SCG Classic Car Forums Archive

mold and moisture removal ? 68 impala
Posted: 2007-01-31 22:22:56.0
Posted by: v1d9uy
i have a very original 68 impala with very very low miles but there is moisture forming in the car and there is mold now on the carpet and the rear deck is all bubbly and the right rear side panel is starting to come down first how do i remove the moisture from the car ? then how do i get the mold out ? and last how do i stop the car from condensing moisture so much it never used to do that

mold and moisture removal ? 68 impala
Posted: 2007-02-01 11:41:49.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Howdy,

Moisture is likely entering around the back glass. I have never owned a '68 but I've seen several that friends have owned and most of them leaked around the back glass.

Usually there is rust hidden under the surround and gasket for the back glass. It won't be inexpensive to repair but the damage it can cause if not repaired is even more costly.

You say you've got mold. The only way I know of to rid the car of mold is to remove the molded materials. I don't think you can reuse any interior piece that has been wet for a long period of time.

You will have to pull all the wet panels, carpet, and upholstery out of the car to get it dry again. You can assess the mold damage better once you have the pieces out of the car.

After the soft materials that are molded have been removed you can scrub the interior of the car thoroughly with Borax and any of the bathroom mold and mildew products on the market to try to kill the "hidden" mold. Let the car dry thoroughly before trying to renew the interior. And, if he leak is not found and fixed, the damage will happen again.

There may be a less expensive way to rid upholstery of mold but I am unaware of any other alternative.

Regards,

Shannon DeWolfe

mold and moisture removal ? 68 impala
Posted: 2007-02-01 12:29:09.0
Posted by: v1d9uy
thank you so much for the info your right about the rear glass .. there is a small part in the corner of the glass where i can start to see rust. so i guess im taking the window out getting new rubber then fixing the rust and reinstalling also replacing the carpet.

1955 Buick Special
Posted: 2007-02-01 07:47:00.0
Posted by: Chryco_guy
Im looking for a specs list by serial number for 1955 Buick engines 284 and 322 V/8's. Is there one on this site or where could I find it. New to this site and its a great site to know. Thanks

1955 Buick Special
Posted: 2007-02-01 11:06:15.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Chryco_guy,

There is a list of engine specifications here on Second Chance Garage:
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/467.cfm

But the database doesn't outline serial numbers.

There is a preview of a databook on books.google.com. Go to the google search engine and click the "more" link. One of the links is Google Books. Type this phrase into the search box:

1955 buick engine vin

On the page that returns the first link is to the Ultimate American V-8 Engine Data Book. It just happens that the 1955 Buick numbers are part of the preview pages.

It looks like -5 is a Super, -6 Century, and -7 a Roadmaster application.

That tells you the car but not the displacement. On the next page in the databook it appears that all 264 cid engines were 2 bbl and all 322 cid were 4 bbl. I don't know this for a fact, only what I can glean from the blurry previews of the book. Hope that helps some.

Regards,

Shannon DeWolfe

Yenko Clone Opinions Needed
Posted: 2007-02-01 12:49:05.0
Posted by: IDS_Bill
Hello,

I am working a 1967 Yenko Camaro Clone and am wondering about the motor. Now, they came with the L72 427 and I am wondering - how much do you really think I should worry about date coding of the block. I can get correctly coded motors - for $5000+ more but I am wondering if, in the end, it will be worth it as it is a clone. I will sell it some day but do you think it would be worth the investment?

Thanks for any info,

Bill

Yenko Clone Opinions Needed
Posted: 2007-02-03 05:35:17.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
If you're building a clone it really wouldn't matter significantly if the engine is date-coded. An original car would be worth more with the factory or date-coded engine, but a clone is a clone. Prospective buyers generally wouldn't care very much as long as the car looks and operates as the originals did. We wouldn't spend a lot of money for the date-coded blocks.

Overheating ...
Posted: 2007-02-01 13:14:12.0
Posted by: Johnl
I inherited a 1955 1st Series Chevy pickup. I dismantled the engine and the block was checked for cracks and bored (I don't remember how much.) The head was reconditioned with new valves and guides.

I put it together and it runs fine, just overheats within the first 10 minutes of starting. When the temp goes beyond the thermostat temperature, I can see large bubbles coming out of the radiator when I take the cap off.

I thought maybe a bad head gasket, so I replaced that without any change.

What would be the next logical step here? Disassemble the engine and have the block magnafluxed?

Overheating ...
Posted: 2007-02-01 13:21:01.0
Posted by: werace
Bubbles or air pocket in the system. Try and run it with Cap Off or at least loose and with the front Bumper Higher then the rear of the car. It's like burping it. Also your timing could be off and that will cause overheating. Wrong plugs also. Good Luck.

transmission
Posted: 2007-02-05 12:05:23.0
Posted by: firemedic
I am looking for manuel transmission parts for a 1958 ford custom 300 with a 223 inline 6. I am looking for parts or a whole transmission that would fit my car.

Thanks

transmission
Posted: 2007-03-10 06:05:54.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Howdy,

I cannot vouch for this pay-for-use web site but it looks cool. For a relatively small fee they will do the parts search for you. I just stumbled on the web site; I haven't used the service.

http://www.classiccarpartsfinder.com/

'55 T-Bird Value
Posted: 2007-02-05 18:44:57.0
Posted by: tbird
What is your opinion on the Value of a '55 Bird, restored to it's original condition in every way but the color. I am looking at painting mine Raven Black as opposed to the thunderbird blue that it originally came in. Thanks.

'55 T-Bird Value
Posted: 2007-02-06 03:32:44.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We don't think the overall value of a restored car differs significantly when its original color is changed, assuming the new color is similar to those offered at the time the car was built. Only the most "purist" of buyers would be persnickity about having the as-built color. Today, even museum-quality cars are being painted in modern base-clear or catalyzed enamel finishes which, even though the color might be correct, didn't exist at the time the car was built. We believe people should paint the cars the colors they like.

'55 T-Bird Value
Posted: 2007-05-25 15:47:54.0
Posted by: jraspberryt
Truer words were never spoken. Paint the color you want. Just make sure it's a really clean and complete job. A bad job of any color can cost you thousands in value.

Dual Stage Fuel Pumps
Posted: 2007-02-06 05:42:21.0
Posted by: longshot
I have a 1953 Chevy P.U. that I recently aquired. It has a 235 engine in line 6. In changing the fuel pump, I ordered and receive what I am discovering is a dual stage fuel pump. The old pump it had is a single stage. Prior owner seemed to by pass the air line to the wipers. Looking all over the internet to see if there is a diagram of installing back the air lines to the bottom of the dual stage fuel pump. There are two holes at the bottm of this fuel pump and I am imagining that they are for the air lines. But which is the intake or outlet? I followed the present air line path and it seems to be connected to the block right under the carburator.

Dual Stage Fuel Pumps
Posted: 2007-02-17 01:36:35.0
Posted by: sdewolfe
Longshot,

Take a look over at Old Online Chevy pages. I found a great explanation of the fuel and vacuum pump:
http://chevy.tocmp.com/1949_53shop/06engine/6_089.HTM. It includes a description of the inlet and outlet sides. If you find their pages useful, they take donations. ;-)

I didn't see a vacuum diagram but I didn't look very hard either. Hope that helps some.

Studebaker Avanti
Posted: 2007-02-06 11:14:05.0
Posted by: tossorio
I am putting a Studebaker Avanti body on the chassis this weekend. My father in law removed it and he died last week. I am ready to put it back on. I have not done this before. Anything I need to be careful about?

Studebaker Avanti
Posted: 2007-02-19 11:14:28.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Read our article on putting the T-Bird body back on the frame. The only big things you need to know are to make sure the body is hung from 4 points to spread the load and to have a way of lowering it very, very slowly. Having a couple friends on hand to guide it is necessary, as is making sure the frame is ready and you haven't forgotten to tighten any bolts.

Youngster seeking a Roadster - 1970 Mustang Mach 1
Posted: 2007-02-09 20:35:11.0
Posted by: bblakeney
Hey guys, I'm new at the Garage, as well as the world of car restoration. To be perfectly frank, my real passion is driving. Just getting behind the wheel and going fast, hugging the turns, loud rock and roll on the speakers... You know what I mean.

But I need the right vehicle to really get down and do that, and my knowledge of cars doesn't match my knowledge of the bootleg turn, or the Scandinavian flick, or...

I've been thinking long and hard about which ride I'd like to get behind the wheel of, and I was initially thinking the Javelin, one of the ponies from 1970 or so. But then I saw a Mach 1, restored to a point where it looked like it rolled off heaven's assembly line. Of course, it had a $15,000 price tag on it, which is a bit out of my price range.

Also, as I've never driven one, I don't know how I'd feel stepping behind one. My questions are as follows:

1.) Has anybody around here ever driven one? Thoughts, concerns, drawbacks? If it rolls when you're cornering, it's no good for me, but similarly if it lacks the power to go how I'd like to go, well, that's a shame too.

2.) Does anybody know what I'm looking at spending? I feel naive saying I couldn't afford the $15,000, but hey, that's the way the cards have been dealt for now.

3.) Anybody have notions as to a parts list for the car, or what a good place to get started would be? I've got practically no automotive studies under my belt, so if anybody's got some idea where an eager kid can learn to get his hands dirty, please let me know.

Thanks a bunch for reading. I hope to be a part of these forums both as a contributor and a reader, but for now I suppose I'll be the latter. If you've got any extra info for me, please don't hesitate to e-mail me at bblakeney at gmail dot com.

Thanks again,

--Buster


Edited on Feb 09, 2007 20:35

Youngster seeking a Roadster - 1970 Mustang Mach 1
Posted: 2007-02-26 20:44:39.0
Posted by: The_Jeremiah
i personally havent been in a mach 1, but i can offer you this, if your looking for a car that hugs corners nicely and goes fast, i have very thoroughly driven a 1970 chevelle. that car has the best power steering i have ever felt, and the suspensions in them are outstanding. you can take a sharp corner at any speed and you will just feel comfertable

88 Eagle Premier unibody
Posted: 2007-02-15 12:28:05.0
Posted by: Delsorou
I realise that my project car is not quite the same era as most around here, but I've found this site very useful nonetheless. Upholstry and paint are upholstry and paint on any year.

My particular project has some minor front end damage. It's a unibody frame design, and I just dropped it off at a body shop who will pull the major dings out of it for me. I wondered if anyone had some tips on how to go about removing all of the remaining imperfections - crumpling, slight shearing and the like. The sections in question sustained a side impact followed by a front impact, so they're crumpled significantly from their original shape.

88 Eagle Premier unibody
Posted: 2007-02-19 11:12:15.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
Basically, you'll want to get a set of body hammers/dollies and tap your way to straight metal. Be patient and keep working at the shape until you can file the surface smooth and use as little bondo as possible.

Early sixties Ford V8s
Posted: 2007-02-18 09:47:57.0
Posted by: Deaner55
Which is the better V8 engine to chose when installing a rebuilt short block into a 1963 Ford the 352 or the 390?

Early sixties Ford V8s
Posted: 2007-02-19 03:44:06.0
Posted by: SCG Staff
We'd choose the 390. These engines had bags of torque and ran very reliably. They seem to get 10 mpg no matter what model they are in or how they are driven.

Forum Archives continued on Page 11