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DRIVER'S SEAT

Metal is Metal...

The other day I was in the garage, with the door open. I was deep in the throws of welding new (repro) exterior sheet metal to the left rear panel of the T-Bird, when a neighbor walked up. He could see the exposed inner wheel lining and noticed that it was comprised of sheet metal that had slits cut in to allow bending to the proper radius. It was clear, even to him, that the original inner wheel's sheet metal had rusted away (parts were still there and could be torn out by hand) and been replaced by the hand-bent new material some time in the past.

He asked why I wasn't going to remove the "incorrect" metal and weld in the "proper" piece. I responded that the new metal was welded in very well and that it was intact, although I would be welding the slits to strengthen and prevent moisture infiltration. There was no need, therefore, to replace the metal.

He agreed that the work was structurally correct, but asked why, if I was going to the trouble to restore the entire car to a like-new condition, wouldn't I use the same panels that Ford had used? That was a good question.

My answer was two-fold. First, I said that I didn't feel the need to use the exact replacement panels (assuming they were available) for areas of the car that wouldn't be seen. Secondly, there was the consideration of the cost of new panels and the time required to weld them in properly. I just didn't feel it was necessary.

My neighbor was satisfied with the answer, but there are many who wouldn't be. A lot of restorers feel compelled to use only exact replacement panels (inner and outer) and even go to the lengths of having unavailable panels made up by sheet metal fabrication shops. Obviously, such materials are expensive to procure and install, and this should be mentioned when selling the vehicle later on.

On the other hand, as long as you use the same gauge metal and weld it in properly to maintain the car's structural integrity, how many people really care if it is an exact replacement for the original? The point, I believe, is to remove all rust and replace weak metal with new, strong metal, however generic that metal might be. I'd rather spend the money on a planishing hammer and English wheel (to shape metal for most any application) than on repro or NOS inside panels.

Originality, at least to that extent, just isn't important to me, any more than is maintaining a 6-volt electrical system or using old 4-ply tires. That's not to say I'm right and everyone else is wrong, however. What I'm saying is that you should build the car to suit yourself and not the next owner. When it comes time to sell the car your photo album will make it clear to the prospective buyer what work you did and how well you did it.




 

 

 

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