CAR RESTORATION HOW TO
How To Install a Padded Dash
Our '55 T-Bird restoration project is moving along well, but weather (humid, summer weather that is) prevented us from spraying the body with urethane primer. Since we had the time, and some free space in our inside workshop, we
thought we'd show you how to stretch new vinyl and padding onto a dash. This can be a troublesome project, so we approached it with patience and forethought. Here's how it's done.
Dash Prep
We had stripped, sanded and painted the bottom of the dash at the same time we'd painted all the other (white) interior trim pieces. The original paint on the top of the dash was in very good condition so, since it would be covered in vinyl, we sanded it smooth rather than waste paint.
Next, we laid the new vinyl cover over the dash to determine how much extra material was available for stretching tools (hands, mostly) to grab. The next step was a careful masking of the fresh painted area with thick plastic sheeting. This would protect it from scratches and glue residue.
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| The dash bottom, ash tray, glove box and gauge cluster console are painted and ready for the next steps. |
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| It's always a good idea to check whether your material will fit so that you can be confident during the working stages. |
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| The foam is laid carefully onto the glued surface so that no wrinkles are left. |
Let's Cover The Dash!
Thunderbird dashes were vinyl covered originally, but the vinyl wasn't padded. Instead, the factory simply glued the material right onto the metal. We wanted a more tactile feel (and softer look) for our dash, so we next installed a thin, medium-density foam pad over the metal using spray contact cement. Although the foam was only 1/4" thick it would make a world of difference.
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| We laid the foam a small amount at a time to keep the surface from bunching up as the glue grabbed it. |
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| The finished foam covering is smoothed out and all instrument/latch/fixture holes are cut out with a razor blade. |
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| Clamping the vinyl in place shows where the trouble spots will be. |
We then placed our vinyl covering over the dash and stretched it from side to side, fastening it at each end with paper clips. No glue was used at this time, however, as we wanted to see how it would fit over the gauge areas and around the "end wings" of the dash. We could see that the material would bunch-up in those areas, so that meant we'd have to do some careful stretching to get the material to lay flat.
We laid the vinyl upside-down at the lower front lip of the dash and sprayed a thin (about 2 inches wide) line of glue onto it and the mating area of the foam cover. We chose the lower lip area to start because it's the straightest, flattest area of the dash.
From this point we moved in 4-inch sections, gluing, stretching and adhering the vinyl as we went. Doing so gave us the ability to lift and relocate the material if wrinkles appeared, which - of course - they inevitably do.
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| The glue is cured and we're ready to stick the surfaces together, but only after stretching the vinyl a bit from end to end. |
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