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1955 THUNDERBIRD RESTORATION PROJECT

T-Bird Project Part 11 - We Build a New Steering System

While there are many "upsides" to changing an old, unsophisticated, sloppy front suspension to a modern one, there are a few "downsides."

Obviously, you have to contend with all the intricacies of cutting/welding frame members to accommodate the new suspension, but we accomplished that previously without resorting to slashing our wrists. That left us with only two major "downsides." First, we would have to re-engineer the radiator support - and the radiator itself, for that matter - and that will be the subject of a future article. Second, we had to create a way to steer the car!

The new steering rack, with all its inherent advantages, would just sit there and occupy space unless we figured out a way to modify the old steering system to mate with it. After all, we removed and discarded its worm-gear steering box, Pitman arm and linkages, so all we were left with was the steering column and central shaft. Since there was no turning back, it was time to cut.

The end of the steering rack now points upward and just clears the lower radiator hose
The end of the steering rack now points upward and just clears the lower radiator hose

After measuring we found that the steering column came down at a horizontal (approximate) angle of 20 degrees to the centerline of the rack's shaft and a vertical drop of eight inches, which translated to an angle of 25 degrees. Both measurements were made from where the column exits the firewall, since common practice in designing steering linkages is "the longer the better." The reason: the longer the distance the less acute the angles, hence the least number of u-joints and less need for an intermediate bearing support. By the way, three u-joints automatically dictate the use of a center bearing support, so you want to shoot for only two.

Our measurements showed that two u-joints would easily accommodate the angles. All we'd need to do, therefore, would be to find a suitable linkage system and modify the steering column to accept it. As luck would have it, a Mustang II steering linkage came up on Ebay and since we knew it would fit the steering rack we bought it. Meanwhile, we turned our attention to the column.

Here's the original column, assembled as it would be in the car.
Here's the original column, assembled as it would be in the car.

It Hurts To Chop Up Stuff, But...

We cut the outer shell of the steering column to just enter the engine bay showing a few inches.

The column shell is being trimmed.
The column shell is being trimmed.
The steering shaft with its upper bearing.
The steering shaft with its upper bearing.

We then looked around for a suitable bearing retainer for the [new] column bottom so that the inner shaft would be carried at both ends. An old shock absorber eye-end proved to be a good candidate, so we machined out enough of the inner diameter to create an interference-fit for the bearing's outer race.

This old shock absorber eye is just the right size and thickness for our needs.
This old shock absorber eye is just the right size and thickness for our needs.
After machining, the new part is now ready for welding into place.
After machining, the new part is now ready for welding into place.
The new bearing is pressed onto the column at the top. Its twin is poised for insertion of the shaft at the new fitting on the bottom end.
The new bearing is pressed onto the column at the top. Its twin is poised for insertion of the shaft at the new fitting on the bottom end.
Here's a nifty way to press a bearing onto a long shaft. All you need is the right diameter piece of scrap pipe and some gentle tapping.
Here's a nifty way to press a bearing onto a long shaft. All you need is the right diameter piece of scrap pipe and some gentle tapping.

T-Bird Project Part 11 continued on page 2




 

 

 

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