Forums Archive - Page 12

1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 4-Door
Posted: 2007-03-26 20:45:09.0
Posted by: The_Jeremiah
hi everyone, i have a 1969 olds cutlass 4-door, and it has almost a mint condition rocket 350. i was wondering if anyone knew a good place to get interior parts, i have searched all over, and all i can find are whole interiors for 4-4-2's. if anyone has any recommendations as to where i can get some new interior peices, i would be very happy to know. thank's everyone.

1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 4-Door
Posted: 2007-03-27 13:42:18.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Your best bet may be to get a copy of the Olds' Parts locator guide:
http://www.gardenofspeedin.com/partslocguides/bkolds.html

There are also many guys that have been holding parts cars for years waiting for the market to come to them. Check with local clubs and ask around at shows. Eventually you will make the connections to find everything you need to finish your project.

1 barrel carter carb. excessive fuel consumption
Posted: 2007-04-10 18:49:19.0
Posted by: mopar69
My neighbor has a jeep with a straight 6 and they had a friend try to fix the flooding problem but they could not. Somehow i volinteered my time to try to solve this problem in trade for a bag full of pez despensers. I love to tinker with almost anything that is broken. I put the kit in and it still has the same problem but not as bad. It looks so simple inside but the problem is still there. What am i missing

1 barrel carter carb. excessive fuel consumption
Posted: 2007-04-24 07:29:11.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
If the carburetor is flooding from the float bowl the bowl's seat is corroded or pitted, thus keeping the new float valve from stopping the flow. If it's leaking from the bottom (throttle) shaft area the shaft bushings are worn out and/or the float vent is clogged.

1951 deluxe convertible 235 eng
Posted: 2007-04-12 19:05:56.0
Posted by: waltnape
The car starts pretty good but after it warms up and I shut it down it won't start until it cools off. The starter is cool to the touch when the engine is warmed-up. Walt

1951 deluxe convertible 235 eng
Posted: 2007-04-24 07:32:14.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We assume you can crank the engine but it won't start. That is indicative of vapor lock, a common problem with cars of that era and further complicated with today's gas. Try pouring some cold water on the fuel line when the engine is warm and then starting.

1951 deluxe convertible 235 eng
Posted: 2007-04-24 08:50:27.0
Posted by: waltnape
the car will start to crank but it bogs down and won't crank when warm, when it cools down there is no problem thanks Walt

1951 deluxe convertible 235 eng
Posted: 2007-05-17 05:56:58.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
you're now describing a problem that happens when the timing is too advanced.

1956 caddy need help !!!! with motor?
Posted: 2007-04-18 19:04:06.0
Posted by: proracer38
i got a cheap deal on a caddy model 62 will a small block chevy and tranny bolt in?

1956 caddy need help !!!! with motor?
Posted: 2007-05-25 14:50:39.0
Posted by: jraspberryt
I just removed a Buick 403 (built by Olds) out of a 79 Electra frame and fitted an 89 small block on to the crossmember quite easily. Take a look at your crossmember just at the motor mounts and see if there are multiple pre-drilled holes. If there are, you may have an easier time with the swap.

1955 Ford six cylinder timing gear
Posted: 2007-05-07 19:31:15.0
Posted by: gothchef
I am putting an old 223 back together and wanted to verify the gear settings on the camshaft and timing gear. Each has a line on the gear. Which is correct alignment? Both markers facing up, facing down or both lines meeting (like the dots on newer engines).

1955 Ford six cylinder timing gear
Posted: 2007-06-24 10:41:37.0
Posted by: electronic_man00
According to my shop manual you line up the marks on the cogs with the dots on the chain. the dots face the left side of the engine if you are sitting in the truck. If there are no dots on the chain put 12 chain pins between the marks on the cogs.
Nic :)

1955 Ford six cylinder timing gear
Posted: 2007-05-07 19:49:01.0
Posted by: gothchef
I misunderstood what my father was asking, and I got my gears confused. What I actually need is the alignment of the crankshaft gear with the camshaft gear, before putting the timing chain into place.

Re-starting a 1969 Lincoln, how to?
Posted: 2007-05-15 13:08:22.0
Posted by: rpowell
I bought a 1969 Lincoln Continental. Car has not run in 8 years. What is the
best way to re-start?? Was runing/driving when parked

Re-starting a 1969 Lincoln, how to?
Posted: 2007-05-17 05:53:54.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The best way is to drain the oil and coolant and replace the fluids and oil filter. Next, drain the gas tank and blow the gas line from the carburetor to the tank with compressed air. The fuel will be in terrible condition and will need to be disposed of. Next, charge the battery and make sure you have jumper cables handy if you need to crank the engine for a long time. Next, inspect the ignition points and if they are corroded or burned, replace and gap them carefully. Next, pull the plugs and wire brush the electrodes. When ready to start, crank the engine with the coil's center wire removed (to prevent firing) for 3 10-second bursts. This will create some oil pressure. Bring the coil wire end to its terminal and hold it there and have someone crank the engine to verify that there is a spark. Next, spray some raw gas into the carburetor and get the engine started.

Re-starting a 1969 Lincoln, how to?
Posted: 2007-06-11 11:18:44.0
Posted by: bruceg
I shoulda read SCG Staff's reply a long time ago! Here is what my son and I did:

The car had been sitting for 12 years. Wasn't prepared for a long hibernation, was simply parked under a tree and left. The engine was frozen solid. It wouldn't move at all. We took out all the spark plugs (after drawing a diagram of the engine, distributor cap and how the spark plug wires were routed). We poured Marvel Mystery Oil down each spark plug hole, and let it sit for a few days.

I picked up a strap wrench and moved the engine a little bit every day after a few weeks - topping off Marvel Mystery Oil as we went. After about a month I was able to get the engine to turn a full revolution. We still kept turning it by hand (with all spark plugs out), until it was fairly easy to turn it.

At that point we drained the oil and coolant. Flushed the radiator. Refilled the engine with 5W30 figuring it would be light enough, and used a new oil filter. I had heard that we should remove the distributor and turn the oil pump by hand to get the top end well oiled. I had also heard that if you don't you could simply bump the starter a few times to get oil up in there. I was new to the whole thing at the time, so did not remove the distributor. (next time I probably will).

We checked the fuel line and replaced the fuel filter. The battery was stone cold dead - so we replaced that. We replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, radiator hoses and fan belt. Then we disconnected the fuel line from where it connects to the fuel pump. (this is a Chevy 350 with a manual fuel pump on the block). We drained fuel from the tank, then drained the rest out of the line. We did not blow the fuel line out. We should have.

We put in clean fuel and it started up! It smoked a LOT from all the Marvel Mystery Oil we had worked through it - but it started.

At this point I got stupid. The car ran real rough, bad idle, no power. I put too much faith in "Mechanic in a Can" solutions - and used Carb and Choke Cleaner in the carb. I also put SeaFoam in the fuel tank and ran some through the carb to clean it out. You should have SEEN all the junk that got picked up by the fuel filter!!!! We went through a couple. We changed the oil a couple times so we wouldn't circulate junk through the engine.

We ended up removing the fuel tank and bringing it to a shop to clean it out. The fuel tank was too far gone. The price to simply replace it was less than the cost to line it - so we replaced it. It still ran rough, so a friend rebuilt the carb.

We also ended up replacing the alternator and the shifter so far. We have a long way to go, but the car runs and drives. We replaced the tires once the car started moving. We still have to sort through the brakes and suspension, and we have a long way to go.

I put a timer on it, and we got it in tune. I did a vacuum test, and results were really good! A steady 21" of vacuum when the engine is running. I haven't done a compression test yet. I should have done that before investing in repairs. If I were to do it again, I'd check compression earlier on in the process.


Edited on Jun 11, 2007 11:22

over heating engine
Posted: 2007-05-17 14:56:44.0
Posted by: flutters
I have a 61 olds 98 holiday sport with 394cid I,ve had the engine hond new cam bearings piston rings new crank with new bearings had heads redone radiator redone but engine still over heats the guy that put it together put something in the radiator looks like fiber glass has large clump of like fiber glass in goose could this have stopped the water ports up sincerely stumped

over heating engine
Posted: 2007-05-18 03:37:51.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
There shouldn't be anything in the cooling system other than coolant. If you have clumps of fibrous stuff in there it's certainly blocking the smaller cavities around the cylinders. You need to remove the radiator hoses and flush the engine out thoroughly, then do the same with the radiator.

Crankcase Ventilation Vintage Corvette Valve Cover
Posted: 2007-05-18 06:39:36.0
Posted by: Tcheairs
I would like to use finned Aluminum Corvette valve covers on my 400ci Chevy small block motor which will be installed in a 1964 Corvette convertible. I am trying to figure a way to come up with a PCV setup and NOT have to add vents to the valve covers. I will be using an oil fill tube and breather cap at the front of the Edelbrock intake manifold, but there is no "blowby" tube at the rear of the block of this engine. Does anyone have any ideas as to how this might be done? Tap into the oil valley through the manifold? and drow vacuum from the carb (holley 700) base? Any ideas?

Crankcase Ventilation Vintage Corvette Valve Cover
Posted: 2007-05-23 04:51:38.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
A quick-and-dirty approach would be to tap into the oil filler tube and insert the PCV there, but you'd not get the ideal amount of crankcase ventilation. The right way would be to get under the intake and suck the crankcase fumes from there. You might be able to find an area at the rear of the intake where you can drill the hole and insert a rubber grommet for the PCV.

Crankcase Ventilation Vintage Corvette Valve Cover
Posted: 2007-07-24 14:04:13.0
Posted by: wblynch
As mentioned above, some people have drilled through the intake manifold into the lifter valley and fit a grommet to hold a PCV valve there that feeds into the rear of the carburetor.

You have to pick your spot carefully to make sure you're not drilling through into an intake or water passage. I'm sorry I don't have a picture but I'm sure you can imagine what I'm describing.

You will need to fabricate a small sheet metal splash shield underneath to keep oil from entering the pcv valve.


Edited on Jul 24, 2007 14:04

1929 Chevy engine bolt torques
Posted: 2007-05-22 08:44:38.0
Posted by: nzcvlh
I am having trouble locating the following bolt torques for my 1929 Chevy 6 cylinder.

Main bear caps
Connecting Rod caps
Head bolts

Any help would sure be appreciated.
Thanks!
Dave (Ann Arbor, MI)

1929 Chevy engine bolt torques
Posted: 2007-05-23 04:56:49.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
A safe way to torque them would be to follow our article on fasteners and torque in the archives. It mentions that there are general torque specs based on sizes of the fasteners. For instance, 5/8 size main cap nuts would torque to about 80 lb/ft, 1/2 inch size rod caps to 35, etc.

1931 Model A Ford electrical problem(s)
Posted: 2007-05-25 14:18:56.0
Posted by: alldredge
Installed a new Exide 6 volt battery - - -grounded positive cable to body - -hooked negative to starter - -ignition key off - -noticed spark when connectng cables - -smoke emerging from instrument panel- - disconnected- - battery(Pretty quickly!). Checked under hood - -insulation was smoking on both ends of wiring leading from generator to terminal box. Does Model A take a SPECIFIC 6 volt battery?? My generator was overhauled only a week ago. Could that be a factor. If I rewire, is the same thing going to happen? Does any Model A lover out there know any way to troubleshoot things BEFORE I do that? ANY HELP APPRECIATED !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! - -Bob A.

1931 Model A Ford electrical problem(s)
Posted: 2007-05-26 04:05:39.0
Posted by: Les
I'm not familiar with Model A electrical schematics, but are you sure it's a positive ground? If so, the fact that it heated up and smoked says that the battery shorted, which means that the car either was converted to negative ground or the generator is shorting out.
There's no such thing as a specific battery in the sense you're asking. Batteries are batteries and the only consideration for specific cars is the size and amperage capacity.

1931 Model A Ford electrical problem(s)
Posted: 2007-05-26 07:18:25.0
Posted by: alldredge
Les, thanks for replying so soon. Yes, I think the generator is shorting out as you have suggested. I have owned this Model A for about 25 years. The ground is positive. I don't know when Ford changed to a negative ground. Anyway, after Memorial day I'll be taking the generator back to the shop person who repaired it to see about the "short". Bob

powder coat
Posted: 2007-06-04 20:49:57.0
Posted by: oklahoma bob
I'm going to powder coat my 1946 dodge pickup. My question is i will be useing body filler on some fenders and cab. Will the body filler hold up to the 400+ degrees it takes for powder coat to blend

powder coat
Posted: 2007-06-05 05:00:27.0
Posted by: Les
Body filler won't take the powder coating, nor will it perfectly adhere at high temperature. There are fillers that are designed to be used with powder coatings but we've never tried them. You might look at Eastwood's site for info on metalized fillers.

1974 Ford Ranger XLT Resto
Posted: 2007-06-07 15:23:24.0
Posted by: Centarie
I am looking for information on this truck but i cant find any does anyone have any idea where i could maby find some?

1974 Ford Ranger XLT Resto
Posted: 2007-06-08 05:01:09.0
Posted by: Les
Search the internet for forums, owners, parts suppliers and sellers of original sales brochures and shop manuals. Contact a local Ford dealer that's been in business over 35 years and arrange to talk with an older mechanic, parts person or even the owner. Eventually, large amounts of information will come your way.

Fire in intake manifold - what next?
Posted: 2007-06-09 06:34:08.0
Posted by: bruceg
My car had a fire in the intake manifold. We noticed flames coming up from the carb. I gave it a quick shot from a dry chemical fire extinguisher, fire out.

The timing was off, and we pumped the gas to start the car up. I think since there was a lot of fuel in the intake manifold and we got a spark from trying to start it - that that caused the fire.

We checked the carb, and it seems fine. We leaned it out some and checked all the fuel lines. No leaks. The car starts, and I didn't notice a change in oil pressure. The oil is clean. I vacuumed the dry chemicals from off the engine and around the carb.

Question is - some of the stuff must have one gone down the carb since the intake manifold fire was extinguished. Does the engine need to be pulled and rebuilt? Or do the dry chemicals burn off? Will the circulating oil wash it down to the oil pan?

Engine starts fine, idles fine, no difference in oil pressure, engine temp is good. Not sure if I should simply change the oil (in case we do have stuff in the engine from the extinguisher) - or if we are looking at a major rebuild.

It's a cast iron Chevy 350. The extinguisher is a First Alert dry chemical fire extinguisher filled with Foray mono-ammonium phosphate, HMS 1-0-0 (no idea what that is), ammonium sulfate, musovite mica, magnesium aluminum silicate.

Anyone else put out an engine fire? Did you end up with a complete rebuild? Also, are the little hand-held fire extinguishers single use? I'm happy we kept it in the car, and want to make sure we are prepared in case it happens again (although we'll be a LOT more careful about pumping the gas on a poorly tuned, hard-starting car).

Update:
I picked up a timing light and a vacuum gauge today - I'll check timing and vacuum. We replaced the distributor. We lined up TDC by looking at the indicator and the harmonic balancer, we had the rotor pointing to the #1 cylinder. I've read the Chevy 350 likes to run between 6 and 8 degrees BTDC, and I know we are off.

I'll check vacuum as the engine was completely frozen before we got it going - we put Marvel oil in each of the cylinders, let it set for a few weeks, and got it moving by working it with a strap wrench, a little at a time. We haven't done a compression test or checked vacuum yet - so that's top on the list.

Edited on Jun 09, 2007 10:18

Fire in intake manifold - what next?
Posted: 2007-06-09 13:59:48.0
Posted by: jraspberryt
I had a similar situation. It's a good sign that the 350 seems to be running okay. Suggest you run a while and monitor closely. If you notice anything out of the ordinary, rough idle, hesitation, etc. do a compression test. If the comp is good a rebuild will most likely not be needed.

Vapor Lock
Posted: 2007-06-09 09:12:47.0
Posted by: hank
I have a 64 Studebaker with a V8 engine. Can someone explain why it is that older cars vapor lock and new cars do not. Is it a fuel line difference, fuel pump pressure or what? My car is driven almost every day to and from work.

Vapor Lock
Posted: 2007-06-09 14:06:32.0
Posted by: jraspberryt
I experienced vapor locks back in the day when 56 chevy and other V_8's were everywhere and, for the most part, vapor lock comes from heat causing the fuel to "foam" up. Do some homework and you'll find several options to help keep the fuel cool!

Vapor Lock
Posted: 2007-06-09 14:15:42.0
Posted by: hank
Therefore with the fuel in the line a liquid, no foam! Will a restrictor at the carburator keep the liquid head I need. Will insulating the fuel line help?

Vapor Lock
Posted: 2007-06-09 15:05:29.0
Posted by: jraspberryt
What's the normal operating temp of your engine? Is it running hot?

Vapor Lock
Posted: 2007-06-09 15:40:31.0
Posted by: hank
I have a 180 degree stat, gage reads on the high side when running at 65 mph, in traffic will be just as high, I do have an electric fan installed, it helps. I just have never let it go all the way. The engine has had the vapor problem,let it cool and all goes back to normal.

Vapor Lock
Posted: 2007-06-09 16:33:05.0
Posted by: hank
The aluminum radiator is now on the list, will start looking for a supplier. I had ordered but not yet received insulation that I plan to enclose the fuel lines. My routing is not to bad plenty of space. That is why I am going after this problem. This car is a driver, almost every day.How did you set up a cold air intake? May blast the fuel pump, which is just in front of the exhaust maniflod.The cooling system was flushed when the current radiator was recored. I guess I am just having a hard time accepting that this problem can not be addressed! In advance I want to thank you for your replys, I will keep on reading and learning.

Vapor Lock
Posted: 2007-06-09 16:00:52.0
Posted by: jraspberryt
Some probable solutions are to upgrade to a much more efficient aluminum radiator. Check to see if any fuel lines are too close to the exhaust manifold or engine block. If there are, re-route and insulate them.(these can serve to pre-heat the fuel before it gets to the area where the real problem occurs. The intake manifold and carb.
Excess heat at the manifold can cause the fuel to foam or boil as it enters the carb. A one inch spacer between the carb and manifold is what Iv'e used and a cold air intake can help as well. Keep in mind, the colder the air in the intake the better atomization occurs in the manifold and intake valve. This provides for better combustion, fuel economy and performance. One additional point to consider is a cooling system flush.
Older V-8's were not designed to run in conditions that exist on our roads today. If you just cruise on a Saturday night, no big deal, but cranking for a long distance at 65-70 mph or sitting in a traffic jam you're gonna' overheat.

Forum Archives continued on Page 13