SCG Classic Car Forum Archives - Page 4

1947 Buick Roadmaster 320 CU IN 8 Cylinder
Posted: 2006-03-01 19:38:14.0
Posted by: jmac48
Which Oil Filter Do You Use For This Engine? There is no number on the canister.

1947 Buick Roadmaster 320 CU IN 8 Cylinder
Posted: 2006-03-01 20:20:37.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Check out http://www.oldbuickparts.com... more specifically:
http://www.oldbuickparts.com/cat360/36001.pdf.

They list oil filter elements for 1939-1947 Buicks (All) with a catalog number of OF-397. I don't know if this is the original part number or just their catalog number. They might be able to tell you.

1947 Buick Roadmaster 320 CU IN 8 Cylinder
Posted: 2006-03-02 02:13:39.0
Posted by: jmac48
Thanks very much for the quick response. That is the correct filter as is the first filter in their listing, number 5572288, which is the GM factory number. One is twice as much money but that may be because it is factory. Again many thanks. John

1951 Chevy Truck - volt meter
Posted: 2006-03-04 10:42:03.0
Posted by: dsholar
I have done a 12 Volt Conversion on a 1951 Chevy Truck and I need to know where is the best place in vehicle wiring to install a 12 volt meter - this is an after market gauge. You can email me at sholarmom@aol.com.

Thanks for any help!

1951 Chevy Truck - volt meter
Posted: 2006-03-05 03:24:18.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Unlike an ammeter, you can install a voltmeter anywhere in the electrical system. The reason is that it reads system voltage at any given time and will reflect drain on the system from starting, lights, turn signals, horns, etc. Wire it to a point that is switched, however, since the meter will draw a very small amount of current if it is live all the time.

steel question
Posted: 2006-03-05 09:40:56.0
Posted by: Doug
what gage steel is usually used for auto bodies? I heard that steel used in new cars is different than old cars. What does cold rolled steel mean, or what does high carbon steel mean for car restorers? Thanks Doug

steel question
Posted: 2006-03-06 03:40:11.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Typical steel used in auto bodies from the 30s to the late 70s is 20 gage, which is .0375 inches thick. It is cold-rolled steel, meaning that it is malleable enough to be rolled and shaped with roll presses, as opposed to being heated red-hot. Such steels are generally medium carbon content. High strength carbon steel is used on today's cars because of its harder surface properties. It can be used in old cars but can be de-tempered pretty easily if not welded properly.

283 CHEVY TO 3 SPEED O D MERC TRANS ADAPTER
Posted: 2006-03-09 15:43:17.0
Posted by: Scotty
I am looking for an adapted to come off a 283 chevy to my 3 speed overdrive Merc trans. I neeed to use the current clutch linkage due to limited pedal travel. Anyone know where to locate one?

Scotty

283 CHEVY TO 3 SPEED O D MERC TRANS ADAPTER
Posted: 2006-03-10 04:59:39.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Try contacting Bendtsen's at www.transmissionadapters.com
They will either have such a thing or tell you how to get one made up. Expect to pay around $400 for an adapter plate, plus any applicable hardware.

1955 dodge heat riser
Posted: 2006-03-10 18:26:14.0
Posted by: jfoami
1955 dodge v8 270 engine heat riser was stuck so i took it off. butterfly is loose and is not attached to rod. spring is weak anyways. do i need to fix it or can i leave it the way it is. will it cause loss of power like this? any help would be appreciated. thanks mike

1955 dodge heat riser
Posted: 2006-03-11 03:34:54.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
You won't notice any difference in the way the engine runs without the heat riser. Its purpose is to direct hot exhaust gas into the intake manifold to heat the incoming air/fuel mixture for smoother and faster warmup. Once the engine reaches operating temperature the riser flapper stays open. As long as the flapper (butterfly) is moving you won't have any problems, but if it becomes jammed in the closed position you would lose power from that cylinder bank.

truck cab swap
Posted: 2006-03-15 14:33:41.0
Posted by: fredico
I have a 1955 Series 1 Chevy model 3600 (3/4 ton)(one piece windshield, round body) pickup truck and a tree fell across the cab roof. It flatted the roof. I have not found another model 3600 cab.I want to know if the model 3100 (1/2 ton) cab can be swapped with the model 3600 cab. Are they the same cab? Can I swap to a 5 window cab? Do they mount the same? Sure would be nice if this could happen.

truck cab swap
Posted: 2006-03-16 03:22:17.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We don't know for sure if the cabs are interchangeable, but they probably are. Your best bet is to go measure the 3100 cab in all directions and also all the mounting points. If the measurements are the same as(or very close to)the 3600 then it's safe to make the swap. You might have to reroute some wiring or brackets, but that's small stuff.

1948 Ford Truck
Posted: 2006-03-15 15:58:47.0
Posted by: firetruckbill
I have a 1948 Ford v8 flathead motor. I need to know the fireing order and does the distributor rotate clockwise or counter-clockwise? Looking at the motor from the front of the vehicle, what is the left bank numbers. I would appreciate any help I can get on this. Thanks
Bill

1948 Ford Truck
Posted: 2006-03-15 17:25:35.0
Posted by: Doug
If the truck engine is the same as the car, the firing order is 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2. Looking front to back the left bank is 1-2-3-4 and the right is 5-6-7-8 and the distributor rotates counterclockwise. This is for the 239 flathead car engine. I think there might be a larger flathead that was used in the larger trucks was a 337 cid version. The larger engine used the same firing order as the smaller one. You might see if anyone on http://www.bonusbuilt.com forums might know.

power
Posted: 2006-03-18 07:43:43.0
Posted by: prowler
i get power, but when i put the key in and turn it i lose all power. a few
minutes later power comes back and i try agian to turn the key the power
goes again. sometimes when i mess with the gear shifter on the steering
column the power comes back and then i lose it again. help me please

power
Posted: 2006-03-19 06:18:51.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Your description indicates several possible problems. One might be that the neutral safety switch is either badly adjusted or faulty, stuck in the normally open position. That should be easy to check out with a meter.
Another possibility is that the main power lead to the ignition switch is loose on its contact. This is particularly common in steering column-mounted switches on GM cars but happens on all other cars to a lesser extent.

68 Firebird, Converting Idiot Lites To Rally Gages
Posted: 2006-03-22 17:20:43.0
Posted by: 68FBIRD
I have new Rally Gages & PC Board for my 68 Firebird to replace original idiot lites. Cannot find an electrical diagram for Rally gage setup, but, after long study of new parts & idiot electrical diagram it appears, with respect to the original connector & new PC Board I need to re-arrange the contacts in the connector to match the copper trails & functions of the new Rally Gage PC Board. Also the GEN gage uses 2 copper runs, in & out, vs the idiot lite uses 1 in & common ground out. I have new Temp. & Oil PSI senders, Rally type. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

68 Firebird, Converting Idiot Lites To Rally Gages
Posted: 2006-03-23 04:14:19.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Without physically being there to troubleshoot the circuit, we can't offer much advice other than to go to an older dealership and ask to look at their shop manuals (on microfiche). You could also try the Samms electronics schematics company. They might have a complete circuit layout for sale

68 Firebird, Converting Idiot Lites To Rally Gages
Posted: 2006-03-23 17:58:28.0
Posted by: 68FBIRD
Thank you very much for your prompt, helpful replies. I enjoy your forum.

68 Firebird Convertible,Body Brace Behind Transmis
Posted: 2006-03-22 17:35:51.0
Posted by: 68FBIRD
68 Firebird Convertible, ref. the body brace just aft of the transmission. IS IT NECESSARY? I have an original rust free car with
a 350 stock engine, that I will drive. It won't be raced or dragged.

I will install a complete PYPES X system, with transverse muffler.
If I use the PYPES Adapter Braces, the body brace will be un-confortably LOW. Any suggestions?? Thanks

68 Firebird Convertible,Body Brace Behind Transmis
Posted: 2006-03-23 04:15:29.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The brace is there to limit cowl-shake and other body twists common to convertibles. You can probably get away without it, but don't throw it away until you've driven the finished car for a few hundred miles.

68 Firebird Drivetrain Roar
Posted: 2006-03-22 17:52:52.0
Posted by: 68FBIRD
With approx 85,000 miles on an original car, my 68Firebird has a constant low level noise, or roar, that is always present, if the car is moving. Does not make any difference if you are going straight or
turning corners, accelerating or de-celerating, or crusing. It has a manual 3-spd trans.
Any chance GM got a load of soft axles back in '68, and this roar is
from worn axle at the outer bearings?? I haven't got into it yet. I need some ideas before I go charging in like a drunken cowboy, 12
directions at once.

Appreciate any ideas. THANKS

68 Firebird Drivetrain Roar
Posted: 2006-03-23 04:16:58.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
You're describing axle bearing noise. You should jack up the rear end (both wheels off the ground) and put it in gear with the engine running and listen at each rear wheel to find the one making the noise.

Door alignment
Posted: 2006-03-25 09:54:37.0
Posted by: Eddie Paskey
Just had new hinge pins put in my hinges ( 1955 T-Bird). What is the best way to align the doors? Somewhere I read about putting small strips of wood around the door sash for equal distances. Need some help!!! Many Thanks Eddie

Door alignment
Posted: 2006-03-26 04:24:30.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Don't hold the door with your hands (or someone else's) use a floor jack with a piece of carpet or blanket under the bottom edge of the door.
Bolt the hinges onto the car's door opening and then loosely bolt them to the door. For a first-time fit, gently close the door and ease it onto its locking plate. Use wood shims under the bottom to get it aligned parallel and then do the same to get the front and back seams even. Reach in and tighten the bolts and then open the door and close it again. You'll be close enough to start tweaking the adjustments.

Doors alignment
Posted: 2006-03-26 05:32:23.0
Posted by: Eddie Paskey
Many thanks, Will try the wood shims, great Idea!! Eddie

New Engine Storage
Posted: 2006-03-31 10:34:14.0
Posted by: Bobert
I'm about to put the oil pan on my newly rebuilt short block and it will be a month before the heads are ready and then maybe a year before the eingine is installed. Yes, I know I'm out of sequence on the project. Before I put the pan on what can I do to help prevent rusting? I thought about a mist of Marvel Mystery oil and then after turning the engine right side up putting oil in the pan and turning the oil pump somehow to get oil in the passages. Thanks,

New Engine Storage
Posted: 2006-04-24 07:06:19.0
Posted by: archangel2003
I assume it's on an engine stand? Do you live where the moisture in the air is high? If so, spray the cylinders, cam, and whatever might rust with WD 40 (W= water D= displacement mixture test #40) use a heavy duty lawn trash bag, place some desiccate in there to absorb moisture, suck the extra air out with a vacuum (just so the bag is not hanging sloppy, but not tight enough to tear) and tie it up tight. When I lived in northern CA, I rarely had to worry about atmospheric moisture, but here in Chicago, all my tools showed signs of rust in a couple of months!

New Engine Storage
Posted: 2006-04-24 10:46:45.0
Posted by: Bobert
Yes, it's on a stand. I have pretty much done as suggested and sprayed some of it with Marvel Mystery Oil and the rest with WD 40. I have not put a desiccate in there yet but it is double bagged. Once I put the heads on I plan to re coat and bag. Yes, I am in the humid Chicago area too.

New Engine Storage
Posted: 2006-04-03 03:56:48.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Your approach is quite reasonable and worthwhile. You should be able to turn the oil pump by hand once the engine is put together. As long as the internal surfaces are coated with oil the engine shouldn't rust while it's sitting for a few months or a year.

Converting from Generator to Alternator
Posted: 2006-04-05 20:02:24.0
Posted by: jimmyd
I've searched the Forum for "How To" info. on making the conversion on a 55 Ford, V8, Automatic. I've purchased the Alternator and Voltage Regulator, but ofcourse there is no hook-up info. The Regulator connector's do not match the alternator connector's ?
Would anyone have info. on the correct way to do the conversion?? Thank's in advance, for any input's, jimmy

Converting from Generator to Alternator
Posted: 2006-04-06 03:59:57.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Do you have photos of the alternator and regulator? Are they matched to each other (both Delco, AC, etc?) If your alternator is a one-wire GM unit you don't need a regulator. If not, the regulator can be wired to the alternator in a number of ways, depending upon the manufacturer. Our T-Bird project (identical to your 55 Ford) uses a GM Delcotron alternator and a generic regulator.
On our regulator the #1 wire goes to the Field connection on the alternator (bottom one as mounted), the #2 goes to the top connector, #3 goes to any 12-volt source that's unswitched (horn relay connection, etc.) and the #4 goes to a switched (ignition switch controlled) wire either directly from the switch or tapped off the ignition wire. The big terminal on the alternator takes the heavy gauge wire to the starter motor, of course. You'll have to make connectors for this conversion and tape any unused wires from the old generator. You should read our theory article on alternators and regulators to familiarize yourself with how they work and what the wiring means.

Converting from Gererator to Alternator
Posted: 2006-04-07 13:36:12.0
Posted by: jimmyd
Thank's for your reply, Don't have photo but had hoped my post naming the Alt & V. reg. connector's would give the info. on hook-up. Thank's anyway. jimmy

Converting from Generator to Alternator
Posted: 2006-04-08 06:58:40.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The regulator S would be connected to the Stator on the alternator, the F goes to Field. We're not sure what the other connections mean, but a good guess is that the I goes to your indicator light on the dash and the A connects to the system voltage source (either the alternator's battery connection or something off the electrical system. Try searching on the regulator manufacturer's internet site for an explanation of the terminals or a schematic.

Converting from Gererator to Alternator
Posted: 2006-04-06 09:29:37.0
Posted by: jimmyd
The Alternator is built for "Early" mod. Ford, The connection's are, Stator---Battery----Field-----Ground. ( No number's) The Voltage Regulator is for Early mod. Ford, The connector's are, I----A-----S-----F. P.S I have copied and read the article you refered to.

Converting from Gererator to Alternator
Posted: 2006-04-08 08:05:55.0
Posted by: jimmyd
I thought the "I" , meant exciter voltage , and the "A" meant armentor?

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