Second Chance Garage
All About Car Restoration
Second Chance Garage
All About Car Restoration


SCG Classic Car Troubleshooting Checklist — Battery Problems

Batteries can fail due to inadequate charging, electrolyte chemical imbalances, shorts, age and a host of other things, but there are some general ways to check out major problems.

Ideally, you want to check a battery's individual cells using a hydrometer. Density of the fluid varies as a function of charge, so the hydrometer's readings can be extremely informative. A reading of 1.270 indicates a fully-charged battery, whereas one of 1.175 indicates a low charge.

Contrary to popular belief, most batteries can be opened up to reveal the cells. Do so carefully and don't have any open flames near the cells, since they produce hydrogen gas.

Another check of battery condition can be through the use of a voltmeter. The meter can show the state of charge, of course, typically showing about 12.5 volts or 6.5 volts for those respective systems. If a meter reads less than 9 volts or 5 volts with no loads on the battery, it is probably undercharged.

Next, engage the starter with the meter connected to the battery. If, on 12-volt systems, the meter reads less than 9 volts during this period the battery is undercharged. The same test can be made by turning on the headlights, but the voltage drop won't be as large. In this case a reading below 10.5 volts would be of concern.

During charging, voltmeter readings can quickly show if the alternator or generator is working correctly. Alternator-equipped cars will show voltage readings of 14.5 or slightly higher, while generator-equipped cars will show about one volt less (such cars must have their engines revved to at least 1500 rpm or generators will not begin to charge.)

Individual cells can be read with voltmeters, but doing so exposes the metal tips of the leads to acid. They must be neutralized and cleaned immediately to prevent corrosion.

Low Specific Gravity Readings

  1. The battery is in a low state of charge
  2. Acid has leaked out through cracks (this should be obvious)
  3. Plates are fatigued inside and have absorbed acid
  4. Acid accumulation on top of battery case has created electrical leak and drained battery
  5. Short circuit in car wiring or electrical leak to ground in generator or alternator

Low Current Capacity (slow cranking, dim lights)

  1. Low fluid level
  2. Plates fatigued due to age
  3. Battery continually overcharging during driving due to faulty regulator
  4. Battery is too small for vehicle in which it is installed

Individual Cell Readings Low

  1. Low state of overall charge
  2. Plates are shorted due to precipitate formation at bottom of battery
  3. Low fluid level in particular cell

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