SCG Classic Car Forum Archive - Page 2

Water Leak
Posted: 2005-06-16 18:15:56.0
Posted by: donada
When it rains my 1967 Mustang gets a build-up of water under the carpeting in front of the passenger's seat. There doesn't seem to be any leaks around the windshield. Do you have any suggestions as to what might be the cause of the problem? Thank you, Donald

Water Leak
Posted: 2005-06-17 03:18:15.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Water gets into cars through glass seals most often, but it also gets in through the doors. Very often, the small drain slots in the bottom of the doors get clogged with dust,dirt,debris, and hold a puddle of water at the bottom (the water gets in past the fuzzy outer weatherstrip on the door). The water then flows out of the door behind the trim panel and onto the floor area.
Another source of leaks is the slotted vent area behind the hood at the base of the windshield. The heater gets its air from there and, if the tubing/sealing isn't up to par, will flow into the car.

Water Leak - 1967 Mustang
Posted: 2005-06-19 17:15:38.0
Posted by: donada
As you suggested I went through the process of locating the leak and found it at the base of the right-hand air vent outlet just above the heater inlet gasket. There is a about a two inch flange or collar at the base which has seperated or rusted through and this is allowing the water to drip on to the carpet when it rains. Have you run into this problem and if so, what would be a good way to repair the cowl collar? Thank you.

yellow engine block
Posted: 2005-06-23 19:15:51.0
Posted by: Jimmy D
does anyone out there have any info on a 1956 chevy nomad 265 motor that was painted yellow (I believe) at the factory. Until recently I was under the impression that all 265 motors were painted red. Thanks in advance for any info you may have on this mystery

yellow engine block
Posted: 2005-06-24 03:32:27.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We don't know of any specific situation regarding Nomad engine colors, but there are several possible reasons for your yellow engine. 1) It could have been a specially-tuned/modified engine done at the factory for a VIP, which could have been a dealer or other GM-favored individual. Car companies did sometimes paint such special-project engines a different color. 2) The engine might have been rebuilt by a commercial factory (Jasper, etc.)and resold to Sears, Pep Boys, etc. Such engines were painted specific colors to designate the selling company. 3) Some previous owner cleaned up the engine and decided to paint it yellow. We know of such a case with a Jaguar XK120 owner who "mysteriously" had a green engine (the blocks were always black and the heads either red, gold or natural aluminum). The Jaguar archives traced the engine back to the early 1950s and speculated it might have been a racing engine, but after the present owner finally found the son of the original owner and asked him about it, the son told him that his father just liked green engines and painted it that way the day after he bought the car. So it goes...

yellow engine block
Posted: 2006-04-19 17:26:56.0
Posted by: Bobert
My brother in law had a 57 Chevy in 1961 with a yellow engine block so that's at least one more that was out there. My recollection is that it was also a 265 not 283.

Cowl vent repair instructions
Posted: 2005-07-01 13:27:23.0
Posted by: turboed-mav
Hi there Classic car enthusiasts!!

Check out this link to find out about cowl vent repair. It describes a Maverick cowl vent but the procedure is pretty much the same for both cars...

http://www.maverickcomet.com/defaultCookies.asp?T=151950194&O=360

Hope it helps...

Cowl vent repair
Posted: 2005-07-01 13:33:31.0
Posted by: turboed-mav
Sorry.. the link on the previous message takes you to "maverick/comet.com" once there... click on "features" and then on "tech articles" and you'll find the pictures and description for the cowl vent repair... I couldn't "cut and paste" the link directly... I'm not very computer savvy.... sorry.

i've lost keys for 1956 buick century
Posted: 2005-07-05 05:40:22.0
Posted by: 21st century
Will the glove-box key that i'm gonna have made, open the trunk?

i've lost keys for 1956 buick century
Posted: 2005-07-05 10:03:42.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Losing keys for old cars is common, but replacement lock cylinders are available for most popular brands, including Buick. The glove box key that's being made might open the trunk, since most cars made back then had 2 keys: one for ignition, one for locks. If not, any locksmith can remove the trunk lock and remake the cylinder to fit your new key.

i've lost keys for 1956 buick century
Posted: 2005-07-06 13:44:33.0
Posted by: 21st century
Thank you scg staff! You can pass this knowledge to fellow buick restorors;the door cylinder key which the locksmith had in stock,fits all locks,including ign.

Breaking Free a Frozen Engine
Posted: 2005-07-16 19:36:59.0
Posted by: gwestbrook
I don't see any articles on breaking free a frozen engine. Am I seraching wrong, or has such an article not yet been done?

Breaking Free a Frozen Engine
Posted: 2005-07-21 03:05:56.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We haven't done one yet and, in fact, hadn't thought of doing so. No two frozen engines are quite the same, but here are a few tricks.
1) fill the cylinders with fuel oil or diesel and let it sit for a week or so. Siphon it out and try cranking the engine.
2) Pull the heads and any other parts removable, then give the block to a machine shop to put in the cleaning tank. This will free it up.
3) Buy a rust-dissolving solution and fill the cylinders with it. Leave it for a few days.
4) Last resort: remove the heads and crank, cam, etc. and pound the pistons out from the bottom with a sledge and drift.

How to prep surface rust
Posted: 2005-07-20 12:25:20.0
Posted by: Alohaz
I recently purchased a 1962 Corvair Spyder which is all original, but unrestored. The car had been parked under a car port in southern California since 1976, so there is a fairly uniform layer of surface rust working through the original paint. (Fortunately, there is no "body cancer" rust.) I would appreciate any thoughts on how to properly prep the car for a new paint job, so that the rust does not eventually stain/come through the new paint.
Thanks in advance.

How to prep surface rust
Posted: 2005-07-31 03:42:34.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
There is only one way to handle rust and that's to remove it. Since your problem is only surface ruse, sand the body with 400-600 grit paper to get the metal clean and shiny. Wipe it down with metal prep (phosphoric acid) after cleaning and then prime with etching primer. Now it will be ready for paint prep.

Trans Stall Speed converter
Posted: 2005-10-15 21:34:18.0
Posted by: Eddie Paskey
Hi All; Just to bring you up to speed on my 55 Bird. Took your advice and changed the torque converter to 1500 stall speed. What a wonderful difference. Also, put in a 57 dist. with a restriction in the manifold vac line approx..030. Again a fantactic difference. TIming set at 12 degress with vac line plugged while adjusting. Next will be a 57 manifold. I have a carter afb that I will be using. Sure appreciate all of you help!!! The car is 1st again fun to drive. Many Thanks Eddie Paskey

Trans Stall Speed converter
Posted: 2005-07-26 03:34:16.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The C4's converter is a bit too "high" for your 292. The T-Bird's original converter had a stall ratio of 2.1:1, which would loosely translate to a stall speed of 1500-2000. Your engine needs to rev up quite a bit to get the turbines in the converter to transmit power, hence the bogging down you're experiencing. You might want to contact a converter company such as TCI Automotive and ask them for advice on what you should use.

Trans Stall Speed converter
Posted: 2005-07-23 22:33:32.0
Posted by: Eddie Paskey
First let me thanks you all for the great tips that you so willingly give. Had a C4 trans put in my 55 T-Bird, 2400 stall converter,,engine stock 292 was a 3 speed. Now it is lazy of the line, Advanced timing and helped a little what do you think? Do I too much converter. Any advise would be greatly appreciated Eddie Paskey

Mig welding with or without the gas tank in place.
Posted: 2005-07-28 10:54:23.0
Posted by: John Guess
Hi.

I just joined "second Chance". I have a question about welding on vehicles. I am going to start restoring a 1985 Silverado pickup and I am planning to mig weld new cab corners and rocker panels on both sides of the truck. I am new to mig welding and have a general safety question. The gas tank on this truck is just behind the drivers side rockers, I was going to remove the tank before welding on the drivers side. Is it required to remove the tank before doing ANY welding on a vehicle? I have checked several resources and I have not been able to find anything on the subject. Thanks in advance for your help.

John

Mig welding with or without the gas tank in place.
Posted: 2005-07-29 03:50:55.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
While it isn't necessary to remove gas tanks before welding on areas not nearby, it's always a good idea to take steps to prevent sparks from igniting gas or oil fumes. Sparks from welders can fly pretty far, so if you're welding in an engine bay, for example, blanket the flamable areas (carburetor, valve covers, etc.) with a wet cloth. This smothers fumes and, because it's wet, won't easily burn itself. If you are near the tank, cover the filler neck and any vent tubes (older vehicles have vents) with wet cloths.
If you remove your tank make sure it's not close to your work area. If at all possible, drain it and store outside.

tranny yoke question
Posted: 2005-07-30 19:46:11.0
Posted by: MThaler
I'm doing a '53 ford customline with a t5 transmission like your pickup. When I put the yoke onto the end of the transmission, do I add grease to the shaft it rides on? There's no kind of seal or anything to keep the grease in.

thanks
Mike

tranny yoke question
Posted: 2005-07-31 03:44:53.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The yoke should be splined to fit over the transmission's output shaft. You should always put a thin film of grease on the splines. This allows movement without binding as the truck drives along.

63 galaxie dashpad removal
Posted: 2005-08-11 10:00:28.0
Posted by: galaxie
I'm very new to all this....need to know how do I go about removing the dashpad on my '63 Ford Galaxie Convertible. Thanks for any help. If reply please put "Galaxie" in subject...otherwise I might not read it. Thanks

63 galaxie dashpad removal
Posted: 2005-08-12 03:26:28.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Some dashes are removable, but some are not. Your dash, if removable, will have some screws under the windshield base trim. These fasten the front of the dash to the body's firewall/windshield structure and run around the perimeter. There will also be a mounting bolt at each end of the dash (underneath, of course) where it mounts to the "A" pillar body structure. You will have to remove the parking brake fixture also, as well as the steering column.
You will need to disconnect a fair amount of wiring as well, so if you don't have a shop manual or body assembly manual you should get one soon. Take photos of each little step along the way so you won't forget how it all goes back together.

63 galaxie dashpad removal
Posted: 2005-08-11 14:59:04.0
Posted by: galaxie
Thanks for the response, but as I stated I'm new at this and called it the
wrong thing. I want to remove the entire dash..dashpad AND metal dash
underneath it. I have to get access to this area. I have removed the
decorative trim at the windshield base, and the trim over the defrost
outlets. I have also removed the chrome pillars (They needed rechrome) I
have removed the hex screws at the flange of the metal dash that are at the
windshield base and three screws going from the instrument cluster into the
dash. I thought it would slide out...I can't see anything else holding it.
I have not removed the speaker grill. Is this what is stopping it from
sliding out?

63 galaxie dashpad removal
Posted: 2005-08-11 12:20:22.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
63 Galaxies are great looking cars, by the way. Removing the dash pad will require the removal of any trim at the windshield base, "A" pillar and along the dash front where the pad ends (usually a stainless strip). Next, crawl under and take off the radio speaker grill by removing the 4 nuts holding its threaded legs in. If any instruments are surrounded by the pad you have to remove them. After the trim is removed you need to peel the pad off the metal dash surface. This can be a real tug-of-war, or the foam underneath might have turned to dust. You can release glue with a hot-air gun. Clean up the residual glue/foam with mineral spirits and lots of patience.

the AC works great, but I can't use it
Posted: 2005-08-12 11:16:19.0
Posted by: T.R. III
It's been a protracted, incremental diagnosis of a persistent and perplexing problem. Subject is a 1978 Ford Granada with a rebuilt 250 4.1L 1bbl inline six including a new gas tank. The only modification was in head size upbored from 30 to 40-over mandated by elliptical wear in two cylinder chambers. After installing a clear gas filter in front of the carburator I confirmed vapor lock.
Recently, I replaced the steel line from pump to carb with hose (it was absorbing heat from manifold cover by a gap of only 3/4"). Now it passes through a small radiator in front of factory mount just behind the grill. This resulted in longer build-up to critical failure, but also added hours for recovery. I believe the pump is boiling the gas. My mechanic wants to add a fan and housing/deflector directly in front of the brass pump, but I lean to bypassing it with an inline electric pump. What is the apmerage draw comparison of fan v. pump? What PSI do I need, 6, 7? Where can I get a blocking plate for this application? Not being an high performance engine, suitable after market items are scarce.
Would an auxiliary oil radiator and fan cool things enough with or without a dedicated pump fan? Would prefer to keep the mechanical original, but not at expense of curing vapor lock. The engine and pump just get too d---ned hot, especially with AC or blower on. Thoughts, please.

the AC works great, but I can't use it
Posted: 2005-08-16 03:58:54.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Okay, let's take it from the top. I assume you confirmed vapor lock because you saw air bubbles in the clear inline filter. However, you will find air bubbles in almost any inline filter, so that diagnosis may or may not mean anything in your case.
You obviously have a problem, however, and it seems (without further troubleshooting) to be centered on your fuel pump. Replacing lines has helped, but the "recovery" time has increased. Have you tested the pump's output pressure and flow? Have you checked to make sure the carburetor's atmospheric vent isn't clogged?
Assuming proper tests have been made and a replacement pump doesn't solve the problem, my suggestion would be to install an electric pump rather than a fan. The electric pump draws far less current than a fan and will be more effective than auxiliary cooling the lines.
As for pump pressure, most Fords used about 4 psi pump pressure, but you can find that information in the shop manual for your engine.

the AC works great, but I can't use it
Posted: 2005-08-16 11:59:14.0
Posted by: T.R. III
Bubbles? The darned thing was empty. I spent more than 3 1/2 hours watching it slowly refill, drop by drip. Kinda wish I were into the meditation thing. The pump is barely a year old, and I am told it was working just fine after the engine rebore two months ago. It seems fine as long as the AC is off. As for the carburator, it was rebuilt prior to the rebore and thoroughly cleaned twice subsequently.
Based on radiant heat when hood is up, I deduce that the pump simply is boiling the gas. It is the primary hot spot in the comparment and takes longest to cool. Have decided to swap it for an inline electric, but can not determine which best suits this application; they mostly are for high performance blocks.
So far the possibilities are the new Facet PosiFlo 06SV and maybe the Holley Red. I've read and heard things about both. Still, I need to know the proper flow rate for this engine. Many thanks for the PSI rating; will try to confirm elsewhere. I've been told to go higher than specs, but can only guess what that would be. Of the two service manuals I bought one was an owners' manual and the other a promotional folder. Supposedly, there's a real one on the way.
Lastly, am considering cooling the (JATCO) tranny lines in addition to insulating everything. That engine plain just gets too d---ed hot.
Suggestions, please.

the AC works great, but I can't use it
Posted: 2005-08-17 03:44:56.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Well, your description of the pump problem is quite convincing, so the eletric in-line pump is the best option. Don't go higher in pump pressure than spec, as some seem to have advised you. This results in forcing too much fuel into carburetor float bowls under certain conditions.
Transmission coolers are always useful in removing excess heat. They are inexpensive and easy to install.

Workshop plans
Posted: 2005-08-16 15:22:43.0
Posted by: msco123
Anyone have info on the design and layout for restoration workshop? I want to build a shop adjacent to my house and need some advice on work area sizes, etc.

Workshop plans
Posted: 2005-08-17 04:02:15.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Your question is a tough one to answer in a brief way, not to mention that there is no "right" shop layout. We'll give a few general ideas, however, to help you think out your space.
Our main garage is 24X24 feet, with a 20-foot door (for ease of jockying cars in and out). Typical garages are 20X22, which doesn't leave enough room between cars, nor for the necessary work bench space.
The entire rear end of the garage is lined with 24-inch wide workbench, with drawers, and the walls above are hung with old kitchen cabinets. The furnace/air conditioner unit is located in the center of the benches so that a runaway car won't crash into it.
On the right side wall of the garage (as viewed from the door opening) are the vertical compressor, sand blast cabinet and electric oven (for powder coating). That leaves an area of about 22' deep and 20' wide for the car(s). Ideally, during a restoration only one car is in the garage, so the floor space is adequate for both the body and the frame to sit separately. Our hydraulic lift is located on the left bay side of the garage, leaving the maximum floor space between the lift and the right side for body work, welding, etc.
We have a regular door located on the right wall of the garage at the front, for access without opening the big door all the time. We built a sliding pocket for the access door so it wouldn't have to swing into the garage space when opening.
If you are building a garage from scratch, plan on a taller roofline so that you can build a sturdy loft above the shop. The more space you have for "stuff" the better off you will be.

Workshop plans
Posted: 2005-08-19 04:36:48.0
Posted by: msco123
Thanks for the info. My main concern is how much work space you need around the car itself. For example, should there be a 3' wide work area around the car or is 5' or maybe 6' better.

56 cent.rear win.molding removal ;Tips appreciated
Posted: 2005-08-30 03:43:56.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Window molding can sometimes be a real challenge to remove. While your front molding was relatively easy to pry out, the rear might be imbedded in the window rubber gasket. If you can't pry it out without bending (a wooden spatula is a great tool for this) then take out the window with the gasket and molding attached. Once it's out you can bend the rubber to remove the molding.

56 cent.rear win.molding removal ;Tips appreciated
Posted: 2005-08-29 11:48:17.0
Posted by: 21st century
Hello fellow restorers!
The frnt win mold. on my buick was no problem!The rear needs a
experianced body man.

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