Forums Archive - Page 13

Car hesitates under acceleration - tests so far, .
Posted: 2007-06-10 08:40:36.0
Posted by: bruceg
We set the idle on my sons car. It's a Chevy 350. We set it 8 degrees BTDC. We also replaced the distributer (and cap and rotor), spark plugs (gapped to .045"), and spark plug wires. A friend rebuilt the Carter AFB carb. We also replaced the gas tank (it had a LOT of rust, and was too far gone to clean), the rubber fuel lines and the fuel filter.

The car idles well. It hesitates when we hit the gas, but once it "catches up" to itself, it runs at higher RPMS okay. It doesn't like it when we hit the accelerator, though - and will sometimes stall.

Running vacuum is at a steady 21". It has a very slight, rythmic movement of less than 1/2" if that much. The car does have a performance cam and had been balanced and blueprinted before being parked 12 years ago.

How do we trouble-shoot hesitation and stalling when hitting the gas? With the vacuum gauge on, it goes from 21" down to about 15-10" when we hit the gas and the car hesitates. Once it start running at the higher RPMs, it is right back to a steady 21" and does not drop.

While we did replace the gas tank, sending unit, rebuild the carb and ran new rubber sections of the fuel line - we did not replace the fuel pump.

Also, the transmission (a TH350) has lost most of it's transmission fluid while stored outside for 12 years. We had to add 6 bottles of Dexron III. It is not leaking, and is a nice, clear pink.

Car hesitates under acceleration - tests so far, .
Posted: 2007-06-10 17:01:39.0
Posted by: bruceg
Found it!!! It was the choke. I temporarily removed the choke, and the car ran great. Well enough for my son to leave a little bit of rubber behind and for me to holler at him ;-)

I'll need to find a rebuild kit for the choke. My son took it apart previously, and misplaced some screws and stuff. Darn.

Me and my son's project
Posted: 2007-06-13 10:26:01.0
Posted by: bruceg
My son was at a friend's house a bunch of months back, and noticed a pretty cool looking car parked under a tree, slowly blending in with the flora and fauna. He talked with the owners, and we called a flatbed and brought it home!

The car was built as a father/son project several years ago by the original owner. Was put on the road in '92, and parked under a tree in '95. Hadn't been run in forever. The engine was frozen solid, with only 15K miles on it after a rebuild.

We spent some time with Marvel Mystery Oil and a strap wrench and eventually freed the engine. Ran some SeaFoam through it. Replaced the battery, alternator, distributor cap, spark plug wires, spark plugs, did a few oil changes to get junk out, new fuel lines, new fuel filter, ... It started to run, but really rough! We were sucking junk up into the carb.

We just replaced the fuel tank and sending unit and a friend rebuilt the Carter AFB. It needed a new distributor as well (I really sweated lining up TDC and making sure the rotor was pointed to the #1 spark plug wire - spent a long time sorting that out! I shoulda studied and planned it first).

First try after the fuel tank, distributer, carb rebuild, and here is the result:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=2184979894890059244

We had a huge transmission fluid leak, but found it was only from where the speedometer cable attaches - it was a quick fix.

We checked the idle. It was WAY off! I should have used a timing light to begin with, not simply eyeball the distributor rotor pointing to #1 cylinder!. We did a vacuum test, then we drove around the neighborhood.

Anyway - thought you'd all like to see a short clip of a kit car rumbling back to life. We have a long way to go (suspension, brakes, lube, check all rubber parts, ...) - but it does start, run and drive.

(and a huge thank you to the man who gave it to my son. He's been excited about it for a long time)

ready to paint
Posted: 2007-06-14 20:13:16.0
Posted by: RogerB
Thanks for the article on building a paint booth. I'm getting ready to paint my car and it's my first try at it. I just want to understand the paint better. I've been told that its best to paint when the temperature is in the 70s and the humidity is low. My car is in primer and it's starting to get hot for the summer in NC. Do I have to wait until fall to paint? How is it different from professional car painters who use paint booths with heaters to cure the paint fast? If I paint and it's too hot, what does it do to the paint? Thanks for the information. I need to know as much as I can so that I don't mess up my paint job.

Thanks

ready to paint
Posted: 2007-06-18 03:37:25.0
Posted by: Les
Cars can be painted in temperatures from 55 degrees to over 90, but the reducers need to be chosen for the proper temperature range. Talk with the paint supplier to get the correct reducer. Also, humidity needs to be considered as well, since the compressor will generate a lot of water as it operates. This, in turn, requires a good water separator in the air line.
Painting in warm/hot weather isn't difficult, but you need to keep some air circulating in your booth/garage at a low velocity and you'll get really uncomfortable inside the breathing mask. If it's too hot outside the paint might "skin up" too quickly, but that's what selecting the proper reducer is all about.
As for professional painters using heaters in the booths, that's how the paint cures quickly. You shouldn't worry about the longer cure for your paint job (30 to 60 days before a complete cure) because the car isn't going outside anytime soon.

Restoring shine to fiberglass body/removing mildew
Posted: 2007-06-15 08:52:32.0
Posted by: bruceg
My son's kit car had been outside for 12 years withut cover and hadn't been washed or waxed. The gelcoat looks solid, except for a few places that will need work (a little crazing on a fender, a small section needing repair).

How do you restore faded gelcoat back to a nice shine? We washed it, polished it, waxed it - but it fades back to a dull green shortly afterwards.

Also - any hints on removing mildew spots from vinyl? The door panels and seats have a little bit of mildew on them.

Restoring shine to fiberglass body/removing mildew
Posted: 2007-06-18 03:41:23.0
Posted by: Les
Mildew can be removed with any cleaner designed for the purpose. Marine supply companies sell lots of such products, and you can make some of your own using diluted ammonia.
Your gelcoat has become dull due to UV degradation from the sun and other weather effects. It's not necessary to get it shiny before painting, however, just get it clean.

converting a coupe to convertible
Posted: 2007-06-17 05:12:59.0
Posted by: s-mil105
hi guy's great site! i have a 68 chevelle with a badly rusted roof, im thinking of fiberglassing it in but im also thinking of turning it into a convertible using restoration parts would it be to big of a project to rty converting?

converting a coupe to convertible
Posted: 2007-06-18 03:43:48.0
Posted by: Les
If you really want to do this you'll need to research what structural changes GM made to the Chevelle's body for convertible production. Chances are good they stiffened up the floor and B pillar areas, which means you'll need to do some serious metal work to prevent your altered car from bending at the middle. We'd consider this to be a pretty advanced project, but an interesting challenge.

Minimizing frame flexing when working on the car
Posted: 2007-06-20 10:38:27.0
Posted by: bruceg
I've been working with my son on his car, and we have been using good heavy duty jack stands and blocking the tires. I noticed that the fiberglass on the left front fender was a little cracked. We had it up again to do some work on it, and I noticed a little more cracking in the glass. We checked out the frame, and it seems strong - the frame is built of 2"x3" full-length rails. I'm not seeing rust issues on the frame.

So: when working on the car, should I use 4 heavy-duty jack stands to keep it level? Are roll-up stands safe? How do I keep flexing to a minimum? Would using roll-up stands be similar to simply parking the car on a hill - keeping weight fairly evenly distributed?

I'm still thinking using 4 heavy duty jack stands so I can work on the brakes, a roll-up ramp wouldn't help at all in that situation. Any recommendations?

Minimizing frame flexing when working on the car
Posted: 2007-06-21 03:57:51.0
Posted by: Les
We always recommend using heavy duty jack stands. Roll-on stands are inherently unsafe and there are lots of stories out there where one collapses and injures the hobbyist or damages the car. Using them would, however, be the same as parking the car on a hill.
Your frame is definitely twisting, so the best way to raise the car is by using a floor jack under the engine (on a crossmember, of course) and placing both stands under the a-arms or rear axle. Four stands would not only keep the car's frame in the same plane and unlikely to twist (assuming they are all at the correct height relative to one another) but allows maximum access underneath.

another paint question
Posted: 2007-06-26 11:53:29.0
Posted by: Ron2
Les:

In an earlier post, you said that the main reason that humidity is a factor when painting is because the water in the compressed air doesn't condense out of the air. Is that the only thing? Does humidity have any effect directly on the paint when it's curing?

Thanks

another paint question
Posted: 2007-06-27 03:48:53.0
Posted by: Les
Humidity can affect the gloss and color tone of paint in the worst case. If you are painting in humid conditions wait until the heat of the day (1-2 pm) when the air is less saturated than in morning or evening.

Primer help!!!!
Posted: 2007-06-28 14:00:43.0
Posted by: supraman408
hi i just got my car back from the body shop and there was a few place they didnt primer that i would like to have primered (door jams and trunk). it is still painted the original color and not sanded down.
a) should i sand down the old paint then primer? if so what kind of sand paper should i use and should it be done by hand or by a sanding tool?
b) what kind of spray gun should i use? i was looking at a HVLP spray gun from craftsmens but i dont know if they are reliable or not. also when purchasing a gun, should i buy one with a 1.8mm tip for primers or the tip size doesnt matter?
c) what type of primer should i use?

Primer help!!!!
Posted: 2007-06-29 03:40:05.0
Posted by: Les
You need to clean the painted surface with alcohol or PrepSol (mineral spirits) first to remove waxes and contaminants. Then you need to sand it with 400-600 grit, preferably with wet/dry paper and water, and you just need to get the surface sanded thoroughly. After cleaning it up you can prime.
I'd recommend using good quality etching primer in a spray can. Auto paint stores and some auto parts stores carry it. If you get a spray gun you should use a touch-up gun to keep the spray manageable. HVLP guns take more time to get accustomed to and there's no need to go so hi-tech for the job you're doing.

How do I start
Posted: 2007-07-01 07:05:06.0
Posted by: wtp
I am a newbie to car restoration - have a 1950 Dodge Cornonet that was running about 3 years ago - my son and husband decided to "fix" it and it is now in pieces in the shed and garage. I have decided to adopt this car as my own. What do I do first? body? engine? I also have a reproduction original shop manual to help me along.

Thanks in advance!
I will post pictures as I make progress if any of y'all can help me!


Edited on Jul 01, 2007 07:06

Edited on Jul 01, 2007 07:07

How do I start
Posted: 2007-07-01 16:50:49.0
Posted by: 65DropTop
Hello WTP. I would suggest the following initial tasks:

1. Inspect the frame and body parts for rust. When the rust involves structural portions of the frame/body you will want to have new metal welded in. This is to ensure safety and body integrity. When rust is on a non-structural component, say at the bottom of a door panel (often seen as bubbling beneath paint) then that needs to be addressed. Again, welding in new metal is preferable. All the rust must be removed or it will slowly spread.

2. Look at the engine. If it is in pieces, and you can access the inside of a cylinder, run your finger along the side of the cylinder starting at the bottom and moving toward the top. If there are grooves in the cylinder wall or it is rough, then you do not have a recently rebuilt engine -- and should consider getting a machine shop to a. magnaflux the block, b. machine/rebuild it and install the basic engine internals for you.

3. Importantly, check the brake system for integrity.

4. Cosmetics: Once your welding is done and the car is rustless, consider paint and upholstery.

5. There are several good articles on this website that will help you on these topics.

The bottom line on a lot of these restorations is the extent of vehicular rust. Welding, unless you wish to do it yourself, if often very expensive. I got "a good deal" on my 1965 Mustang convertible (for $4,500) after I knew the previous owner spent considerably more than that on having new floor pans, etc., welded in.

Good luck on your project.

1954 Dodge Royal
Posted: 2007-07-03 13:00:38.0
Posted by: Dodge
Looking to find a Car Club or some type of information on this car. I have one in my garage in good shape, would like to know how much it is worth. I have searched the internet and can only find a few things on this make and model. If any one can get me info I would greatly appreciate it.

1954 Dodge Royal
Posted: 2007-07-04 03:18:44.0
Posted by: Les
THe latest Collector Car value guide shows 1954 Dodge Royals selling for as much as $31,000 for restored/nearly pristine convertibles and $14,650 for the same model 2-door hardtops. As condition goes down the prices dip to $7900 (convertible, #4 condition) to $3100 for the 2-door hardtop. The 2-door sedans sell for $10,500 (excellent condition) down to $1800 for driveable-but-restorable condition and the 4-door sedans sell for $9300 (excellent) down to $1900. Air conditioning, overdrive, automatic and power steering all add value to the prices. If yours is described as good shape (complete, all the trim is good, no rust, running well) you can figure it to be worth about 2/3rds the max value of a given model. You should be able to find a club by searching the internet or on www.hemmings.com for their club listings.

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