SCG Classic Car Forums Archive - Page 14

Frame questions
Posted: 2007-07-04 09:21:59.0
Posted by: middy
Just starting a restore on a '66 Chevelle. Currently, the frame is completely stripped and at the sandblaster's. This is deeper than any project I've ever done, and I'll be the first to admit I know very little about frame components.

My question is, how much of an advantage is it to replace the control arms, sway bar, etc with modern pieces designed to provide better handling/stability? I plan to keep this car forever, but it won't be driven much. I'm tentatively planning to install a big block, so committed to replacing the springs, and intend to go with front disc brakes and leaning toward power steering as well. As you might guess, I'm not interested in doing a factory restoration, I just want a nice, solid car I can enjoy driving for the rest of my days.

Frame questions
Posted: 2007-07-11 03:58:30.0
Posted by: Les
You should install modern suspension pieces with disc brakes, etc., to keep the car up to par with the newer vehicles on the road. Your new big block will weight the front end down, so all the more reason to upgrade it.

Frame questions
Posted: 2007-07-11 10:38:26.0
Posted by: middy
Thanks Les. Over the past week, following a number of conversations, I've come to that feeling as well. Planning now to use a disk brake conversion kit, a new set of springs designed for a big block and that will lower the car 1", and a front/rear sway bar kit.

I'm not convinced (but still open-minded) that I should replace the stock upper/lower control arms or the trailing arms. Partially because those are somewhat pricey and partially because I haven't heard or read that the advantage of doing so is substantial, or as substantial as the other things I'm doing. But again, I'm a fully-admitted suspension noob.

convert 6-volt system to 12-volt system
Posted: 2007-07-05 10:55:16.0
Posted by: tomwilliams
I want to convert a 1953 Pontiac Chieftan straight 8. Perhaps you have data on how this conversion is done? What components should be replaced such a btry, gen, regulator, etc? I hear there are 2 options -- 12-volt starting and 6-volt run or 12-volt starting and 12-volt run. I would like a complete electrical schematic diagram. Thank you for your help and I look forward to your reply.

convert 6-volt system to 12-volt system
Posted: 2007-07-09 04:20:09.0
Posted by: Les
You don't need a complete electrical system schematic to do a 12-volt conversion. All you need to do one is to replace all light bulbs with 12-volt equivalents (easy to do because 6-volt bulbs are much harder to find) and also replace the generator, voltage regulator, coil, ignition points. The starter doesn't need to be replaced. Radio, horns, heater blower and other such devices can run by putting a 2 ohm 20-amp dropping resistor (they cost about $10 through J.C. Whitney) in the power lines to each component or at the fuse panel connection to multiple components. Your electrical system wires are more than large enough to carry the 12-volts as long as they aren't broken or otherwise in need of replacement.

1952 Ford Pickup
Posted: 2007-07-10 16:53:03.0
Posted by: dmz044@yahoo.com
Hi, I'm a newbie and would like to know if anyone can give me an approximate value for a 1952 Ford Pickup in good condition...little rust, runs ok, 6 cyl. I know that without thoroughly inspecting it no one can give me an exact figure but I'm looking for ball park. Any feedback would be appreciated.

1952 Ford Pickup
Posted: 2007-07-11 03:56:51.0
Posted by: Les
Current values for '52 Ford pickups range from $3300 for running/restorable condition to $8500 for good/needs paint and interior work to as much as $21,500 for fully restored models. Collector Car Market Review publishes a good up-to-date value guide.

battery charging system
Posted: 2007-07-11 07:54:46.0
Posted by: dbt56kct
Troubleshooting my 57 corvette charging system which is not showing adequate charge while engine is running and significant discharge when headlights are turned on. Generator checks out ok, voltage regulator has been changed,, what next? This non-motor head wants to be able to do and understand this for myself! HELP please ! dbt

battery charging system
Posted: 2007-07-11 08:48:12.0
Posted by: Les
First, take the time to read our theory article on generators and charging systems. Next, use the basics to help you troubleshoot your car. From your description it would appear that either the generator really isn't putting out the proper voltage/current (how was it checked out?) or the battery isn't holding a charge. Your regulator is probably good, but don't assume it is until the system is fully checked. If you are looking at your ammeter, don't assume it is showing what's really going on. Use a good voltmeter to measure the components.

1957 283 v-8
Posted: 2007-07-16 08:50:23.0
Posted by: traindad!
I have a chevy belair with a 283 which can barely move the vehical. I have confirmed that the rest of the drive train (4 spd transmission and rear end are O.K.) The specs I have show the compression ratio is 8.5:1. When I checked compression
I had from 110 to 120 psi. Should a 283 with this level of compression be able to move the belair?

Thanks,
Chuck Winter

1957 283 v-8
Posted: 2007-07-17 05:18:09.0
Posted by: Les
Your description indicates that the engine isn't running well because of incomplete combustion. The 283 should be reasonably peppy, but you need to go through the ignition system to make sure the dwell angle is proper and the coil is putting out sufficient voltage to the plugs. After checking that, reset your timing.

Truck seats
Posted: 2007-07-19 02:43:02.0
Posted by: little red
Can anyone tell me what seats I can put in my 1952 f-1 pick-up? I would like grey buckets,leather,and power. Need make,year,model of car or truck that will work. Thanks Rick

Truck seats
Posted: 2007-07-19 03:51:15.0
Posted by: Les
There aren't any lists of modern seats that fit in various older vehicles, especially trucks. However, in the past if I installed newer seats in a car I measured the floor area and made a drawing with the measurements on it. I then went to a junkyard and looked at cars with seats that appealed to me and measured them to see if they would fit. Mounting the seats into your truck would be a simple matter of locating the tracks where you want and drilling the floor for the hardware. Of course, you need to buy the complete seat assemblies, including any power mechanisms. You should be able to buy the control switches from the junkyard as well and note the wiring connections.

1979 El Camino
Posted: 2007-07-21 15:57:12.0
Posted by: jgrieve
My son bought his dream car, engine runs good, but it needs alot of interior work - dash dried out, cracking, door panels, headliner and the plastic trim is all dried out and cracking. Does this site help with getting ideas on how to go about replacing or fixing the interior? Thanks for any help anyone can offer.

1979 El Camino
Posted: 2007-07-21 16:39:44.0
Posted by: satch
You might try:

How to Install a Padded Dash
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/642.cfm

Upholstery How To: A Complete Interior Part I
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/251.cfm

Upholstery How To: A Complete Interior Part II
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/261.cfm

Upholstery 101 Part 1
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/116.cfm

Upholstery 101 Part 2
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/132.cfm

Check out our article index, and you may find other articles of interest

Satch

Help!!!
Posted: 2007-07-23 11:52:20.0
Posted by: Nicholas09
Im Nicholas Wafer Im 16 years old and Im trying to restore a 1948 Studebake Champion but it has no engine I was woundering how much it would cost to get an engine and what engine would be best for it.

Edited on Jul 23, 2007 11:58

Help!!!
Posted: 2007-07-26 04:16:10.0
Posted by: Les
The best engine for your car would be an original one from that era (1947-1950, for instance)because it will fit all the mounting points and hook up to the harness and cooling system. If you search on the internet and Ebay, Hemmings, Old Cars Weekly, etc., you should be able to find one that someone is giving away or trying to sell. You could probably find a remanufactured one through Jasper Engines, although if they have one it will probably cost about $1500. Most any later engines (chevy, Ford V8's, for instance) can be fitted into the body but would require a lot of adaptation to mount them. We wouldn't recommend such a complicated project for a first-timer.

1954 ford rear end
Posted: 2007-07-30 18:08:07.0
Posted by: mainline
hi everybody i am new to the forum and was wondering if anybody can help me i have asked around and have not been able to find out what size rear end a 1954 ford sedan would have it looks like a nine inch but ford didnt make the 9 inch till 1957 so what would it be and is it worth using Thanks in advance for any info.

1954 ford rear end
Posted: 2007-07-31 04:05:33.0
Posted by: Les
It's probably a Ford 8-inch rear. These were very high quality and would last a long time, but they didn't handle much more than 300 lb-ft or torque. That's why the 9-inch rear came into use.

1954 ford rear end
Posted: 2007-08-01 15:48:26.0
Posted by: mainline
thanks for the reply i guess its possiable that its an 8 inch but i also have a mustang II with the 8 inch and it looks nothing like it. from what i can understand and i could be wrong the 8 inch had a smooth look to it from behind and the one that i have out of the 54 has a hump like a 9 inch do you think if i take it apart it would tell somewhere on the gear ??? i dont really know alot about rear ends and i am trying to decide if i want to use this one or go with something else. but thanks again.

1954 ford rear end
Posted: 2007-08-02 03:56:45.0
Posted by: Les
The ring probably isn't marked but you can measure the diameter (hence the designation) to know for sure.

1954 ford rear end
Posted: 2007-08-03 16:58:37.0
Posted by: mainline
hi again,
well i took the rear end apart and the ring gear measures 8 3/4 inches so i guess maybe its a in between anyway thanks for the input.

James

car window
Posted: 2007-08-01 15:34:51.0
Posted by: drumgeorge
how do i take a passenger front side door window off track so i can get the window out of the car

car window
Posted: 2007-08-02 03:54:59.0
Posted by: Les
Every make/model of car has a slightly different way of removing window glass, and a shop manual is worth the investment. In general, remove the door trim panel to see inside of the door. The lift mechanism can be lowered to see whether the window's mounting track at the bottom can be removed (pinned rollers, E-clips, etc.)from the lift mechanism. If not, you need to remove the crank/lift mechanism to be able to tilt everything until the window's rollers can be slid out of their track.

59 plymouth belvedere
Posted: 2007-08-01 17:55:41.0
Posted by: bamdan
I want paint my plymouth, but don't want to strip the whole car. The orginal paint is still on the car and there is surface rust in some spots, but not too bad. What would you recommend. I have equipment to paint the entire car and some know how, but want to do it right the first time! Thanks

59 plymouth belvedere
Posted: 2007-08-02 03:51:32.0
Posted by: Les
It's really best to strip the whole car to ensure that the new primer/paint adheres properly. The other alternative is to sand the whole car thorougly and inspect every square inch of surface to make sure it's not deteriorated in any way. Surface rust has to be completely removed and the bare metal primed. It's a lot of work to paint a car no matter what the beginning surface might be, so I'd go through the extra effort of stripping the car to bare metal. You'll feel much better in the end.

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