SCG Classic Car Forums Archive - Page 15

55 Tbird seat removal
Posted: 2007-08-10 15:11:58.0
Posted by: yallerbird
The resto article on the Tbird didn't cover removal of the seat, but did a fine job on recovering it; does anyone know how the darn thing with power assist comes out? There's about a zillion gee-gaws underneath, and location of everything is by feel only. The shop manual is no good as it just shows that there are a zillion gee-gaws to contend with. Thanks, Doug Pellom in Utah USA

55 Tbird seat removal
Posted: 2007-08-11 04:26:31.0
Posted by: Les
The best way to remove the seat is to raise it as high - and forward - as possible. Looking at the underside of the track at either end (left, right) of the seat you will see two mounting studs with nuts. Removing the nuts (two on left, two on right) will allow you to lift the seat off the track. Once the seat is off removing the track is straightforward and all mounting hardware for the track and motors is visible.

55 Tbird seat removal
Posted: 2007-08-11 08:40:51.0
Posted by: yallerbird
Thanks for the input; I got it off. dp

ENGINE RELIABILITY
Posted: 2007-08-16 09:38:32.0
Posted by: j1027l
I AM IN THE PROCESS OF RESTORING A 1953 PLYMOUTH. IT HAS THE STOCK ENGINE AND AN OVERDRIVE TRANSMISSION. MY QUESTION IS WILL THIS BE A RELIABLE COMBINATION TO RUN AFTER CONVERTING TO 12V NEGATIVE GROUND SYSTEM? I PLAN ON HAVING AIR CONDITIONING ON THIS VEHICLE. I NEED TO KNOW IF I CAN RELY ON THIS CAR TO PULL A SMALL "CASITA" ALL FIBERGLAS TRAILER WEIGHING APPROXIMATELY 1,200 POUNDS. I REALLY WOULD LIKE TO RETAIN THE STOCK ENGINE AND OVERDRIVE TRANSMISSION, BUT WOULD LIKE THE CREATURE COMFORTS AS WELL. I OWN 2 OF THE ENGINES AND WOULD OVERHAUL ONE OF THE ENGINES AND THAT WOULD BE THE FINAL ENGINE IN THE CAR. ANY HELP ON THIS MATTER FROM ANYONE WOULD BE APPRECIATED. THANKS, JIM

ENGINE RELIABILITY
Posted: 2007-08-17 04:08:37.0
Posted by: Les
Your original engine should have enough torque to pull a light trailer and should be substantial enough to run A/C. However, you should rebuild one to higher compression (more torque)than stock and look into additional carburetion (2 1-bbl carb or one 2-bbl). Most importantly, make sure you get an oversized radiator to handle the additional cooling loads that you will put the engine through.

CONVERTING ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Posted: 2007-08-16 09:44:03.0
Posted by: j1027l
I AM CURIOUS AS TO WHAT IS NECESSARY TO CONVERT A 6 VOLT POSITIVE GROUND SYSTEM TO A 12 VOLD NEGATIVE GROUND SYSTEM. I AM AWARE THAT THE TANK SENDING UNIT WOULD NEED TO BE ADDRESSED, BUT WHAT ABOUT THE COIL AND STARTER? ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED

CONVERTING ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Posted: 2007-08-17 04:15:19.0
Posted by: Les
Basically, light bulbs and switches don't care what the polarity is, but of course you'll have to change all the bulbs to 12 volts. You need a 12-volt coil, horn relay and tank sending unit. The starter wouldn't normally need to be changed in a 12-volt conversion but in this case (positive to negative ground)you will have to do so. Your gauges will need to have their +/- wires reversed but should otherwise operate, but if their range is way off you can install a 2-ohm, 10 amp dropping resistor in the + wire. Your wiring is plenty thick enough to handle the voltage, so no need to replace any that isn't broken or damaged.

Body panel replacement problem
Posted: 2007-08-17 08:21:33.0
Posted by: grantpark
We are a repair shop in Milw. Wi. that does restorations and body shop along with mechanical repairs. We and other shops are having a problem with body panels that are warping somewhat after replacement . the car looks great after finished painting and final buffing but when put in the sun the replaced panel seam is warping in the heat. No one around here can figure it out why it is doing it . Any information on the matter would be greatly apprecated or if you refer us to someone.

Body panel replacement problem
Posted: 2007-08-23 04:28:11.0
Posted by: Les
We've heard similar comments from others over the years. While we don't know of any scientifically measured data, the prevailing theory is that the steel being used by the repro panel sellers is too dissimilar to the older, maleable steels used in older cars. As you know, some replacement panels are thinner also, creating lots of mis-match difficulties. Unfortunately, we don't have any suggestions on how to prevent the problems other than using salvaged original panels.

Regarding GM 10-bolt read ends
Posted: 2007-08-19 16:48:07.0
Posted by: middy
Anybody have much experience with these? I'm still plugging away on that '66 Chevelle. The stock rear was a 3.08 10-bolt. I bought a 4.11 positrac 10 bolt rear, and the seller claims it came out of a late 70's Oldsmobile. What I'd love to find out is - are all 10-bolt car rear ends similar enough that I could transplant the 4.11 gears & posi unit from the one I bought into my car's original 10 bolt housing?

My thinking is - this way I wouldn't have to do any welding on the axle housings to get my trailing arm/shock/spring mounts where they need to be, and I'd have a stock width unit & not need to use offset wheels. Do a little work to avoid a little work I suppose.

Regarding GM 10-bolt read ends
Posted: 2007-08-21 03:38:35.0
Posted by: Les
If your new assembly fits into the old housing without modifications, feel free to use it. GM used the same suppliers for its divisions most of the time so there's no reason not to give the switch a try.

throwout bearing 1952 Chev
Posted: 2007-08-28 16:47:18.0
Posted by: normal
Restoring a 52 Chev car styleline with a 1954 235 straight 6. The new clutch plate is thinner than the old one, and I'm told I need a longer throwout bearing. The manual has no part number, and I haven't found anyone who can tell me what I need. including NAPA. Can you help? I've searched the Internet for hours.
By the way, your restoration information was great!

throwout bearing 1952 Chev
Posted: 2007-08-29 03:50:44.0
Posted by: Les
Your best bet is to consult a Hollinger Exchange Manual (library or internet) to see what throwout bearing matched with the thinner pressure plate, but first you should verify that the plate is correct.

throwout bearing 1952 Chev
Posted: 2007-08-29 11:40:22.0
Posted by: normal
I searched a long time for 'Hollinger Exchange Manual' without useful results.

However, I did find a source to buy "Hollander Interchange Manuals" which describes interchangeable parts from vehicles of that era. Is that the source you meant?

Also Chev's of the 40's has a manual for sale for interchangeable parts.

Thanks for the help.

Master Cylinder Cap Removal
Posted: 2007-08-28 20:18:19.0
Posted by: luvmy58
I recently purchased a 1958 Olds 88 which appears to be in decent condition. I,m a newbie and figured the first thing I should do is check out the brakes. However I cant remove the cap on the master cylinder. Any ideas for how to loosen it would be appreciated.

Master Cylinder Cap Removal
Posted: 2007-08-29 03:51:59.0
Posted by: Les
It's stuck to the rubber gasket underneath. Try gently heating it with a heat gun or hair blower and tap it from underneath with a wooden or leather hammer.

Engine Smoking
Posted: 2007-09-03 15:19:37.0
Posted by: luvmy58
Every time I start the engine I get smoke escaping from my oil spout. As a newbie I think this might be bad rings but I really do not know. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.

Engine Smoking
Posted: 2007-09-04 03:53:22.0
Posted by: Les
If smoke comes out of the fill cap it indicates high pressure in the crankcase. That almost certainly means that the crankcase ventilation system is clogged, which means the PCV (or other system) valve is faulty. If your car has a vent tube (pre-PCV) the mesh filter is probably clogged up and needs to be cleaned.

52 Chev differential gears
Posted: 2007-09-05 14:50:14.0
Posted by: larrybroga
Does anyone know where I can purchase a 3:55.1 ratio gear set for a 1952 Chev Styleline Deluxe / 3 speed ?

52 Chev differential gears
Posted: 2007-09-29 04:51:30.0
Posted by: Les
check with National Drivetrain. They make gear sets for practically anything

1950 cadillac that is hard to start when hot
Posted: 2007-09-05 16:02:16.0
Posted by: Gary Ferko
I have a 50 cad that is hard to start when hot. I have a new 6 volt battery and a newly rebuilt starter. I do not believe it is a vapor lock. Any help will be appreciated.
thanks

1950 cadillac that is hard to start when hot
Posted: 2007-09-07 07:56:13.0
Posted by: 2003f350
I remember back when I had a 1952 Cadillac, which I wish I still owned. I traded it in 1962. I put many pleasurable miles on that car. Well to answer your question, I had the exact same problem on mine. It would start perfect when cold put not well when hot, which I thought was the result of too large of an engine for 6 volts. The 1953 Cadillac came out with 12 volts if I remember correctly. What I did was buy a special 12 volt battery that had a built in solenoid on top of the battery whereas you would hook just the starter on the 12 volt outlet and it would start on 12 volts, and everything else on the car would still use only 6 volts. What a difference that made , car would start perfect on 12 volts, used it this way for about a year and a half before I got rid of it, didn't effect the 6 volt starter as far as I could tell.
Good luck with your caddy, Ed

painting
Posted: 2007-09-05 20:24:13.0
Posted by: JimmyG
I'm trying to teach myself how to paint cars. I'm a little confused (about a lot of stuff). The instructions on my paint say that I should let it flash for 20 minutes before adding a second coat.

Can the paint stay in my spray gun for the 20 minutes or will it set up in the gun and ruin it. Do I need to clean the gun while the paint is flashing?

Thanks

painting
Posted: 2007-09-06 03:28:32.0
Posted by: Les
The paint can sit in the gun for 20 minutes without problems. All you need to do is shoot a quick burst onto a piece of cardboard when you're ready for the second coat. This blows away any dried paint at the nozzle.

Generator for a 1949 Plymouth Special Deluxe
Posted: 2007-09-14 01:31:21.0
Posted by: Tink
I have been trying to locate a generator for a 1949 Plymouth Special Deluxe (6 volt). Can anyone point me in the right direction.

Generator for a 1949 Plymouth Special Deluxe
Posted: 2007-09-14 04:07:38.0
Posted by: Les
Your best bet is to search online for Plymouth/Chrysler car clubs, usually a good source of parts info. If you have the old generator you can take it to an armature company for rebuilding.

Auto Trans Fluid
Posted: 2007-09-28 15:31:19.0
Posted by: Harper
I have a 1960 T-Bird and the shop manual calls for Ford Automatic Transmission Fluid B8A-19582-A, or Automatic transmission Fluid Type A, Suffix A. Now over at the local parts store, there isn't anything that resembles that. The clerks do not know what to recommend. If there is some light you guys might shed on the subject so that I might use the correct fluid, it would be most appreciated. Thanks....

Auto Trans Fluid
Posted: 2007-09-29 04:50:28.0
Posted by: Les
Your cruisomatic will run fine on Type F fluid, which is spec for pre-1977 Fords, but it's better to flush the whole thing and convert to synthetic fluid. Modern fluids have superior lubricity and heat resistance.

1960 ford pickup
Posted: 2007-09-30 16:41:56.0
Posted by: david
the info your site has on the timing of 1960 ford 223 inline 6 ignition timing says 2 deg incriments ending at 9 deg and to set it at 4 deg . my vibration damper has 3 deg incriments 3 5 7 9 deg ending at 9 deg. should i still try to set it between 3 and 5 or is there an explanation for the differance in timing marks.

1960 ford pickup
Posted: 2007-10-01 03:38:53.0
Posted by: Les
Dampers were supplied by various manufacturers and constantly changed in markings and pulley design as different engine configurations evolved. If an engine is supposed to be set a 4-degrees advance, it needs to be timed to that point regardless of damper design. You can vary the basic advance setting according to distributor/carburetor/compression alterations, if any, made to your engine.

1960 ford pickup
Posted: 2007-10-01 06:09:23.0
Posted by: satch
Hi David:
I double checked with my sources and the "2 degree increments ending at 9" is correct.

Your damper also is correct, it does show 2 degree increments, i.e. 3-4 5-6 7-8 9.

Satch

1960 ford pickup
Posted: 2007-10-01 20:32:38.0
Posted by: david
thanks for the timing marks info. i found some specs at the library. book said 1 to 1 1/2 turns out for the idle mixture screw does that sound right.

1952 chevy 235 cu in tune up
Posted: 2007-10-03 09:49:35.0
Posted by: Les
Modern timing lights can be used, but you need to power it with a 12-volt source like your everyday car's battery. Once you install the timing light's signal pickup on the #1 cylinder plug wire and start the engine, the strobe effect will show you whether the timing mark is aligned or not. Then, and only then, is when you rotate the distributor in tiny increments until the correct marks line up. Don't do any of this, however, until you've replaced the points and set the correct gap/dwell angle (see our article on dwell).

1952 chevy 235 cu in tune up
Posted: 2007-10-03 07:53:44.0
Posted by: emanno2@cox.net
Being a rookie, I need help on trying to tune up the engine.
Can modern timing lights be used?
How do you locate the "steel ball" mark on the fly wheel?
Do you just turn the distributor to line up the ball?
Thanks

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