rolled-on rather than sprayed-on). This is occurring primarily in the troughs/valleys between the raised ridges in the bottom of the bed, where the coating appears to have been applied more thickly. Obviously, there was a problem in surface prepartion, coating application, or both. Regardless, it's now my problem. I have looked into alternative solutions for fixing this problem. I have considered repairing the coating by removing all of the cracked/flaked liner material with a plastic paint scraper and properly reapplying the coating in the bare areas. Unfortunately, the previous owner can't remember the brand of bed liner coating kit he used (and there are several manufacturers for these kits, each with their own unique formulation - meaning that if I choose the wrong one, it may not bond to the existing coating in the bed). I have also considered removing as much of the defectively applied coating as I can and having a nice Rhino lining installed over the entire bed, but I'll just bet that my local Rhino lining dealer would not be willing to apply their product over someone else's due to warranty/liability considerations. So, that brings me to my last hope of restoring the bed of this truck, which I believe is complete removal of this bed coating. The question is how to go about it. From what I've read about these coatings on the internet, there is no effective solvent or chemical remover that would be effective on them. I suppose a belt sander might work (as I read about elsewhere on this site). However, even that may not work so well with the irregular surfaces on the bottom of the bed. As such, I appeal to the brain trust on this site to help me out and give me some ideas (for which I would ever be so grateful). Thank you, Bob

Removal of DIY Bed Liner
Posted: 2006-05-03 03:23:20.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We've never needed to do what you are attempting, but we have had a number of experiences with trying to get weird substances off of metal. It's an empiricle exercise, in that you need to get a few chemical strippers and test areas on the bed. One of them will be effective, if not particularly fast. Another approach would be to contact all the known bedliner companies on the internet and ask what solvents will remove their product. Since the liner came from one of them your chances of getting the right material will be pretty good. The last resort, of course, is to use coarse abrasives and grind it off.

53 F100 Gauge Problem
Posted: 2006-05-08 04:36:00.0
Posted by: lanceerwin
OK, thanks. I did check it and it's 7.5 volts at speeds up to 40 mph, and starts climbing after that, reaching over 8.2v at 50 mph, so it seems it's the Voltage Regulator.

The truck was changed to Negative ground (instead of the original Positive ground) by the previous owner - I think the coil wire, battery cable and ammeter cable routing are changed - anyway, would this change the way I install (wiring or polarization) a Positive Ground Voltage Regulator?

Thanks!

53 F100 Gauge Problem
Posted: 2006-05-04 18:12:44.0
Posted by: lanceerwin
Hi All,
I've been rewiring a '53 Ford F100 (6 Volt, Generator), and am having trouble with the Oil and Fuel Gauges running high. I have already replaced the sending units and wiring - ok there. I did not buy a harness, but used what I thought was proper gauge wire - and larger if in doubt.
I have found that the voltage coming from the back of the ignition switch with the truck off and switch to "on" is 6.5 volts, but with the truck running, it's 7.5 volts.
I am wondering what voltage the gauges were originally meant to work on. I found a reference in an old Chilton manual that mentions "5 volts" - but it's not mentioned in the '53 Ford Shop Manual. Also not mentioned in the shop manual - or in ANY of the parts catalogs I've seen, is a "Voltage Stabilizer" that is shown for later years ('57 and later I think).
The back of my instrument panel does NOT have any kind of resistor or voltage stabilizer. Does anyone know if the ORIGINAL 6 volt trucks had such a thing (?) or if the gauges were meant to run off of 6 volts?
Does anyone know what voltage the later model years "Voltage Stabilizer" drops the voltage to? Is it 6 volts or 5 volts or does it just "half" the expected 12 volts? I was wondering if I could use one of these ... if it would only allow the expected proper voltage through (5 or 6 volts?) or if it would just "half" whatever it got, etc...?
Another piece of information, a friend made a "resistor" to drop the voltage from 6.5 to around 5, and it seems to work until I get past 40 mph - at 45, the oil pressure starts going past the "normal" 50# and at 50 mph it's at nearly 80#. So am wondering if I also have an issue with the Voltage regulator. I have not checked the voltage off the back of the ignition switch at 45-50 mph yet to see if it's still 7.5...
Any thoughts or suggestions?

53 F100 Gauge Problem
Posted: 2006-05-08 03:42:52.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The chances are that the gauge runs off the normal 6 volt system and that the voltage regulator is not properly adjusted. Check the output at higher engine speed and you'll probably see greater than 7.5 volts. Ford sedans had voltage stabilizers under the dash, but we don't know for sure whether the trucks did.

62 falcon futura engine & tran
Posted: 2006-05-05 07:38:11.0
Posted by: fordfalcon
Hello everyone,,

I would like some suggestions for a newbie. I've a falcon that has the engine apart and tran taken out. It ran about 5 years ago, then someone took it apart to redo it. Anyway I would like to finish what he started. Do you have suggestions for walking into a project. Any kits or places to find parts, an old junkyard in Eastern PA, I don't know if everything is there or not. Thanks for the help.

62 falcon futura engine & tran
Posted: 2006-05-05 08:05:20.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The good news is that Falcon parts are very easy to come by. You need to assess what the engine needs (lay out the parts and see what's missing) and then decide whether to rebuild or buy a rebuilt one from an engine remanufacturing company. The transmission is also handled the same way, but if it's automatic you're better off getting a rebuilt one.
As for the whole project, get a falcon parts book from one of the supplier companies and go through it to see what you don't have. Some suppliers are: www.falconparts.com, www.nwfalcon.com; www.autokrafters.com; www.melvinsclassicfordparts.com

Charging System
Posted: 2006-05-05 15:01:55.0
Posted by: dualpoint
I noticed my battery sounds like it is bubbling/sizzling after a short warm up. The voltage at idle is about 14+volts, when I crack the throttle it jumps off scale 16++volts. Is the regulator at fault, am I at fault? What type of readings/diagnosis do I or the charging system need? This is a 1965 Chevy 283 with an alternator.

Charging System
Posted: 2006-05-08 03:39:12.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
When a battery makes bubbling/sizzling sounds it's definitely running hot. This is potentially dangerous because it is generating hydrogen gas, making an explosion quite possible. Battery explosions are very, very messy and sometimes can destroy the engine compartment with a combination of fire and acid.
Your alternator is overcharging for sure, so you need to replace the voltage regulator as soon as possible. You shouldn't drive the car in the meantime because, in addition to the battery danger, the light bulbs and other electric devices might be ruined.

Vacuum lines for a 1951 Cadillac
Posted: 2006-05-17 03:26:32.0
Posted by: fititis
I have a series 75 fleetwood limo which has two vacuum lines one for windshiel washer and wipers (from the same line via a T connector)from intake manifold and another one sealed in my car taking suction from the fuel pump. I have the shop manual and the supplement but nothing is mentioned does anyone have an idea

Vacuum lines for a 1951 Cadillac
Posted: 2006-05-17 04:50:49.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The vacuum line coming from the fuel pump is almost certainly a vapor recovery line that is supposed to go to a charcoal canister. The line under your dash is most likely a vacuum line used to operate something in the HVAC system that your limo may, or may not, have. If nothing is malfunctioning in the car you should leave it alone.

Vacuum lines for a 1951 Cadillac
Posted: 2006-05-17 12:31:23.0
Posted by: fititis
I dont know what a charcoal canister is and what do the initials HVAC stand for Thank you for your precious advice

Vacuum lines for a 1951 Cadillac
Posted: 2006-05-18 03:55:34.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Charcoal canisters were introduced in 1971 on all cars. They use the vacuum system to grab the gasoline vapors and keep them in the fuel system, rather than allow them to vent to the atomosphere. The canisters would trap the fumes and condense them and allow the liquid to go back to the tank.
HVAC stands for Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning system.

Vacuum lines for a 1951 Cadillac
Posted: 2006-05-18 15:07:10.0
Posted by: fititis
Dear Sir my car is a 1951 model not 1971 did you made a mistake or you havent noticed the year if this is true do you have any other ideas of what it may be

Vacuum lines for a 1951 Cadillac
Posted: 2006-05-22 04:55:56.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Sorry, we read your question as a '75 model car, not a 75 Series 1951 car. If there's a vacuum line going to the fuel pump it should mean that your car had a double-action fuel pump originally. The routing of the vacuum hoses would be from the pump to the intake and also to the wipers, but we don't have any routing diagrams for your car. You might try to contact a regional Cadillac club, as many members have detailed information.

Vacuum lines for a 1951 Cadillac
Posted: 2006-05-22 16:31:51.0
Posted by: fititis
Dear Sir

I dont understand the reason why the fuel pump needs the vacuum from the intake manifold. Also how the wipers take the vacuum via a T connector or via a seperate vacuum line have in mind that the windshield washer takes vacuum from the same line via a T connector from the wipers line. In Greece we dont have Cadillac or other makers clubs as the cars are very few there is just one club for all classic cars divided in sports cars sedans etc. Thanks

Chrome Plating Removal
Posted: 2006-05-20 09:39:00.0
Posted by: tecrekka
I am in the process of peeling the chrome plating from the headlight bezels on my XJS. Most of it is pretty flaked and relatively easy to remove but I wonder, is there an easier way than peeling it off piece my piece? Can I mimick the process that flaked it in the first place? Maybe baking/heating it somehow?

Chrome Plating Removal
Posted: 2006-05-22 04:58:00.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
To remove chrome plating chemically you need to create a chrome plating solution (acid + salts) and reverse the electrical current to bring the solid plating back into solution. That's messy, expensive and a lot of trouble. You're better off continuing to peel the plating off. We find that a sharp razor blade does this very well, although you will go through several blades.

Converting mechanical tach to electronic
Posted: 2006-05-23 21:48:18.0
Posted by: willreed03
Hi everyone.

On to the problem. I have a 1971 Corvette Stingray, 350, TH400 auto and I am going to be putting in an HEI distributor this summer. The problem as you may have guessed is that my current tach is mechanical, cable driven off the points style distributor. I have an HEI distributor in my garage so no need to go spend money on a new HEI with cable drive and I would like the accuracy of electronic. Now how exactly do I go about converting my tach to electronic? Can I buy any old aftermarket, electronic tach, tear the workings out and stick it in my tach and it will work? Or do I have to get an electronic tach out of new Corvette and make the switch. The reason I ask is because the tach on the Corvettes is a lot bigger than those that are aftermarket, so would the aftermarket internals be able to swing that big needle all the way around accurately?

I read the article about the T-Bird but it just didn't provide enough information. Thanks for any and all help.

Converting mechanical tach to electronic
Posted: 2006-05-24 03:51:18.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Converting your tach to electronic should be fairly simple, but it's a learn-as-you-go sort of exercise similar to our T-Bird project. Aftermarket electric tachs use generic circuit boards that have several adjustment (range) switches to accomodate most engines. The workings are small, which means they will fit inside almost any old mechanical tach housing.
Converting usually consists of removing the housing and its innards, saving the face and needle. The new electric tach's needle can be pulled off and the workings fixed to the back of the old tach's face (this might involve using hot glue if a mechanical means of screwing it down to a bracket can't be worked out. The old Corvette's needle can be attached to the electric tach shaft either by an interference fit (if it's got the right inner diameter) or a drop of hot glue, as we did in the T-Bird.
RAC or SunPro tachs can be wired to HEI distributors and they are cheap. Don't forget to test everything thoroughly before installing the housing in the Vette's dash.

sticky old valves
Posted: 2006-05-24 18:53:13.0
Posted by: rwolf
The rapid flucuating (14-16") and the lack of power seem to indicate sticky valves, if I correctly understand your site. The car is a 1924 4 cyl Buick. Is there a way to free up these valves without taking the head off?

sticky old valves
Posted: 2006-06-04 03:59:29.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The only way to free up sticky valves is to fix them, as far as we are concerned. With an engine that old we'd be afraid to try chemicals or running it at high rev long enough to get them freed up, assuming it's just carbon on them that is the cause of the sticking. You should seriously consider taking the head off.

sticky old valves
Posted: 2006-06-11 18:13:23.0
Posted by: rwolf
Thanks for the advice. I've tried Marvel Mystery oil and it seems to smooth out a bit but I think the real solution is to take the heads off as you say, and do it right.

55 Tbird transmisson ADO
Posted: 2006-05-27 14:45:46.0
Posted by: fratchj
I just read the article on the 55 tbird and it seems they hooked up an ADO transmisson to the Y block. But they tell how to scrape grease off the rear end, but jump right over how they hooked the ado up. Anyone ever do such a thing? John

55 Tbird transmisson ADO
Posted: 2006-05-28 04:16:45.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We got an AOD to Y-Block adapter kit from Bendtsen's. Their website is www.transmissionadapters.com and all the engineering is done. The kit contains all the parts necessary, including a new starter motor, to mount an AOD to an old Y-Block engine. We've so far found the AOD to operate very well and the engine revs 1900 rpm at 65 mph in 4th (overdrive) gear.

47 DeSoto
Posted: 2006-05-27 19:00:21.0
Posted by: chace
I was given a 47 four door Desoto Deluxe with all of it's original parts by a customer of mine. I would like to completly rebuild the car with a new motor, transmission, and rear end. I have heard that all of these components have to tie in with each other and I have no idea where to start. I was told that a 350 small block would be good to use but what should I get to go with it? I have never done any kind of automotive work before and although I am very excited I am feeling a bit overwelmed. Thanks, Josh

47 DeSoto
Posted: 2006-05-28 04:22:46.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
There are generally two ways to go on a restoration. The first is to rebuild all the original stuff and reassemble the car. The chief advantage is that everything fits perfectly and as long as records were kept (photos, etc.) of all the parts the overall task isn't that challenging. The second option is to replace the old drivetrain with a newer one, such as you suggest. A smallblock 350/TH350 or TH400 automatic or T5 4-speed manual combination would be a common, easy to find drivetrain to install in most anything. However, doing this means fabricating engine/transmission mounts, modifying the frame, altering front suspension, changing the radiator/cooling system, installing a new rear end, and on and on...
If you've never done any serious rebuilding work you might start by restoring the original car. Otherwise, contact a hot rod shop for advice on modifying the Desoto. www.progressiveautomotive.com is a great shop to talk to.

Fuel tank restoration
Posted: 2006-06-02 19:39:47.0
Posted by: Cooper S
Hi all, I'm new to this website and I'm restoring a 1968 Mini Cooper S. My question is what is a good restoration method and what types of products do you use to restore a fuel tank. The tanks are becoming rare in Australia and they tend to rust from the inside out.What is a good rust prevention method or product to use that won't re act to fuels. I'm concerned about products pealing away and sending rubbish into the fuel lines. Great website. Thank you

Fuel tank restoration
Posted: 2007-01-08 22:39:56.0
Posted by: werace
Napa carries the Tank liner liquid. Good Stuff.
Good Luck, Steve

Fuel tank restoration
Posted: 2006-06-07 17:45:37.0
Posted by: Cooper S
I didn't know there was commercial tank lining liquids, I'll have to chase that up. The tanks do have some surface rust that varies to pitting.The tanks are 2 part construction with the seam down the middle. As the tanks are mounted vertically in the boot/luggage compartment the seams rust from the inside and fuel leaks out. The battery is also located between the 2 tanks. Can be a problem in regards to a fire hazzard. Thanks again for your help. Cheers

Fuel tank restoration
Posted: 2006-06-04 03:45:38.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
If your tank just has surface rust inside all you need to do is pour in a gallon of phosphoric acid (metal prep) and slosh it around or keep repositioning the tank to give it time to soak every square inch of surface long enough to dissolve the rust and etch the surface (an hour or so). Then you can empty it, dry it out and keep gas in it.
Other than that, the commercial tank lining liquids are the only way to go. We've used such preps before and didn't have any problems.

47 Desoto tear down
Posted: 2006-06-02 20:47:33.0
Posted by: chace
Hello again, thanks for the reply. I have started tearing down the Desoto and when I removed the interior I found that the floor of the car has multiple panels with large hex bolts holding them down. What are the panels for? Do I remove them and and refinish them seperately? Also I have found small areas (3/4"- 1 1/2") that are rusted out. What is the procedure to "patch" those areas. Once again, thanks alot. Josh

47 Desoto tear down
Posted: 2006-06-04 03:47:28.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We don't have any records of the Desoto floor panels, but the general rule is: any panel that can be removed should be. Restore each one, repaint it and reinstall it when ready. Small rust areas need to be cut out and little pieces of metal welded in.

47 Desoto tear down
Posted: 2006-07-17 05:06:15.0
Posted by: JustysGarage
Chrysler had panels in the floor for several reasons. My car has three. One in the drivers floor to get to the master cylinder, One in the hump just in front of the front seat to get to the wiring of the Prestomatic transmission, like DeSoto's TipToe shift. It is also easier to fill the transmission from here as well. There is also a panel on the upper right side of the hump for access to check and fill the fluid drive coupling. I just bought a '47 DeSoto, so you never know what else I'll discover. Justin

Body support frame
Posted: 2006-06-02 21:16:19.0
Posted by: Cooper S
Hi,is there any plans on how to build a body support frame that you used for the T Bird restoration ? The frame that you have used during the painting and sanding of the body. Fantastic website.
cheers

Body support frame
Posted: 2006-06-04 03:56:48.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Sorry, no plans were drawn up but it's just basic rough carpentry. The legs are double 2X6 with the outer piece cut 5 1/2 inches short and the longer one notched out 1.5 wide and 5 1/2 inches deep at the top to accomodate the square 2X6 frame on top. On that, running longitudinally, are two double 2x6's on which the floor pan of the car sits. The vertical pieces of 2x4 are there to add support to the front and rear fenders. The car's floor pan is bolted to the longitudinals with lag screws and there are 8-inch caster wheels (rubber tires) mounted on the bottom of the legs. Give your email and we'll send you three photos in full size that pretty well show the construction.

Door Removal
Posted: 2006-06-04 15:41:19.0
Posted by: Kidd
I have a Ford F-1 truck. I'm trying to take of the doors off, but I can't loosen the screws. If there are any suggestions on how to get them off, I would appreciate the help.

Door Removal
Posted: 2006-07-24 18:06:55.0
Posted by: red bird
There is a tool called an impact driver. It is hit with a hammer on the end and it twists to remove the screw. Any tool company would stock this tool.

1990 gmc vandura
Posted: 2006-06-05 19:58:07.0
Posted by: duane
my son has a 1990 gmc vandura with a v-6 and the drive shaft split in two. it's a short wheel base van and the drive shaft is roughly 44" from weld to weld. cannot find one anywhere and the parts stores are of no help. any help would be greatly appreciated. duane

1990 gmc vandura
Posted: 2006-06-06 05:05:47.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Drive shafts can be repaired (re-welded, lengthened, shortened, etc.) by most truck driveline and suspension specialty shops. Look in the yellow pages or online for such businesses. If the shop can't find a new drive shaft through the dealer network they can build one up or repair your son's broken shaft. The costs of repair will probably range from $200 to $400.

Rusted Fuel Filter Fitting
Posted: 2006-06-08 19:06:18.0
Posted by: greyghost
I've read a number of things on pulling rusted bolts/screws, but I'm still having some trouble with this fitting.

This particular fuel filter (which I'm replacing) sits in a brass housing that sticks out of the front end of the carburetor. The housing itself would be easy to remove thanks to the fact that brass doesn't exactly rust. unfortunately the iron/steel fitting that connects the metal fuel line to the housing won't budge, even after a liberal application of wd-40 and waiting overnight. since this is the fuel line, I'm not about to apply heat. Currently I think I've got 2 options: -Be patient, keep applying wd 40 or some better penetrating lube while gently torquing the fitting back and forth. -Since I'm only dealing with about 2 feet of this particular part of the fuel line, I'm tempted to clip the line (which looks like its been bent/abused a time or two before in this region) deal with the filter/fitting and replace the line and fitting I think I may have read something about light hammering as a method of loosening stuck threads? greyghost

Rusted Fuel Filter Fitting
Posted: 2006-06-09 04:01:25.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Heat is the best way to go, but your concerns about gasoline are quite correct. The next-best thing is to remove the carburetor and line together, empty them of fuel and take them inside to a vise where you can heat/twist, etc., to the best advantage. All things considered, clipping the line and replacing it seems the most reasonable way to go under the current circumstances.

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