Photo 70 — Overall view of our new trunk fitted onto the rack. Comparing Photo 18 and this one, the distance between the top of the trunk and the body molding is slightly higher, but the overall size of the vehicle easily "absorbs" this height and it fits well on the rack. Conclusion; a project trunk that is show worthy.
While not used on this project, leather corners can be formed by immersing the oversized thick leather in near-boiling water for 15 minutes and temporarily stretching & tacking it over a preformed wooden shape and allowed to dry over several days. Frank Chervan offers small nickel head nails perfect for nailing these leather corners. Finally, the inside finish could be either paper or cloth covering. The green and pattern print selected for this trunk is of the 1930's style and the colors were chosen to compliment the exterior and interior colors.
When mounting the trunk to the car an aluminum plate is added to the underside of the trunk. This is a simple period correct method to provide protection against road dirt, insects, water, etc. from penetrating the underside of the trunk. Another material that could have been used is tin. It has folded edges to provide a crisp appearance to the outside edge. It is nailed on to the bottom using small 1/2 inch long upholstery nails along the edges and corners. You fit the plate by simply centering it on the bottom. The edges should fit snuggly to the side of the trunk.
Classic Car Accessory Trunks: Designing and Fabricating your Own Trunk - Part 1
Classic Car Accessory Trunks: Designing and Fabricating your Own Trunk - Part 2
How to Replace the Trunk Handle on your 1948 Pontiac Streamliner
Upholstery 101: Part 2 - Re-Covering Seats
Resto-Mod Restorations: Part 9 - Trunk Restoration