SCG Classic Car Forum Archive - Page 3

Clearance issues
Posted: 2005-09-05 21:44:07.0
Posted by: bill votel
I have a '51 Ford F-1 which as I acquired it, has stock steering and suspension and an early '70's 302 mounted with what appear to be stock motor mounts. These are attached to triangulated steel brackets that are bolted to the frame. At first it appeared that the exaust coming off the stock head would hit the steering shaft. Block hugging drop down headers have been considered but the motor mounts are probably in the way. Another suggestion I've received is to go with a front type engine mount and dispense with the stock motor mounts. Has anyone encountered this problem before, and what is the easiest and safest solution? Does anyone know of an exaust head that will clear both the motor mounts and the steering shaft?

Clearance issues
Posted: 2005-09-11 04:18:41.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
If you can possibly fabricate a front mount onto the 302 you should do so, since the old flathead engines used them. The 302's stock mounts are attached to plates that have been welded to your frame, thus blocking the exhausts.
Another consideration would be to get "tuned" exhausts that wrap out around the frame and then back under once past the steering shaft. Racing shops have such things on hand or can make them.
We'd seriously recommend converting your stock steering to rack-and-pinion and leaving the 302 mounts as they are. It will cost you upwards of $2000 (including the necessary linkage to the steering wheel) but your truck will be much easier to drive. The costs are offset by those of the exhausts and mounts you are considering.

synthetic brake fluid
Posted: 2005-09-17 09:33:36.0
Posted by: JimmyG
In your TBird article you said that you're using synthetic brake fluid. What brand is it? What are the advanges over silicon and regular brake fluid?

Thanks

synthetic brake fluid
Posted: 2005-09-18 12:40:02.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The brand of synthetic fluid is Royal Purple, but there is very little difference between brands. To be honest, I use Royal Purple because they sponsor my radio show, Cruise Control.
I favor "normal" brake fluid (which included synthetic) over silicon, since in 30-or so projects that I've done brake systems, fully half have failed with silicon fluids. Typical problems include spongy pedal, foaming due to high heat on disc brakes, leaks. These seem predominate on British cars but I've also seen it in a Corvette. All cases involved all-new parts and lines. Silicon fluid either works or doesn't - it's a tossup.
Synthetic brake fluid has incredibly stable viscosity and is very anti-corrosive, so the hygroscopic nature of mineral-based fluids is mitigated to a large degree. I've left the stuff in an open can for over a year in a non-heated garage and there's no evidence of contamination. It also can take heat up to 500 degrees before boiling away. Its only downside is that, like traditional brake fluid, it can eat the paint if it spills. Synthetic fluid is a little cheaper than silicon too.

gear oil
Posted: 2005-09-17 09:39:36.0
Posted by: Doug
Rather than using 90W gear oil, I've been thinking about using synthetic gear oil. Is the same oil used on the transmission and the rear end? What brands would you recommend?

gear oil
Posted: 2005-09-18 12:45:10.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We absolutely recommend using synthetic gear oil for manual transmissions and rear axles. Most older cars used the same 90-weight gear oil in both, but check your shop manual. The reason we think so highly of synthetic oil is that the stuff has the advantages of maintaining viscosity over a wide heat range; no separation of components (conventional gear oils precipitate out over time; higher lubricity factor and extremely long lifetime. We use Royal Purple synthetic oils because, frankly, we get them free (they sponsor Les' radio show). Any SAE/API certified brand is fine, however.

AOD transmission
Posted: 2005-09-21 11:29:02.0
Posted by: lz25
Like the current project, I have installed an AOD transmission in a 1956 thunderbird. Using the same adaptor kit, I attached it to a 312 Y-block V8. I concure that the adaptor kit is outstanding. My problem however it the throttle cable. I used a Lokar kit and timed it to the AOD specs (10mm at 30psi etc) and it is not shifting right. A local shop said to adjust it until it shifted. Knowing that this transmission can easily be distroyed if the TV cable is not operating, I added some travel and now it shifts. However, I run out of cable before I run out of throttle and I don't seem to shift into 2nd grear. Yes second gear. I sart off in first ok, and shift to high, at about 55 it shifts a second time and is in Overdrive. I need help. Can someone point me in the right direction. Or is it too late and I've damaged my tranny?

AOD transmission
Posted: 2005-09-21 11:46:25.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We used a Lokar cable as well, and there's plenty of cable when used with the Edelbrock carburetor. Rather than any measurements we followed Phoenix Transmissions' adjustment procedure, which is to keep pulling the cable (while running at idle stop) until the pressure gauge attached to the transmission's output reads 24 psi. We've kept the gauge attached and mounted in the engine bay to make further adjustments if required. The car shifts fine on the lift, but because it isn't road-worthy yet we haven't tested in the real world.

6-Volt Tube Radio
Posted: 2005-09-22 13:51:52.0
Posted by: donada
I am looking for a source for tubes and related radio parts for the old 6-volt tube radio. The radio in question is in a 1953 Lincoln Capri. Any help on this matter will be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Donald.

6-Volt Tube Radio
Posted: 2005-09-22 14:24:13.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
You might try http://www.turnswitch.com/radio1.htm. They say that they have over 6,000 tubes in stock...

Plasma Cutters
Posted: 2005-09-30 20:38:27.0
Posted by: John Guess
I,ve been considering adding a plasma cutter for removing rusted body panels and have heard alot of mixed information on them. I've been checking into the newer models that have on board air compressors and run off regular house current. I was ready to purchase the hobart 250A until I heard that it probably would not handle what I want to do. Have you rated any of the plasma cutters?

Plasma Cutters
Posted: 2005-10-01 03:40:02.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We've not done any tests with plasma cutters to date and, frankly, there are no plans to do so. We know some folks who use them and love them but it's hard for the hobbyist to justify the costs of such relatively seldom-used equipment. We've done very well with air tools, grinders and metal saws and all of these have multiple uses. If you purchase a plasma cutter we'd be interested in your writing up your experiences for the site.

Brake Fluid
Posted: 2005-10-01 09:12:36.0
Posted by: donada
I will be redoing the brakes on a 1953 Lincoln two-door Cosmopolitan. I don't have the owner's manual and am not sure on the type of brake fluid that should be used in these old cars. I am wondering of someone might have some information on this. Thank you, Donald

Brake Fluid
Posted: 2005-10-02 04:04:27.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Your Lincoln most certainly would have used conventional brake fluid, as we know of no cars (other than military and special purpose vehicles) that used anything else. You could also use silicone or synthetic brake fluids, but shouldn't have any problem with "good old" Dot 3 fluid.

leaky brake master cylinder line
Posted: 2005-10-13 04:59:51.0
Posted by: griffedi
I followed up on your suggestions and plan to go back to the problem later today. Upon shining light in Master Cylinder, threads are good but I actually do not see a seat for the brake line (When I go back over today I will compare to old Master from the junk pile) Is there a specific measurement for depth of seat? The brake line has the same size(length) fitting on both ends and was part of a pre-bent package. Purchased the Master and brake lines from Dearborn. Is it possible one or the other is defective?

leaky brake master cylinder line
Posted: 2005-10-13 06:12:42.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
It's always possible for a part to be defective. We recently installed disc brake conversion equipment and found the holes for attaching one caliper to the spindle assy weren't threaded on the right side wheel! Your leaking has to be due to the line not seating tightly, whether it's threads or seat or, possibly, a split in the line at the flare. Look at it with a magnifying glass.

leaky brake master cylinder line
Posted: 2005-10-09 09:40:25.0
Posted by: griffedi
What are we doing wrong? We are trying to install a new master cylinder on a 64 Fairlaine (with new brake line) and after bench bleeding the master cylinder and installing on car, it seems the brake line leaks excessively.(Once tightened the line still can be pushed in a bit further)

SUpplier suggested that we were tightening too much or too little so we have tried a number of "tightness levels" to no avail

Any suggestions?

leaky brake master cylinder line
Posted: 2005-10-10 04:36:53.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
If you can still push the line in after tightening the collar nut it means that the flare isn't being pushed down against its seat in the master cylinder. There are a few possible reasons for this. First, the wrong flare is being used on the brake line end; and second, the collar nut can't bottom out on the threads in the master cylinder. Assuming the lines are correct, shine a bright light into the master's threaded holes and make sure the threads are cut all the way to the seat. If you find that the inside threads are stripped, use a flat-tipped tap (if you have one) to clean them up. If you don't have a tap use an old bolt with the same threads to force (gently) its way into the stripped area.
A third possibility is that if you're using generic brake lines you're using the short collar nut end of the brake line when the master's connection requires the long collar nut. Generic lines use one of each on the ends.

Temperature light
Posted: 2005-10-22 05:28:48.0
Posted by: msco123
I have a 69 firebird and the temperature light comes on when car is first started(cold start) then goes out after about 30 seconds. Is this normal?

Temperature light
Posted: 2005-10-22 06:59:49.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
This probably is normal, since the lights back then typically indicated that the electric element in the automatic choke was working.

55 t bird project... spain
Posted: 2005-10-23 10:23:42.0
Posted by: anthony
Thanks for your help and I will send photos of what it looks like.
Is it posible via clubs or government agencies in the USA to find out a vehicles history.-I have its vi number and the original purchasers details but there are no facilities here to chase this cars history and its got to be interesting, how many 55´s ended up this side of the atlantic anyway!?. i have been told that it would have been a show car and sold "internaly". Spain was closed to import and it was aparently the only way to get a car like this.
anthony.

55 t bird project... spain
Posted: 2005-10-23 08:50:44.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We have loads of experience with 55 TBirds and can assure you that American cars are easier to restore overall than European cars of the same vintage. Parts are quite available but shipping them to Europe could be pretty expensive. The good news is that you should be able to get the car stripped and painted inexpensively in Spain, assuming you do some asking around. Send us some photos of the project and we'll assess the level of effort its going to take.

id numbers
Posted: 2005-10-23 08:23:18.0
Posted by: oink jackson
I have a 1978 chevy caprice classic that i believe may be all original. How do i find and verify that the numbers match the original components installed in the car

id numbers
Posted: 2005-11-01 03:23:31.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Dealers, car clubs and online forums have VIN decoder information that will tell you how the car was equipped when built. As far as checking out the engine/trans, etc., you'll have to get the casting numbers off the block and heads and check with an engine rebuilding shop (it's possible to get online information too) to get the dates of manufacture. If the dates fall within a couple months of the build date of the car the components are original.

carb adjustments
Posted: 2005-10-31 17:02:25.0
Posted by: ram
what is the best way to set the air fuel mixture on a holley 2bl carb it is on a 87 dodge truck.

carb adjustments
Posted: 2005-11-01 03:20:23.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Setting the idle mixture is done with the two external screws in the front at the bottom plate. You will probably have to remove the plastic caps that limit the screw movements. Get the engine warmed up and then turn each screw (one at a time) clockwise until the engine stumbles or runs very slowly, then back it off until the engine smooths out. Do the other one the same way. Set the idle speed with the throttle linkage adjustments.

Sky Roof
Posted: 2005-11-08 07:45:42.0
Posted by: harryk
I need info on parts to restore the skyroof in a '72 Pontiac Ventura. Also,will Chevy Nova parts interchange with parts on this vehicle?

Sky Roof
Posted: 2005-11-10 04:33:01.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We can't offer too much assistance in this case, chiefly because we don't have any shop or assembly manuals for your car. You can buy one through Amazon or Ebay, no doubt, and you'll probably have to search a dealer's parts network to get the replacement pieces since few people are restoring the old Ventura cars at the moment. There is no reason why Nova parts shouldn't interchange, since both cars were built on the same assembly lines and GM used as many duplicate parts as possible.

T-Bird Wiring
Posted: 2005-11-22 14:15:00.0
Posted by: Eddie Paskey
Sure been watching your T-Bird project with great interest. Thanks for the manny tips and mostly for the encourgment. I have a 55 myself and like you am wanting to improve instead of making it original. Just want it to look original with upgrades. Have installed power discs, 57 Dist. and in future will put on Blue thunder. Right now will be starting on a new wire loom with fuse block. Ron Francis. Not to rush you, but do you have any idea when you will start the electrical work on the project bird, because I know that I'm going to need alot of you guy's knowledge. Many thanks Eddie Paskey
1955 T-Bird P5FH253783---Red-- White 57 porthole Top.

Quarter Panel Replacement
Posted: 2005-12-03 08:48:17.0
Posted by: Joda
Hi everyone I'm a newbie and this is my first post. I'm presently restoring my 1970 Dodge Challenger RT and will have to replace the complete passenger side quarter panel. My question is, do I drill out all the factory welds on the existing quarter and weld in the new complete quarter panel or do I cut the existing quarter panel and weld in the replacement.

Your advise and comments will be very much appriciated.

Quarter Panel Replacement
Posted: 2005-12-03 11:00:08.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
This depends upon the extent of the rust/damage to the original. If you can describe what it looks like in more detail we can offer better advice. However, it's usually preferable to cut the existing panel and weld in new metal, although lots of patience and attention to detail is required.

51 Ford F1 Igintion
Posted: 2005-12-05 16:27:00.0
Posted by: SteveLewis
I recently purchased a '51 Ford F1. The previous owner had installed a Chevy ignition switch. I have purchased a cylinder and key set for the truck but am wondering if there should also be a starter button. I believe that the starter button to be correct but was a key also in the circuit? I would like to have the truck be as original as possible. It came with a NOS flat head V8 that was stored at a local Ford dealer for 50 years. I have the Shop Manual for the truck but it isn't clear if the key and starter button are in series or not.

51 Ford F1 Igintion
Posted: 2005-12-08 10:10:16.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Your starter button is correct and operates from voltage supplied by the ignition key. That way the starter wouldn't operate without the ignition turned on.

Electric Tach
Posted: 2005-12-08 07:02:15.0
Posted by: Eddie Paskey
Wow, so glad to see the stuff on the wiring for the T-Bird project. Have I missed an article on the electric tach? What did you use? I'm starting my rewire next week, using Ron Francis, hoping to mount fuse panal in trunk,(really bad back). 55 bird- 12v alt.- Vintage Air-AM/FM with CD changer-57 non tach drive dist.-A/C condensor under right fender with electric condensor fan.-elect wipers. I noticed in your car that you used a falcon light switch, what year? Thank you for all the info. Eddie Paskey

Electric Tach
Posted: 2005-12-08 10:08:52.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The electric tach is a J.C.Whitney piece called Innova 2000. Its mechanism was an easy remount into the original tach and would accomodate the original needle. It isn't working as yet and I never tested it before doing the modification, but I'm sure the problem is an incorrect electrical contact. I'm not sure there are any photos of the conversion, but if so we'll do an article. The Falcon switch is a '63, and it doesn't have the identical wiring mounts as the TBird, but I couldn't resist using a new switch. I simply traced the internals with an ohmeter and made the correct connections. Your idea to mount a fuse panel in the trunk is a good one, but bear in mind you'll have to run extra wires to reach it.

Electric Tach
Posted: 2005-12-08 21:55:03.0
Posted by: Eddie Paskey
Thanks for getting back to me so soon. Does the falcon switch have the fuses on it? Thanks for the caution on the wire length, think the wires from the alternator will need to be stretched a little. Many Thanks Eddie

Electric Tach
Posted: 2005-12-09 02:56:57.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The Falcon switch was designed to accommodate a fuse panel but I didn't use one. Instead, I've installed inline fuse holders in all the circuits for ease of access because once the seat is installed there's little wiggling room to get under the dash looking for fuses.

55 Dash unit
Posted: 2005-12-11 10:40:24.0
Posted by: eufaula
Love the site. I'm still trying to carefully remove my 55 dash as an assembly. Where were the magic 8 or so bolts to pop that baby off?

55 Dash unit
Posted: 2005-12-12 03:40:17.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
There are two bolts/nuts holding the dash to side brackets at the front, one on each end. The top edge of the dash is held along the inside of the windshield by about 6 screws. The dash is also held by the bolts holding the steering column and it must be dropped or removed before you slide the dash out.

55 T Bird Worm steering
Posted: 2005-12-14 18:00:32.0
Posted by: eufaula
I was trying to remove the steering wheel when I hit this snag. The manual says "Remove as assembly" but this cable is connected somewhere in the middle of the steering shaft. Is there a better way? I want to stay as original as possible since this car is in great condition and very complete. Sending pix.

55 T Bird Worm steering
Posted: 2005-12-15 03:20:01.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
That's the horn ground wire. It terminates in the hub under the turn signal assy and you should be able to remove the connection there. Once disconnected, you can pull the column out and the wire will stay in the steering box end.

Dash Removal
Posted: 2005-12-24 22:47:53.0
Posted by: Eddie Paskey
Have started on replacing my wire loom in my 55 T-Bird. Using a Ron Francis Kit. Really looks like a nice kit. Some of the installation will be modified as I go. Fuse panel is mounted in Trunk (very bad Back). You guys will probably laugh, but I have been trying to connect the 2 E clips that hold the Linkasge arms to thr motor. Have been working on it for 3 days, what horrilbe placeto get to. I believe that I will pull the dash. Do I have to pull the colunum or can I just lay it down without any damadge? Think it would be a lot easier to wire on the work bench. Any words of wisdom on this project would be appreciated.. Thanks and May everyone have a Very Merry Christmas and A Happy New Year. Best To All Eddie Paskey

Dash Removal
Posted: 2005-12-26 03:39:33.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
You should slide the dash out to do the rewiring, since the overall time will be less than twisting around on your back and ending up with a muscle tension headache. Also, it will help immensely to get to the wiper motor. It can be reached from underneath but it's difficult to work upside down. You should be able to drop the column a few inches without doing any disassembly. Have a great holiday.

Seat Belt Indicator light 1969 Corvette
Posted: 2005-12-28 13:59:49.0
Posted by: pault
SCG Staff, thanks for the speedy reply. Will look for a wire going to the relay instead of a bulb and socket. Is this relay part of the switch with the push-button and is the bulb and socket all part of the same unit....will also contact a parts supplier. Do you have any one you might recommend? Thanx again, PaulT.

Seat Belt Indicator light 1969 Corvette
Posted: 2005-12-27 03:46:00.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
That's an interesting problem, and we wonder why on earth anyone would have removed the socket and bulb in the first place. We don't have a circuit diagram handy, but do recall that the light came on when the engine was started and stayed on until the button was pushed. That almost certainly required a relay energized by the start switch. The wire leading from the relay is probably still in the harness, buried somewhere. Look for a cut-off end. We also recall that the socket and bulb were the same as the dash indicators. You might contact one of the Corvette resto catalog companies to get replacement parts and a schematic.

Seat Belt Indicator light 1969 Corvette
Posted: 2005-12-26 12:59:20.0
Posted by: pault
socket and bulb missing, can't find circuit in wiring diagram. Shut-off switch seems operable, need info on how ckt works, type of socket and bulb, color of wiring in harness, etc. Any info will be greatly appreciated. Thanx, PaulT.

Seat Belt Indicator light 1969 Corvette
Posted: 2005-12-29 05:41:55.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
You're getting this a bit confused. We didn't say there was a relay INSTEAD of a bulb and socket, only that a relay is engaged for the operation of the light and switch. We don't recall the actual layout of components, hence the need for a shop manual and electrical schematic. Contact www.wernersparts.com for very reliable Corvette info and replacement parts.

Seat Belt Indicator light 1969 Corvette
Posted: 2005-12-29 09:45:52.0
Posted by: pault
SCG Staff,Thanx again for speedy reply. Did find relay, some type thermal switch with a push reset. Switch is powered from the fuel gauge, looks as if replaced as a unit. Will contact wernersparts now that you guys provided me with enough info so I can know what to look for. Thanx again for your help, will let you know how I make out PaulT....

55 T Bird body removal
Posted: 2005-12-29 00:16:50.0
Posted by: eufaula
I noticed you use wood for your cart. Are there special stands or universal carts for purchase that do the task without fabrication?

55 T Bird body removal
Posted: 2005-12-29 03:59:03.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
A number of companies sell metal stands that rotate car bodies, and there are a couple that are made specifically for TBirds that are sold by the parts suppliers. Casco, for instance, sells a set of plans to build your own. Hemmings has lots of ads for stands each month.
Wood was chosen for ease of construction, cost, re-use after disassembly and because the cart had to perform the specific duty of holding the body and allowing it to roll over the chassis for storage when work wasn't being done. The total cost was about $50 plus the caster wheels.

Guage restoring company
Posted: 2005-12-29 12:13:12.0
Posted by: dhuber
I have a 52 Ford F1 that I am restoring and am having trouble finding someone who will re-callibrate, clean up, rechrome the bezel, generally make look new. Suggestions?

Guage restoring company
Posted: 2006-01-01 17:38:09.0
Posted by: jungleg49
Found this link. Perhaps what you are looking for http://www.gaugeguys.com/resto.htm

Schematics on vacuum line of 1955 T-Bird
Posted: 2005-12-30 11:34:44.0
Posted by: SCFisher
I purchased a 1955 T-Bird with NO vacuum on the fuel pump. I purchased a new fuel pump that HAS vacuum. I am looking for information or schematics on the vacuum. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Schematics on vacuum line of 1955 T-Bird
Posted: 2005-12-31 06:52:48.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Your T-Bird's fuel pump provided secondary vacuum for the windshield wipers in conditions where there was low engine vacuum, such as under load going uphill. Two vacuum lines connect to the fittings on the top of the pump. The innermost (closest to the water pump) fitting goes to the vacuum hose leading through the firewall and inside to the wiper motor. The outermost fitting connects to a line leading to the vacuum port on the intake just in front of the carburetor. The two lines were originally steel tubing, but rubber vacuum hose works just as well.

1955 dodge serra (coronet) station wagon
Posted: 2006-01-15 18:45:10.0
Posted by: jfoami
thank you was much help. also looked up 57 rambler wagon i use to have. oh kicking myself in pants for that one. when they stop making them they go up fast.

1955 dodge serra (coronet) station wagon
Posted: 2006-01-15 18:55:12.0
Posted by: bigfur
www.forwardlook.net
They can probibly help you as well

1955 dodge serra (coronet) station wagon
Posted: 2005-12-30 17:56:33.0
Posted by: jfoami
does anyone have knowledge of this car or information on how i can
find it thanks

1955 dodge serra (coronet) station wagon
Posted: 2005-12-31 06:56:04.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We did a quick search on the internet and found this site: http://www.allpar.com/history/chrysler-years/1955.html
It gives quite a bit of information on the Dodges of this year and mentions that a great source of information is the Walter P. Chrysler Club. Good hunting.

64 Fairlane knocking noises and oil light
Posted: 2006-01-06 05:44:57.0
Posted by: griffedi
I have a 64 Ford Fairlane 500. Started it up recently and the engine started making a knocking sound (seems to be coming from the top part of the engine). It also seems to be coming from both sides (but I could be wrong). In addition, the oil light came on at the same time. I checked the oil level and it is right at "full" on the dipstick. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.

64 Fairlane knocking noises and oil light
Posted: 2006-01-17 05:03:23.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
You didn't mention whether the sound went away or not. If it went away it is almost certainly due to the lifters pumping up. The hydraulic lifters tended to leak down over time and you'd get clatter when starting cold.
If the sound is still there and the oil light is still on you could have some serious problems. That would indicate a failure of the oil pump, which means oil starvation all over the inside of the engine. That, of course, will mean a complete engine rebuild, in the course of which you will find the original fault.

1949 Mercury 2 door coupe side glass installation
Posted: 2006-01-07 18:18:15.0
Posted by: garyaherns
Does anyone have a schematic for installing wing windows, door window and rear side windows for a 1949 Mercury Coupe? Thanks!

1949 Mercury 2 door coupe side glass installation
Posted: 2006-01-08 05:58:14.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
You'll have to get a shop manual or body manual for the specific instructions, but these are relative easy to come by. Generally, the wing windows go in by inserting the bottom post first and then screwing the top hinge to the door frame. Side window installation procedures typically call for installing the window into the front and rear track first, then mounting the regulator hardware. Adjustments can be very tricky and frustrating, but once you've done one door you'll be able to do the others very quickly.

1949 Mercury 2 door coupe side glass installation
Posted: 2006-01-08 13:44:17.0
Posted by: garyaherns
My problem is that I couldn't find a shop or body manual in a hurry (my merc is at the glass shop now!) Thanks for your response.

'57 Ford Fairlane 500 & '57 Ford Ranchero.
Posted: 2006-01-18 04:20:28.0
Posted by: AmericanPackMule
SCG Staff:

Thank You. I wish i could find a steel wool pad, for my power sander

'57 Ford Fairlane 500 & '57 Ford Ranchero.
Posted: 2006-01-09 18:32:20.0
Posted by: AmericanPackMule
Big Problem: RUST!
I'm scared to use a power sander on them.

'57 Ford Fairlane 500 & '57 Ford Ranchero.
Posted: 2006-01-11 04:50:24.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We assume you are worried about deep scratches in the visible areas of the bodies, right? Underneath, inside fenders, etc., aren't that big a concern.
Sanding is an efficient rust-removal technique, however, and if you start with something like 80-100 grit you shouldn't run into trouble. The primer, surfacer and following coats should hide minute scratches. You could also wire brush the rust off, followed by chemical treatment (phosphoric acid) in all cases.There are chemical rust dissolvers, but these tend to be expensive gels made with phosphoric acid and you still end up with a surface that needs to be smoothed out. The best method is to sand the metal until the rust is gone, then sand with 220 grit to minimize the scratches, then get on with preparing the metal for primer.

Installing vent window in vette coupe
Posted: 2006-01-14 17:38:19.0
Posted by: Larsonfamily
It has been quite some time since I took the vent windows out of my '63 vette coupe. Now it's time to return them to their place in the coupe's door. My first attemps have proved unsuccessful - any good directions on how to do this without fainting from the fear of scratching paint or braking glass? I've done extensive research and have yet to find anything. thanks for your help

Installing vent window in vette coupe
Posted: 2006-01-17 04:58:57.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We have a very nice writeup called "vent window regulator rebuild" (http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/327.cfm) in our How-To section. The writer shows the step-by-step removal of the window and replacement, of course, is the reverse of those steps. Your car should be identical. Let us know if you run into trouble.

broken bolt
Posted: 2006-01-20 16:45:08.0
Posted by: firemedic
i am working on a 1958 ford custom 300 and i broke to head of a bolt that i was trying to unscrew. what is the best way to take the bolt off when the head is broken?

broken bolt
Posted: 2006-01-24 10:23:16.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Our archives have a short piece on techniques of removing broken bolts. When possible, heat it with a torch to red hot.

55 t-bird brakes
Posted: 2006-01-24 07:56:21.0
Posted by: tbirdman
does anyone know of a changeover for 55 tbird rear brakes. i have discs for front but need something a bit more substantial than the original for the rear and i cant find anything out there. e-mail eadgpdhome@msn.com thanks

55 t-bird brakes
Posted: 2006-01-24 10:22:11.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The original drums should be quite sufficient for general driving, considering the fact that you have front discs and a proportioning valve. To go to bigger drums you'd have to convert to full-sized Ford drums of the late 50s. The original rear drums came from full-sized Ford station wagons, which were designed to handle much greater weight.
Switching to discs would require converting the rear end to a 9-inch Ford unit from the 60s to early 70s. Lincoln Versailles rear ends had all the necessary parts and fit without too much welding and re-sizing.

1937 Chevrolet Master Sedan
Posted: 2006-01-24 08:16:24.0
Posted by: djashburnmn
Well, im not much of a chevy fan, i prefer fords or dodges but there is one gm that i actually wanna get running again. i got my grandpas first car in my shop at home, a 1937 Chevrolet Master sedan, it hasnt run in around 30-40 years but still is in good condition. its rusty but its mainly just surface rust (only place it goes all the way through is the bottom side of the head lights). all the windows are busted out and the interior is ruined. i want to get this thing running by prom of this year, not totally restored but running with a couple decent seats for me and my date. then by next year i want her to look something like this below. i'll probably be coming on here every now and then when i start getting somewhere on her. so far the interior is stripped and the body is partially sandblasted, it'd be all the way finished but i had to stop for winter.

what i need to know is what kind of more modernized car frame would fit under that car. my moms boyfriend is talking about taking an older half ton pickup frame that he has, cutting it to length and using a technique where you weld the frame back together and fasten two steel plates on either side with several bolts holding them together, theres a techical name for it but i dont know. im not 100% sure about that, on one hand it'd make the restoration easier, its got a heavy duty rearend right there. i can get the engine, tranny, and such put in and running before i even drop the body on, get a new gas tank installed. on the other it wouldnt be original anymore and i havent heard of that technique before.

and finally if someone has restored a 37 chevy or similar car, whats the maximum size of engine you can put in it. right now i got a 305 small block out of a camaro that i can put in it but i eventually want a big block. i know i wont be able to get a 454 but what about a 350 or 390?

if you want to see what the car would look like restored copy and paste the link http://georgemcdowell.net/cgi-bin/04/image.pl?/show/04/lou/nat266.jpg

1937 Chevrolet Master Sedan
Posted: 2006-01-24 08:36:52.0
Posted by: Doug
This sounds a bit ambitious to me. If your car hasn't run for 30-40 years, it's a pretty sure bet that things like brake lines, cylinders, etc would need attention. You cannot just fix up the cosmetic parts of an almost 70 year old car and expect it to be safe on the streets. You should forget about taking it to the prom and give yourself a couple of years to do it right. You mentioned that you had to stop working on it because of the weather... I don't know where you are, but if you had to stop because of the cold, it'll probably not get warm again for at least 4 to 6 weeks. If you prom's in June, that'd give you two or three months to at least a year's worth of work.

The idea of "customizing" a pickup truck frame is loaded with many traps and pitfalls. There's a lot of engineering that goes into building a car frame, and it'd real easy to get things mis-aligned. From your posting it sounds like you don't have much experience with this sort of thing, and this kind of project would make even the most experienced person out there nervous.

From a practical standpoint, it doesn't make much sense to put a big block into this car. It'll look pretty and impress the girls, but it'll suck more gasoline than anyone can afford. Unless you plan on racing it, leave the big blocks to the racers.

I would focus on the restoration aspects of the project first. Bring the body back to "as new" condition. Keep the original frame, maybe upgrade the brakes to discs, etc. Make it a nice, comfortable driver. If you want, put your small block in it, but you may have to do some re-engineering of the suspension to handle any additional weight.

You might want to search out some hot-rodding websites to see what they might offer in terms of these kinds of modifications.

Good Luck

Doug

repainting aftermarket steeringwheel
Posted: 2006-01-29 09:20:30.0
Posted by: scottnomad
I puchased one of the reduced size steeringwheel for my Nomad. However in repainting it something in the wheel bleeds over into the paint giving a yellowish brown layer. I've tried Eastwood's Pre and then 3 layers of color with alternation coats of polyurathane. Looked good for a month the the brown color seep back in. What can I put on the wheel so seal it? Thanks. Scottnomad

repainting aftermarket steeringwheel
Posted: 2006-01-29 10:29:59.0
Posted by: scottnomad
The wheel is a type of plastic (made in China?) The orginal color was black which was completely sanded down to the flat colored wheel. The eastwoods PRE was applied followed with eastwood's etching primer, which they said would do the trick. But several months later, trouble. I have it sanded down again and was just waiting for a good way to proceed.

repainting aftermarket steeringwheel
Posted: 2006-01-29 10:23:18.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Is the new wheel wood, and therefore finished in a stain? In that case you need to strip the finish to the bare wood and seal it with a spit-coat of shellac (1 part shellac to 6 parts alcohol). Then you can prime and paint it.
If the new wheel is plastic it is probably finished in an acrylic of some kind, colored with analine dyes. These dyes can penetrate almost any material, but good primers should prevent color-bleeding. In the worst case you can sand the wheel to the base material and bring it back up with primer, filler and paint.

headers for yblock
Posted: 2006-01-31 11:58:18.0
Posted by: tbirdman
looking for headers for 55 tbird 292. i am told only reds has them . truck headers wont fit they say. dont understand why, other than they have market cornered for them . sanderson sells for trucks as well but not for bird. need some real bad. anybody have a set or contact.

headers for yblock
Posted: 2006-02-01 03:18:16.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We assume you are looking for stock exhaust manifolds for your 292, in which case you can find them on ebay and at www.ford-y-block.com and all sorts of other Ford parts sites (Hemmings, etc.) If you are looking for performance headers, then you are limited to the supplier. Frankly, in the case of headers you won't see any performance gains but will get more heat in the cabin.
Truck manifolds don't work in T-Birds.

55 Mercury
Posted: 2006-01-31 19:16:54.0
Posted by: fiat 500
Just bought a 55 Mercury... ran when parked.. It has a 2bbl carb and manifold. ( unmarked 2100), and the dist cap and points for a 1955 Mercury do not fit. It is a Y block.. any suggestions for different dist caps ?

55 Mercury
Posted: 2006-02-01 16:26:43.0
Posted by: fiat 500
No. it's not a Mallory, it's single point, and actually has a echlin cap on it now, but contacts corroded. Like the carb, there are no tags or tabs or markings. The listings I have in MOTOR and Hollander only show a 4bbl in 55 Mercs and this is a 2bbl. Was the 54 different? On the two sets of points, one has the locating pin and the 2 mounting holes in a straight line and the other has an angle. between the three points. I cannot remeber now which was which and I am out of town now. NMight it vbe a Ford distributor then ? ( or even a Ford block with Merc valve covers)

55 Mercury
Posted: 2006-02-01 03:22:20.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Are you saying that the stock cap and points for '55 Mercs and Fords don't fit the distributor in the car? If so, it's an aftermarket replacement (probably Mallory)and you'll have to get its markings to research the manufacturer/application.
If it's the correct distributor and you can't use your Mercury cap and points, go with Ford parts. They were the same, and many years of parts will fit well into the 60s. We see Y-block distributors on Ebay all the time.

Tack Strip
Posted: 2006-02-02 21:15:25.0
Posted by: Eddie Paskey
What are you using for tack strips for the windlace? can't seem to find. Doing kick panels and back 1/4's. I'm working on a 55 T-Bird. Sure appreciate all of you info. Eddie Paskey

Tack Strip
Posted: 2006-02-03 03:18:04.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We got tack strip material from the local auto upholstery shop, a chain called "Sure Fit." Any similar shop will have rolls of different sized tack strip and they'll sell it to you for about 50-cents a foot. We used 1/2 x 1/2 inch and glued it in with Liquid Nails along with using the metal tabs in the body.

Tack Strip
Posted: 2006-02-03 05:45:32.0
Posted by: Eddie Paskey
Thanks, I Tried a Uph. guess I will have to try another shop!! Just letting you know that my wire loom change out is coming along good. Will use the 2X4 support that you suggested. Have enjoyed working with Ron Francis, they have been able to answer my questions so far. Again Many Thanks Eddie

1949 Ford Trunk Hinges
Posted: 2006-02-06 21:24:00.0
Posted by: handybob
Am trying to help a friend who has a 1949 Ford - he wants to have the trunk hinges re-chromed but is at a loss how to remove the pin holding the two parts together. Thanks.

1949 Ford Trunk Hinges
Posted: 2006-02-07 03:39:41.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The pins have to be drilled out very carefully. Once rechromed, new pins have to be tapped in. You could leave the pins in place and have the chroming done, but afterwards will need to soak the assembly in oil to free up the movement. Generally, such hinges are available in reproduction parts and are probably less expensive than the chroming costs.

Steering wheel paint
Posted: 2006-02-12 10:43:41.0
Posted by: scottnomad
I've got the problem with the bleeding thru from the material in the steering wheel. I sanded it down again, used Eastwoods PRE cleaner and prime it as you said, however before the primer was dry the yellowish brown color came thru. The wheel is a plastic/rubber material probably made in Chine. Any thoughts.

Steering wheel paint
Posted: 2006-02-13 03:28:27.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We'll do some research, but don't have a ready solution. Some of the materials from China are weird and non-standard. You should also contact one of the steering wheel restoration shops (lots on the web) and get their opinion too.

56 Chevy will not start
Posted: 2006-02-14 08:18:45.0
Posted by: chevy
My 56 chevy has 83K original miles. I have a 235 straight inline 6 engine model 210 4 dr sedan. The engine was rebuilt in 96. I've recently replaced the battery, sparkplugs and wires, points & condensor, ignition coil, gastank,fuel sender, fuel line, fuel filter & bowl, valve lifters,neutral safety switch & rebuilt carberator. She still won't start in cold weather. In the past 45 years it would start in hot or cold weather with no problem, now it won't. What else could possibly be keeping it from starting?

56 Chevy will not start
Posted: 2006-02-15 06:11:55.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The first thing to check is to make sure the choke is working correctly. Don't assume it is without inspecting it. Then, assuming your points are set at the proper dwell(low dwell setting equals minimal spark, and don't rely on the point gap mechanical setting - use a dwell meter)you should check the ignition timing. If it's too far retarded it might have trouble starting cold. Remove a spark plug and ground it against the engine while cranking. Is there a good, white/blue spark? If not your ignition will be too weak to start cold.

56 Chevy will not start
Posted: 2006-06-23 07:07:39.0
Posted by: jaime
....try adding dry gas and some lead substitute to the gas tank.

Need to get a paint gun what to get?
Posted: 2006-02-18 14:33:26.0
Posted by: veener88
I have a 1929 Model A in shop that I need to get going on and today my father bought a 1941 Dodge 1 ton stake bed truck. He needs my help in repaiting it and I need to paint my Model A in the next year or so. I work for Snap-on tools but I do not work as a dealer I work on our office and I do not have access to our sales to ask for what I should buy and I can not get my discount through a local dealer. What I am wondering is I have always heard you need to have a gun for primer and a gun for the finish paint. What I am wondering is what guns should I buy for these applications. Also in my shop I have a 1978 Lincoln and I have to repaint our 1993 Chevy truck.

I just want to make sure I buy the right stuff the first time.

Thanks for any help.

Need to get a paint gun what to get?
Posted: 2006-02-19 04:27:52.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
It's always better to have separate guns (with different orifices) for primer and finish coats. Basically, any gun of marginal quality can shoot primer just fine. You always end up sanding off the flaws and runs anyway.
For finish coat, a Devilbiss or Binks gravity feed gun is a very good choice in the $120-$200 range. Stay away from the cheaper off-brand copies of these guns from China that you see in catalogs. HVLP guns take practice to use, are "touchy" to set up and require a big compressor and 3/8" air hose to work properly. Go to your local auto paint supply store and let them talk to you about the gravity feed guns.

A/C condensor for T-Bird
Posted: 2006-02-21 06:22:01.0
Posted by: Eddie Paskey
Many thanks for the T-Bird article. On my 55 bird I put the condensor under the right front fender with an electric fan. Used a condersor/fan assembly for a Isuzu cabover truck, it's small and compact with alot of capacity. With the condersor in front of the rad I was running hotter than I like, even with a specially built rad. Another note, if you are running R134 remember that the head pressure will be higher than withh R12, which will be more heat going into the rad. After changing back to R12 the car was still a little hotter than I was comfortable with so put condensor under fender. No more overheat (parades-traffic-or whatever). In the past I have used this setup on several hot rods that we put A/C in. Sure have used you knowledge on my car as I'm doing a wire loom change, putting Ron Francis kit in the trunk. Have a very bad back and just can not work under the dash for very long. Many Thanks Eddie Paskey

55 Ford Fairlane Steering & Door Glass
Posted: 2006-02-23 09:26:42.0
Posted by: RetroJim
I have a 1955 ford fairlane . I love my car but hard to steer . Is there a way to change the gear ratio or the steering box ?
Is there a way or a place to get a power steering set-up ( complete ).
Does anyone have a power steering or a different gear box to sell ?
I also need the drivers side and passengers side front door glass . I have a 4 door .

55 Ford Fairlane Steering & Door Glass
Posted: 2006-02-27 03:37:25.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
There is no way to change the gear ratio in the steering box. We're not sure Ford made different ratio boxes back then, either, and ratios were generally changed by altering the linkage lengths. You should be able to get a power steering setup (used) on Ebay. We've seen a number of them over the past year on the T-Bird area and there was very little difference between models. Door glass is available from the restoration parts suppliers or you can have it cut at a local auto glass shop.

Tracing an original vin
Posted: 2006-02-23 12:57:25.0
Posted by: SCFisher
I own a 1955 T-Bird. How do I trace the original owner if I have the vin?

Tracing an original vin
Posted: 2006-02-24 04:12:57.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
If you go to our archives and read "how to trace the history of a car" it will give you lots of ways to go about finding the original and subsequent owners. It's not fool-proof but it does work most of the time. If you search VIN decoders online for T-Birds you should be able to get the build date/colors/options and go from there.

1953 Dodge Meadowbrook Stalling/stumbling
Posted: 2006-02-23 14:38:59.0
Posted by: Jefro
So here's the lowdown:

1953 Dodge Meadowbrook 2-dr Suburban (Wagon)
Flathead 6
3 Speed Manual
~88K

Already rebuilt Carb (B&B Single)
Cap, Rotor, Points & Plugs checked and in good shape (have not checked wires yet)
Checked fuel filter, cleaned. Pump pressure checked - seems like good flow into carb.
Tranny seems fine.

Starts and idles fine (as fine as a 6 volt system does), but when load is put on (we are accelerating - and not necessarily very quickly) engine while driving (after ~200-300 yards) while WARM (being cold seems to help it to run more smoothly), it starts to stumble - first slowly then enough to stall out the engine. From there it will start, but quickly stumbles or stalls out. If we let it "cool" down a bit (not overheating though), it'll let us limp for a while. Then repeat till home. Funny thing - reverse does not seem to have nearly the same impact - though I only have backed it in a few yards that way to park. Probably nothing - but just in case.

Some things I'm thinking:
Wires - though everything else is in good shape
Some sort of electrical short (At firewall?)
Still a carb issue (Float? - though we are getting good flow into the "tank")
Water/dirt in the fuel line (though it doesn't seem to have any issues idling)
Heat Riser (though it does not seem to be stuck open or closed, and not experiencing extreme overheating)
Fuel Pump failing (perhaps pressue is on/off - we have not experienced that, but would explain some of the issues)

Stuck - any help would be much appreciated!

1953 Dodge Meadowbrook Stalling/stumbling
Posted: 2006-02-24 03:49:29.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
What you describe is probably fuel related. You need to check the pump pressure on your fuel pump and it should be somewhere between 2-4 psi. You should also run some raw gas into a glass bottle while you have the fuel line disconnected and are checking the pump. There might be water in the gas and it will show up as two distinct layers. Lastly, it's always possible that the power section of the carburetor isn't set up correctly (see our theory artical on carburetors) and also that the coil is faulty and breaking down.

1953 Dodge Meadowbrook Stalling/stumbling
Posted: 2006-02-24 19:27:55.0
Posted by: Jefro
Thanks. I replaced the coil, as we had already checked the fuel & water issue. The carb still needs a bit of tuning, but overall, it runs quite a bit better. The coil had been installed by the previous owner a bit too hard clamp-wise.

New chick
Posted: 2006-02-23 18:46:25.0
Posted by: Lefty Lucy
Hey all just wanted to say howdy and thank the management for taking the time to put together such a great site! I have a 52 caddy and lots to learn...lots of the other tech type groups I've looked at are often a little over my head, and I am truly grateful to find a place with folks that have the patience to get back to basics! Thanks again :)

Turn signal problem
Posted: 2006-02-25 13:43:46.0
Posted by: jquesal
I'm having a problem with my turn signals. Right signal on: front bulb flashes normally, no rear bulb lit. Left signal on: front bulb flashes normally and both rear bulbs flash at same time. Emergency flashers work normally. Help anyone?

Turn signal problem
Posted: 2006-02-26 04:49:34.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
WIth the right signal on, no light coming from the rear bulb usually means that the bulb itself is faulty. However, since both rear bulbs flash when the left signal is on you'll have to look at the emergency flasher switch. It's most probable that there's a fault in the switch that completes the circuit on the left and disallows current flow on the right.

Coating for exhaust
Posted: 2006-02-26 14:22:46.0
Posted by: eufaula
Can I coat my exhaust manifolds to keep them looking new? Will they still look original?

Coating for exhaust
Posted: 2006-02-27 03:33:01.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
There are a number of exhaust coatings that work well and look quite good, if not totally original. Eastwood makes one that you brush on and bake, and it comes in a neutral gray and darker gray color. There are exhaust manifold sprays that essentially do the same thing, available at most auto parts stores.
Never use ordinary paint (it will burn off) and none of these products will work on manifolds that haven't been thoroughly cleaned of rust and dirt.

Forum Archives continued on Page 4