Forums Archive - Page 11

electrical system - voltage gauge
Posted: 2007-02-18 18:00:18.0
Posted by: dradile
I have an '85 VW 4 cyl. Quantum that I am trying to keep running as a daily driver. It has 214,000 mi. on it with a new 2.0L engine last year. I want to add some gauges (from an Audi 4000) but I don't really know how a voltage gauge works, what it will tell me, etc. I can probably trace the wires from the gauge back to their source on the donor car, but I guess I need some theory to really use/understand this gauge properly. Thanks in advance!

electrical system - voltage gauge
Posted: 2007-02-20 08:33:21.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Dradile, rather than going into a lengthy discussion, I am going to direct you to www.howstuffworks.com

From there you will be able to find answers to all your questions about electrical theory. I think that will be more helpful than an explanation of voltmeters.

electrical system - voltage gauge
Posted: 2007-02-20 13:21:51.0
Posted by: dradile
Terrific, thank you very much. I looked all over the web without finding anything. I appreciate the help! Dave

1951 F1 Guages
Posted: 2007-02-19 07:27:13.0
Posted by: Tommy H
We are restoring a F1 Pick up. We are changing the charging system to 12 volts negative ground. The F1 originaly was a 6 volt posative ground. Can I get the stock guages to work? Or can I get 12 volt guages that look original? (where?) Thanks

1951 F1 Guages
Posted: 2007-02-19 11:10:55.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Just wire your stock gauges/radio through a 2 OHM, 10 amp dropping resistor. You can buy them from J.C. Whitney. It will provide 6 volts to anything you want.

"41 Chevy ignition switch
Posted: 2007-02-19 12:21:43.0
Posted by: Swaink
I know that what is in my car isn't right.But what should be there? I see an switch and key but I'm told that there was a key and switch on a cable that attaches to a special coil.How was it set up and how would this be connected to start and run the engine and instrumnets I can't find this in a shop manuel. I'm rewiring and I'd like to know how it is to be done correctly ut I've never seen another model of the chevy in my area.

"41 Chevy ignition switch
Posted: 2007-02-19 22:12:37.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Howdy Swaink,

What you are talking about is an armored coil. My '66 Volvo has an armored coil.

Here is a description of yours:
http://chevy.tocmp.com/1949delcoelec/1c1001.htm

Right now on eBay there is a coil for $100. item # 190064096329

But that is only half the parts you will need to take the ignition system back to original. Besides the coil, you will need the armored cable and ignition switch.

There is a porcelain tower coil with the cable and switch very similar to what you need on eBay but it is from a truck. Item # 290084447168

You'd have to research the part numbers to see if the same Delco coil was used on trucks and cars. Odds are good it is the same. Hope that helps.

1924 Dodge 4
Posted: 2007-02-20 01:39:06.0
Posted by: dadsproject
Hi, My dad is restoring a 1924 Dodge 4 and is after some motor specifications. Can anyone help him out?
Thanks.

1924 Dodge 4
Posted: 2007-02-20 08:10:07.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Try the Dodge Brothers Club:
http://www.dodgebrothersclub.org

Converting C-6 to manual
Posted: 2007-02-26 20:39:46.0
Posted by: The_Jeremiah
Hello everyone, im new to the garage, and i have been working on my '78 lincoln for quite some time now. I know its not the most unique looking car around, and its not the oldest either, but i really want to dump the C-6 and bolt in a 4-speed. Does anyone know what manual transmission would work best as a replacement ? i got the monster 460 under the hood, also if anyone has a transmission that would work and want to get rid of, i can come pick it up if its not to far from where i am. thankyou everyone

Converting C-6 to manual
Posted: 2007-02-27 04:02:25.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Installing a manual transmission could be quite a project on your Lincoln, since they weren't made with such a configuration. You'll need to fabricate a clutch system and shifter assembly on the floor, etc, not to mention mounts and brackets. The big-block engines generally could be fitted with Borg Warner 4-speeds, but you should consult a dealership parts person to investigate possibilities. An AOD will most likely fit into your Lincoln easier, but either way let us know what you find out.

C6 tranny wont shift P to D when cold
Posted: 2007-02-26 22:29:09.0
Posted by: veffen
I have a 71 TBird with a 429 and Ford C6 auto tranny. When the car is cold started it will take 5 or 10 minutes before it will leave the spot in Drive. I can reverse straight off, but it makes me wait several miutes before engaging into Drive (I can physically move the gear from P to D but the car doesn't budge). And when she decides to go then it goes rather quick. I have had the tranny oil and filter changed hoping that would help--but it didn't do much--just helped it shift cleaner when driving. Please give me some advice. Thanks !!!

C6 tranny wont shift P to D when cold
Posted: 2007-02-27 03:59:03.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Your problem is most likely in the vacuum modulator or the vacuum lines leading to it. These devices worked great until a vacuum leak occurred in the internal diaphram, after which such symptoms as difficult shifting, fluid leakage into the engine, no engagement, etc., would occur. The modulator is located on the outside of the transmission and the lines can be routed anywhere, but usually on the right side. You'll want to verify that the line is connected securely before replacing the modulator.

Lowering Rear Ends
Posted: 2007-03-01 23:31:58.0
Posted by: dualpoint
Some websites mention lowering truck rear ends, that are leaf spring supported, by just putting on extended rear shackles. Doesn't this throw off the driveshaft to rear end angle too much? This is for a two inch drop.

Lowering Rear Ends
Posted: 2007-03-02 16:45:21.0
Posted by: dualpoint
Yes, that works if your rear end is slung inside, or above the spring, but many trucks are under, or outside the spring. You would have to remove the spring pad on the rear end and re-weld it to the bottom, to lower it. I would think that an even better, and safer way, would be to have the front and rear spring perches raised. I wonder why nobody does this ?

Lowering Rear Ends
Posted: 2007-03-02 11:03:53.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
The proper way to lower or raise bodies with rear leaf springs is to use lowering blocks. They come in various heights and aren't expensive. They fit right under the leaf mounting pads on the axle housing.

Lowering Rear Ends
Posted: 2007-03-02 19:07:05.0
Posted by: dualpoint
Just found some front perches for lowering, Aim industries has them. With these and longer shackles it will work. As Roseanna Roseannadanna used to say Neverrrrrmiiiiiind.

Brake lines
Posted: 2007-03-05 09:01:09.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Howdy all,

I need some information about brake lines. I am helping a young man rebuild a car that sat for 20 years. We bought some brake line from one of the chain auto parts stores. The line was tagged, "25' Steel Brake Line". I ain't a rocket scientist but I know that steel shouldn't look like copper when it is flared. This line has a distinct copper color inside the tube; the outside looks like steel.

Is this an alloy? What is the purpose?

Regards,

Shannon DeWolfe

Brake lines
Posted: 2007-03-06 04:21:45.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Your brake line is made of an alloy to allow it to be shaped and flared. With the exception of stainless steel lines (which we find to be difficult to work with and brittle) all modern brake lines are made this way. Don't be concerned about it, as it should be more than capable of holding the pressure. As long as the flared connnections are tight you should be good to go.

Brake lines
Posted: 2007-03-06 10:52:21.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Thanks, Staff. I thought as much but was a bit surprised to see the copper color.

Late model rims that fit a 35 Ford
Posted: 2007-03-07 09:46:16.0
Posted by: johnc35ford
Can any one tell me what late model rims fit a 1935 Ford coupe with original drive train.

Late model rims that fit a 35 Ford
Posted: 2007-03-10 09:48:44.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Howdy,

The best I can determine, you've got either 5x5 1/2 or wide 5 wheels. The wide five would be very obvious. See the table on this page for other applications that use the 5x5 1/2:

http://www.roddingroundtable.com/tech/articles/boltpat.html

Don't forget that those wheels and tires would have been very narrow by modern standards. Check your backspacing needs before you go wheel shopping.

Here is an interesting discussion about Ford wheels:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=115542

Well, it was interesting to me anyway. I hope that helps you some. I have no direct knowledge of your car.

1979 f150 idle speed is not constant
Posted: 2007-03-18 05:13:32.0
Posted by: Tony
I just bought a 1979 F150 4 spd, 300 cid, 4x4 for daily driving. The truck starts and runs well but it seems like the idle speed isn't constant even after warm up. It seems to change every few seconds idling at a slower speed for 2 or 3 seconds then a little faster for 2 or 3 seconds then back to the slower idle speed again. It's not a real big deal but kind of bugs me so I'm wondering if someone can tell me how to trouble shoot this? Is it possibly a vacuum leak or a carburator issue or? Any help would be appreciated.

1979 f150 idle speed is not constant
Posted: 2007-05-25 15:30:21.0
Posted by: jraspberryt
Hey, Tony. There's an excellent article in the Second Chance Garage's web site on the use of a vacuum gage. Go to the home page "how to" section. The vacuum gage can be used to great effect in finding out where your idle gremlin is hiding.

1979 f150 idle speed is not constant
Posted: 2007-03-26 20:52:39.0
Posted by: The_Jeremiah
hi there tony, that could be many reasons, if the person before you lowered the idle speed on the carb. to save gas, then that could be the reason, also if your carb is dirty it will cause it to run choppy, just spray some carb cleaner in the ol' thing. but it is a 79, so it has plenty of vaccum lines, so i wouldnt be surprised if it was a line, take your air cleaner off the engine and set it aside, and check the length of the vaccum lines running to the carburator, and the vaccum lines coming out of the manifold, those are notorious for breaks, and almost always are the problem. o and dont forget to check the back of the carburator, im not totally familiar with your model of pickup, but there could be a couple vaccum lines coming off of the back of the carb. that could be disconencted, or broke. hope you get your truck fixed, good luck

Fuel pump rebuild procedure
Posted: 2007-03-26 10:41:30.0
Posted by: Tony
Well, spring is here and rather than trust a leaky fuel pump to get me through another year I've ordered a rebuild kit. The kit hasn't arrived yet but I suspect that when it does it won't include any instructions so I'm wondering if anyone knows of a source of fuel pump rebuild instructions or at least tips (hopefully online). Thanks in advance. -Tony

Fuel pump rebuild procedure
Posted: 2007-03-27 14:03:04.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Tony,

You don't say what kind of pump you have. While most every mechanical pump works pretty much the same, each pump will have it's own requirements. Here is a link to a really good article on Mustang Monthly magazine's website on rebuilding a Carter pump:
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/20438/

There may be more information online but I haven't seen it. Good luck on your spring time project.

Fuel pump rebuild procedure
Posted: 2007-03-27 14:27:17.0
Posted by: Tony
Thanks for the link. Although it's a different pump there are probably more similarities than differences between it and the pump that I'm rebuilding. Mine is for a 55 ford truck with a 239 CID 8 in it. I believe that my pump also generates vacuum used to operate the wipers which may (or may not) make the job a little more involved.

Forum Archives continued on Page 12